Finished up the rebuilt and CV axles and install, Hopefully the car is all set to smog at 9am tomorrow.
Location: sacramento
Posts: 1,415
My VIN: 1768
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Finished up the rebuilt and CV axles and install, Hopefully the car is all set to smog at 9am tomorrow.
Learned that watching a couple of biplanes and walking around the car without fascias is dangerous. More blood on the car. I'm getting close to her first fire-up with the new exhaust. I've had to remind myself to slow down and pay attention so I don't screw anything up...or injure myself again.
Red
VIN 4534
Born - October 1981
Brought back to life - July 2011
Completed my spring and shock replacement for rear left today/tonight, but when I re-torqued both control arms to suit the lowered height I found inner upper bar INSANELY tight... once I finally cracked it free one of its washers disintegrated into a couple of pieces. Given it is now the early hours of Sunday morning I'm stuck at 99.9% until I can get replacements in the morning
Chris
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Here you go, then.
kenny.jpg
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
That'd be perfect if we were still on speaking terms
Red
VIN 4534
Born - October 1981
Brought back to life - July 2011
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
...re-attached the passenger-side rear trim panel, and was prevented from replacing the driver-side rear trim panel by the discovery that the bracket which holds the engine cover release handle is held on my two rivets, one of which was long broken and the other of which broke when I removed the trim panel. Huzzah.
The rivets pass right into the wheel well, so I took of one of the rear wheels for the first time. While I was there I thought about the parking brake, but decided against trying to fix it for now.
SANY0739.jpg
Those dark patches on the frame and trailing arm are smooth to the touch and shiny. I exposed more of it simply by rubbing my finger on the trailing arm. I thought DeLorean frames were supposed to be grey. Mine is black everywhere. What gives?
Anyway, my drill ran out of juice so I stopped with the rivet-drilling. Just because it helped me feel better, I put the car back down on four wheels and washed it. It looks a lot more roadworthy now, although a closer inspection would reveal otherwise...
Oh, I also ran a new wire to the choke heater, eliminating a quick-splice. I have learned that quick-splice connectors are evil.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
With Clint's help, we finished disconnecting a few things and pulled the motor and transmission. Removed the transmission and inspected the clutch. Looks perfect, which is good news after the slipping scare last month. Clint removed the valve covers, timing cover, oil pan and lower girdle while I replaced more coolant hoses and wire wheeled all the bolts he removed to ensure easy and clean seals. Removed all the old gasket materials with a sweet 3M abrasive bristle wheel. The oil pan really put up a fight and required an emergency blowtorch purchase. We re-sealed the girdle to the block, installed a new rear main seal and sealed the rear main plate to the motor. Got the oil pan seal installed and the pan reattached, but we're waiting til tomorrow to torque it down.
Tomorrow we will finish the oil pan, do the timing cover and valve covers then put the lump back in. Hopefully no leaks this time.
Anyone else notice how woefully incomplete the workshop manual is when it comes to torque figures?
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log