FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
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Thread: What have you done to your DeLorean today?

  1. #2341
    Aussie Member Tillsy's Avatar
    Join Date:  Feb 2012

    Location:  Adelaide

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    That's awesome Farrar - I've already made use of that.

    Michael as the others have mentioned, I'm GMT+9.5

    Minutes away from Monday morning and have just finished the last wheel, so whole suspension overhaul finally finished! Bit late to take her out for a spin though so enjoying a scotch instead and will go for a cruise tomorrow night after work and kids asleep
    Chris

  2. #2342
    Motors about after dark Michael's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    4,784

    My VIN:    Banged your VIN'S mom

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    Here you go, then.

    Attachment 19245
    Ha!!!! good one!
    http://dmctalk.org/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=90&dateline=161808992  9

  3. #2343
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    4,026

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    I have learned that quick-splice connectors are evil.
    Welcome to the club. I've been preaching that since they were invented in the 70's.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  4. #2344
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

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    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    The good: reassembled the motor, mated up the transmission, dropped it back in and it fired up with a perfect no-hunt idle (save for a bracket adjustment that I still need to do) on the first turn of the key.

    The bad: the oil leaks are worse than ever and I'm at the end of my rope with the thing.
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, March 2011 to present
    full and detailed photo restoration log

  5. #2345
    Aussie Member Tillsy's Avatar
    Join Date:  Feb 2012

    Location:  Adelaide

    Posts:    943

    My VIN:    6679

    Took her out for a shakedown cruise, then put away what felt like half a million tools scattered all over my garage...
    Chris

  6. #2346
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

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    Put the rear of the car in the air and took the left wheel off. I decided to have a look around.

    I've never looked on the inside of the wheels before. Kind of cool -- now I know exactly when the wheels were manufactured: June 8, 1981.

    SANY0731.jpg

    I tried adjusting the parking brake -- but when I engaged the handle, nothing moved, so I "un-adjusted" it and decided that the problem must be that the cable has become disconnected.

    SANY0738.jpg

    The rear pads look kind of rough, but there's plenty of material on them.

    SANY0758.jpg

    Still curious about the rough texture of my frame and trailing arms; the rough stuff comes off when I rub it with my fingers, exposing a smooth, black finish underneath. Anyone seen this before?

    SANY0739.jpg

    The real reason for taking the wheel off: re-attaching the engine cover release handle bracket. I eventually got around to this after nosing around in the area. After drilling out the rivets with a 5/32" bit, putting the new ones in was fairly straightforward: I poked a nail through one of the holes and had my better half place the bracket over it, then had her hold the bracket in place while I installed the rivet. After that, I could finish it on my own. When I got the car the bracket was held on only by one rivet and swivelled around on it, so this is a definite improvement.

    SANY0756.jpg

    That exhaust is pretty rusty. Fortunately, there are better options out there now.

    SANY0740.jpg

    The puddle underneath the car smells like gear oil, so I looked around with a lantern (just call me Diogenes) and it looks like the passenger-side output flange seal has failed. But that will be another project for another day -- right now I need to get the interior of the car back together electrically, so I can re-charge the air conditioning system and get the car closer to being put back on the streets again.

  7. #2347
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

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    Quote Originally Posted by jawn101 View Post
    The good: reassembled the motor, mated up the transmission, dropped it back in and it fired up with a perfect no-hunt idle (save for a bracket adjustment that I still need to do) on the first turn of the key.

    The bad: the oil leaks are worse than ever and I'm at the end of my rope with the thing.
    How did you go about sealing the gaskets? I never rely on just the paper gasket. What are the source points of the leaks now?
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  8. #2348
    Nothing witty here lest it offend
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    990

    .

    A weekend of trouble free motoring after the FR wheel bearing was replaced. GF rode in it for the first time. Says it smells like an old car. She's right.

  9. #2349
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,408

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    How did you go about sealing the gaskets? I never rely on just the paper gasket. What are the source points of the leaks now?
    Ugh... Too much to type here but I did weeks of research with Josh and Dave S. Had all the right chemicals and sealants handy and used only the gaskets prescribed by those guys. We followed the directions I was given but it must be down to technique or something. The oil pan gasket seems to be the most troublesome. It was squeezing out excessively at the torque figures given in the manual. Had sealant on both sides and on the threads of every bolt but is still leaking.
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, March 2011 to present
    full and detailed photo restoration log

  10. #2350
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    4,026

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Well that's a bummer. I'm pretty sure a FULL capacity Oil fill is above the gasket seam. The must be why the factory GLUED the gasket on. Same issue with the Transmission drive flanges. The Gear oil level is 2/3rds up on the seal. No wonder they leak so easily just sitting. Did you use an anaerobic sealer on the gasket?
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

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