Posts: 4,807
My VIN: 3937
I found this really great clock at a flea market on the weekend... and it keeps excellent time!!
IMG_4698.jpg
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
I finally got my car out for spring...5 minutes into my drive I hear a strange grinding noise, belts slipping, and the voltage gauge is reading low. After a few tests it turns out my alternator is toast. I'd been meaning to replace it anyway since my cars PO installed one of Hervy's 140A alternators. At idle speed the output was sketchy and headlights would dim slightly. I plan to clean up the grounds and install one of DMCH's 120A alternators.
Took our the throttle cable and cleaned and lubed it. Cleaned the inside of the cable tubing and cleaned the spool, microswitch and throttle assembly. Car has no resistance now with the pedal and is as smooth as butter cant believe how much better it is. Meanwhile my porsche 924's brakes completely died so I will have to find time somehow to install a new master cylinder=/
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 158
My VIN: 10322
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
I replaced the fuse for the cigarette lighter. It apparently blew at some point. The past couple of weeks I was able to get the clock (on the same circuits) going by wiggling the phone charger. I'm especially confused now how that worked. I assumed the lighter was corroded to the point that it broke the circuitry but it was a fuse.
Does anyone know why there was some sort of grease inside the fuse plugs? It looked real black so I'm positive that DMCMW put it there.
Edit: Nevermind! I googled "electric grease".
http://www.artgemsjewelers.com/
Fine Geek Jewelry.
If the above post was DeLorean related it should be noted that I don't know what I'm talking about.
Tumblr: Going88 || Instagram: Going.88
On the spool in th eengine bay is a single nut and bolt which holds the cable in place. The spool is closeest to you, only thing that looks like a spool in the engine bay. Once you remove that nut and bolt, you can look down and see the sheath it goes into. So after that go under the dash under the steering wheel to your accelerator pedal. at the top of the pedal is where the cable connects just slowly pull it out. Wipe the whole thing down good and use any cleaner you like on it. I then just used warm water and a clear tube ( to extend it so i can drip the water into the sheath, to get as much warm water into it as i could. I then used a bottle of cda ( keyboard cleaner im broke). to connect it to the tube and blow the air out so the air comes travels through and sprays the water out down near your pedal. Once i was getting clear water i just used a light lubricant . i got it from autozone just basic lubricant in a spray can. ill try to post a photo. I then sprayed the cleaner all over the spool and any part connected to it IE the springs and wiped them off clean. After Re inserted the cable starting from above where it connects to the pedal. Then you while keep the cable tight tight and put the bolt you took off on the spool back on. Sounds like alot but it took me 30 mins and WOW does the pedal respond now and feels buttery smooth
Posts: 4,807
My VIN: 3937
Working with the throttle cable is mentioned in this service bulletin also:
http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/SC-01-1.82.html
Cleaning is a good idea after 35 years. The recall/bulletin was original intended to deal with the cable freezing and suggested using an anti-freeze solution as the lube inside the cable, i.e. ensuring no straight water is still left in there.
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 266
My VIN: 15190
I replaced the inner throttle cable and the hood cable. Overall an easy job to perform...
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