What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[EdR5150]

Finished my white door LED lights:
DoorLight-21.jpg

Blog Post: http://www.16908.info/?p=3008

[Farrar]

Finished my white door LED lights:
DoorLight-21.jpg

<Picard> THERE! ARE! MORE! LIGHTS! </Picard>

Seriously, though - nice job. How do you manage to keep cool the LEDs in the front?

[EdR5150]

Seriously, though - nice job. How do you manage to keep cool the LEDs in the front?

They're simply taped around the inside of the splitter. They're in front of the radiator.

[81dmc]

I installed my "1984 Ford Cruise Control Kit." Three wires are inside the tube, and unfortunately, more would've not fit. So, as a fix, I slid two wires between the tube and the rubber cover. Also, if any of you are wondering about the horn switch, I am moving it to the steering wheel. I am going to use an MGB slip ring and horn contact for that.
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

Next was the addition of a relay block. I moved the old resistor bypass relay connector to the rearmost relay assembly and the hot start relay wiring to it in preparation for Dave M's relay. No more thermo time switch!

Also, I moved my amp to a better location...
image.jpg
Fits under my Nissan spare.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Next was the addition of a relay block. I moved the old resistor bypass relay connector to the rearmost relay assembly and the hot start relay wiring to it in preparation for Dave M's relay. No more thermo time switch!

I mailed your hot start relay yesterday. Note, if you change your ignition ECU to the GM module, you can eliminate the resistors and bypass relay altogether. I'm now running with the resistors bypassed but soon will be unwrapping that rear harness again to remove that wiring.

[81dmc]

I mailed your hot start relay yesterday. Note, if you change your ignition ECU to the GM module, you can eliminate the resistors and bypass relay altogether. I'm now running with the resistors bypassed but soon will be unwrapping that rear harness again to remove that wiring.

I already removed the resistors for the installation of a Bosch blue coil with them built in. As for the ECU, I guess I will wait until the old one dies.

Also, that was some fast shipping!

Thanks

[DMC-81]

Over the past 2 days, I got a few jobs done on the interior. First, I installed my front speakers. Member Kukem helped me on extensions for the 4mm studs.

Driver side
Attachment 44371
Passenger side
Attachment 44370

Then I finished installing the black Mattaligner by adding 2 DMC on/off switches.

Finally, I started the work on replacing my fuse box. There were 2 fuse holders that were melted, and the PO installed inline fuses to repair them. I'll return them to stock. Man, removing all the connectors from the old one is very tedious!

Before:
Attachment 44372

After removal:
Attachment 44373

Old and New parts...
Attachment 44374

Cheers,

Today was a long day finishing my fusebox replacement after needing to buy a second open barrel crimp tool.

I bought this open barrel crimp tool on eBay ($27), and it didn't work, so it's being returned. The problem is that you can't get leverage to crimp the connector, and you have to crimp the wire and the insulator separately. I wasted 2 connectors trying to get it to work...
image.jpg

I bought this open barrel crimp tool from Grainger, and it works beautifully!! It has a ratching action, and crimps both the wire and the insulation at the same time. Just insert the connector in the tool, press halfway to preload it. Then insert a stripped wire, and then squeeze until the tool releases. Excellent tool! All for $50.
image.jpg

Here is the first fusebox wire with a new connector. 33 more to go! (I used a plastic hole gauge to separate the new work from the old connectors).
image.jpg

I found a small piece of heat shrink tubing on the original wires, so replaced them with a 7/16" length.
image.jpg

After crouching on my knees for 6-7 hours, I got all 34 connectors done and heat shrink tubing installed. Now it's time to insert them into the new fusebox.
image.jpg

All 34 connectors inserted into the fusebox. I started with the left row, and finished with the right row. The detailed diagram that I made on disassembly really helped me get each wire exactly where it was (left and right for each fuse).
image.jpg

Fuse box clipped in and new fuses inserted. They have a much tighter connection. I crossed my fingers, connected the battery and started the car. Everything worked, and no fuses blown!! Phew!!
image.jpg

Now my fuse & relay compartment is completely refurbished.
image.jpg



Cheers,

[OZ DMC]

I am slowly working through the renovation program for 2065 here in Australia - steering, front brakes, door locks, window motors etc. While the car is running very well it does have a noticeable idle "hunt" most evident when hot - Revs up and down between 850 to 1,400. (BTW, the engine is standard 2.8 Kjet)

I strongly suspect a vacuum leak but before I start pulling things apart I thought I would ask for commentary or advice.

Any help appreciated.

Cheers

OZ DMC
DMC81

[Bitsyncmaster]

I am slowly working through the renovation program for 2065 here in Australia - steering, front brakes, door locks, window motors etc. While the car is running very well it does have a noticeable idle "hunt" most evident when hot - Revs up and down between 850 to 1,400. (BTW, the engine is standard 2.8 Kjet)

I strongly suspect a vacuum leak but before I start pulling things apart I thought I would ask for commentary or advice.

Any help appreciated.

Cheers

OZ DMC
DMC81

First thing to do is clean your idle motor. Then if you can back off your curb idle screw (lower screw) that makes the idle motor run a little more open. The idle motors get the most torque at the half open point and the torque falls off as it approaches full open or full closed.

[Morpheus]

First thing to do is clean your idle motor. Then if you can back off your curb idle screw (lower screw) that makes the idle motor run a little more open. The idle motors get the most torque at the half open point and the torque falls off as it approaches full open or full closed.

Is there a how-to for cleaning your idle motor? I'm sure mine can use a little love.