What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[Christian Dietrich]

Mine seem brighter. Btw order tag led lights in 38 mm. Thats the right size and fit nice and tight and look fantastic!
Also have the same bulb in the truck as well and the same size. 38mm for the trunk, 2 dome lights and both tag lights.

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[Christian Dietrich]

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Also the engine compartment light also! 38mm festoon.

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[Jonathan]

Theyre definitely more red and amber than before, but I'm pretty sure they're the same brightness.

What colour LEDs did you use in the marker lights? I've found that if you use a different colour bulb than the colour of the plastic lense you're trying to shine through, that it filters out most of the light. When I put all white LEDs in my taillights (because it was the first package of 10 that came in the mail when I ordered them all), it hardly lit it up at all. Seems like anything in the colour spectrum that isn't what the plastic is doesn't shine through.

So, put red LEDs in the rear marker lights and amber LEDs in the front ones if you weren't already doing so.

[Christian Dietrich]

What colour LEDs did you use in the marker lights? I've found that if you use a different colour bulb than the colour of the plastic lense you're trying to shine through, that it filters out most of the light. When I put all white LEDs in my taillights (because it was the first package of 10 that came in the mail when I ordered them all), it hardly lit it up at all. Seems like anything in the colour spectrum that isn't what the plastic is doesn't shine through.

So, put red LEDs in the rear marker lights and amber LEDs in the front ones if you weren't already doing so.

Thats true! The color of the lens should also be the bulb. If not, the color will look wrong and not be as bright. Also some white leds are really blue painted in white phosphorus.

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[nkemp]

Installed a new VDO PM106 HVAC blower motor. Much quieter. I rode in some other D's to DCS16 and realized how much noiser mine was compared to theirs. That was the motivation I needed. It was an easy changeout. A couple parts get moved from the old motor to the new. I also washed the fan since it was dirty.

I got mine from Amazon and it was sold by Pep Boys. There were 2 left at Amazon and NAPA was sold out.

[MML]

Getting ready for painting

[Chris 16409]

I learned Toby was a dealer of the EZ Oil Drain Valves. I wanted to get away from the stock oil plug and washer set up. It looks like a great product so far. I also installed another one of Toby's new products. He now sells a set of custom "dress up plates" for the engine bay. One plate replaces the factory "de-ice" shield for the throttle cable. The other plate covers the area where the idle microswitch is. I already had plate for the throttle cable, so I didn't get Toby's. See pictures attached.

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[Peripatetic]

What colour LEDs did you use in the marker lights? I've found that if you use a different colour bulb than the colour of the plastic lense you're trying to shine through, that it filters out most of the light. When I put all white LEDs in my taillights (because it was the first package of 10 that came in the mail when I ordered them all), it hardly lit it up at all. Seems like anything in the colour spectrum that isn't what the plastic is doesn't shine through.

So, put red LEDs in the rear marker lights and amber LEDs in the front ones if you weren't already doing so.

They're red and Amber. I saw it briefly in twilight light and they did seem brighter. Maybe there's something wrong with my garage that it just sucks light.

I bought the correct length LEDs. Just waiting on the post office.

[DMC-81]

Yesterday I installed the new top door rubber seals on the brackets.

I removed the old glue with carb cleaner and a green scotch pad.
Attachment 45209

I used 3M super weatherstripping glue ( black). It needed to be applied to both surfaces. I roughed up the metal bracket with the gray scotch pad, cleaned the rubber with dish soap and water, and the metal with isopropyl alcohol. Then I outlined the glue area with painter's tape.

Attachment 45210

Glue applied to both surfaces. It dries to the advised tacky state quickly, so I did one bracket at a time. I removed the tape and then stuck them together starting at one end, and gradually to the other. You only get one shot to get it in the right place, so I needed to take my time. I clamped the ends for about 30 minutes.
Attachment 45211

Both seal brackets glued - and compared to the old ones. I'll let the glue cure and then drill the holes to remove the rubber.
Attachment 45212

I needed to touch up the RTV in the gutter in the area where the seal goes today, so I'll have to install them another day.

Today I reinstalled the top door seals.

First, I measured (and marked on tape), a reference where the first and last holes are in the door. Then I carefully slid the seal unit from the rear - under the T panel, into the gutter channel. I used a straight pick through the first hole in the seal bracket to pull it along the channel until it lined up with the mark. Next, I used a wooden paint stirrer to gently pry the seal bracket up into place (towards the outside of the car). I also used the stirrer to tuck the rubber seal down into the gutter so I could raise the door partway without bending the bracket. It took a couple of tries.
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Once I was able to open the door, I used the straight pick to align the hole in the bracket with the corresponding hole in the door, starting with the forward most hole. Then, I started fastening the bracket.
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There is no way that I'll want to drill out rivets in the door again and risk damage, so I opted to use stainless steel sheet metal screws instead of rivets. I selected #8 x 3/8" pan Phillips. They worked great.
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All 8 screws installed. They match the screws in the rest of the door.
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Then, I re-fastened the rear portion of the T panel. Job done!!

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With some care, I was able to remove and reinstall top door seals without completely removing the T Panel.

[Christian Dietrich]

Hooking all this up this weekend. This is going to sound great!

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