What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[Citizen]

I figured number one at the bottom if you noticed how its curved that part goes on the coolant pipe while the other part wraps around and snaps onto the otterstat keeping it in place.

Yep, that was how I found it.

[snip]
But to answer your question yes those metal clamps are Factory and that's how the cars came with them so the otterstat doesn't blow out from the coolant flowing through.

Thanks, that was the answer I was looking for (I know my post was long, but hey, it is a thread about "What have you done...".

T.

...

[OZ DMC]

Delorean owners in Australia have got together and arranged to have Chris Nicholson do the rounds on our cars.

He has been focused on body work but he did manage to fix the dodgy closing of my passenger door and show case his skills on many other aspects of the "D" mechanicals.

Sydney, Newcastle, Brisbane, Melbourne and Adelaide will all receive a visit and the work has been fantastic - Thanks Chris

Photos show Chris working on the dent in the edge of my driver side door then signing his work at my request, brilliant

Attachment 48247Attachment 48248Attachment 48249

Forgot to mention Perth as well....

[Rich W]

12 year anniversary for my Yellow Top in my 1990 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually.

Sits for months at a time and it has still performed like a trooper, most recently for DCS 2016, transporting D Rex.

I have had to "boost it" when it sits for over 6 months, but it has "recovered" well after multiple boosts, over time.

It's been sitting since late July (just after DCS 2016), so I will see if it recovers again later this month or next month.

I have a yellow top in my 2000 Supercharged Z/24 Cavalier thats been in there since 2005. Bought it in Augest of 2005 and was built in May of 2005. Getting one for the DeLorean soon from Amazon for $168. Funny how much they went up since 05. I paid $105 then.

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[Christian Dietrich]

12 year anniversary for my Yellow Top in my 1990 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually.

Sits for months at a time and it has still performed like a trooper, most recently for DCS 2016, transporting D Rex.

I have had to "boost it" when it sits for over 6 months, but it has "recovered" well after multiple boosts, over time.

It's been sitting since late July (just after DCS 2016), so I will see if it recovers again later this month or next month.

Thats how my Z/24 is. Its starting to show since of slowing if sitting for awhile and since I live in West Virginia now and I can go weeks before the roads clear up with the salt in the snow and when I go to drive it, it has a little bit of a slow start but I'll go out and put a battery tender on it for every once in awhile and I'll find out real quick after that. If I go about a month without driving it it still starts really quick but anything longer than that starts to slow it up. Now with a lot of the lighting and electronics that I added in my DeLorean, are yellow top would be great but everything in the car now is either LED or electroluminescent and that's still really won't draw anything.

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[Christian Dietrich]

Yep, that was how I found it.




Thanks, that was the answer I was looking for (I know my post was long, but hey, it is a thread about "What have you done...".

T.

...

Well i was glad to answer your question sir! 😆

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[DMC-81]

I decided to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets while the car is down for a gearbox repair. So, today, I removed the muffler, brackets, heat stove, starter heat shield, alternator, and tried to remove the passenger side manifold studs.

I sprayed WD-40 on the nuts and waited. I was contemplating heating them, but I decided to try to remove them first. I made sure not to use too much torque on this first attempt. To my surprise, they broke free just by using an 11mm crows foot with a ratchet, or a combination wrench and a hammer to tap the wrench.

Here is the heat shield which I'll refurbish and reinstall.

image.jpg

Here is the manifold after..

image.jpg
I reinstalled the nuts just snug as I still have to remove the crossover pipe.

Here's hoping that the other side is easy as well.

[81dmc]

I made my first 3D model of the the window switch and lock switch panel for VIN 831. These are going to be mounted in place of the useless door air vents and are beefed up in thickness for increased heat resistance. The cutouts are for Euramtec style window/lock switches.

Here's a screenshot of the drivers side:
Screen Shot 2017-01-22 at 7.23.36 PM.jpg

Here's a screenshot of the passengers side:
Screen Shot 2017-01-22 at 7.23.54 PM.jpg

Here's a screenshot of the blank panel:
Screen Shot 2017-01-22 at 7.24.12 PM.jpg

I attached a blank panel design in .stl AND .123d format.
Here--> Door_Vent_Panel_Base.zip


Now I just need to finish assembling my Folgertech FT-5 so I can start printing...

[Christian Dietrich]

Dont see why everyone says those vents are useless. I properly sealed mine and get awsome air flow, just like the dash vents.

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[81dmc]

Dont see why everyone says those vents are useless. I properly sealed mine and get awsome air flow, just like the dash vents.

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Mine are useless since I rerouted all vents to the dash pads. I mainly did that because I installed a double-din radio.

Honestly, if I hadn't installed a larger radio, I would have kept them.

[Christian Dietrich]

Mine are useless since I rerouted all vents to the dash pads. I mainly did that because I installed a double-din radio.

Honestly, if I hadn't installed a larger radio, I would have kept them.

Oh ok well that makes sense and I didn't know your car had a double DIN unit.

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