Last edited by Citizen; 01-16-2017 at 10:51 AM.
Keeper of the DeLorean Owners Directory, at www.DeloreanOwnersDirectory.net
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Location: Chicagoland area
Posts: 1,898
My VIN: A few, by name... DeLorean Monster Truck, DeLorean Roadster, DeLorean Hovercraft, DeLorean Limo
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
12 year anniversary for my Yellow Top in my 1990 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually.
Sits for months at a time and it has still performed like a trooper, most recently for DCS 2016, transporting D Rex.
I have had to "boost it" when it sits for over 6 months, but it has "recovered" well after multiple boosts, over time.
It's been sitting since late July (just after DCS 2016), so I will see if it recovers again later this month or next month.
Thats how my Z/24 is. Its starting to show since of slowing if sitting for awhile and since I live in West Virginia now and I can go weeks before the roads clear up with the salt in the snow and when I go to drive it, it has a little bit of a slow start but I'll go out and put a battery tender on it for every once in awhile and I'll find out real quick after that. If I go about a month without driving it it still starts really quick but anything longer than that starts to slow it up. Now with a lot of the lighting and electronics that I added in my DeLorean, are yellow top would be great but everything in the car now is either LED or electroluminescent and that's still really won't draw anything.
Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
Vin 11035 wide stripe, flat hood, 5 speed, Spec 1 exhaust, custom grey/black interior, custom lighting, custom stereo and custom alot of stuff!
I decided to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets while the car is down for a gearbox repair. So, today, I removed the muffler, brackets, heat stove, starter heat shield, alternator, and tried to remove the passenger side manifold studs.
I sprayed WD-40 on the nuts and waited. I was contemplating heating them, but I decided to try to remove them first. I made sure not to use too much torque on this first attempt. To my surprise, they broke free just by using an 11mm crows foot with a ratchet, or a combination wrench and a hammer to tap the wrench.
Here is the heat shield which I'll refurbish and reinstall.
image.jpg
Here is the manifold after..
image.jpg
I reinstalled the nuts just snug as I still have to remove the crossover pipe.
Here's hoping that the other side is easy as well.
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)
Location: FL
Posts: 948
My VIN: Early
I made my first 3D model of the the window switch and lock switch panel for VIN 831. These are going to be mounted in place of the useless door air vents and are beefed up in thickness for increased heat resistance. The cutouts are for Euramtec style window/lock switches.
Here's a screenshot of the drivers side:
Screen Shot 2017-01-22 at 7.23.36 PM.jpg
Here's a screenshot of the passengers side:
Screen Shot 2017-01-22 at 7.23.54 PM.jpg
Here's a screenshot of the blank panel:
Screen Shot 2017-01-22 at 7.24.12 PM.jpg
I attached a blank panel design in .stl AND .123d format.
Here--> Door_Vent_Panel_Base.zip
Now I just need to finish assembling my Folgertech FT-5 so I can start printing...
Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3
Dont see why everyone says those vents are useless. I properly sealed mine and get awsome air flow, just like the dash vents.
Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
Vin 11035 wide stripe, flat hood, 5 speed, Spec 1 exhaust, custom grey/black interior, custom lighting, custom stereo and custom alot of stuff!
Location: FL
Posts: 948
My VIN: Early
Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3