Hi Dennis, just seen this - I'll put you a glove box LED in too. If you need anything more let me know and I'll give you the super secret code to type in to zero shipping for an additional order. With "free shipping" now, most times it isn't needed any more though. It's a public holiday over here on Monday so won't be collected until Tuesday morning anyway.
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Awesome. Thanks.
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DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Right rear done, left rear to go then start on the front.
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Vin 11035 wide stripe, flat hood, 5 speed, Spec 1 exhaust, custom grey/black interior, custom lighting, custom stereo and custom alot of stuff!
Finished painting the rear bumper with spray cans. Came out worse than I hoped for, but still better than it was.
Just installed and these work perfect. Thoughts:
- Unplug the wire to the light socket when working on it. The old light gets HOT
- From the underside, unthread the nut holding the socket to the ring.
- Drop it down under the dash a bit (yup ... working under the dash again)
- Remove the old incandescent bulb and install the new LED bulb
- If it does not light, reverse the wires at the socket (LEDs are polarity sensitive)
Enjoy the new light.
BTW ... my latch part on the box (not the lid) is loose. It appears to be a Phillips head sheet-metal screw. The trouble is that you need a really short screwdriver to get to it. So the next step is a Phillips bit and a socket. Or I may try to replace it with a nut, lockwasher and bolt and be done with it.
Nick
- No matter how many people believe in a dumb idea ... it is still a dumb idea!
- Some cars look fast. Some cars look faster than time!
- The question is not "where did the time go" but rather "where to go in time".
Finshed the left side stainless trailing arm, adjustable upper link with new caliper pads and rotor along with a stainless hub adapter and a QA 1 adjustable coilover. Now on for the front for the installation of the stainless steel lower control arms along with the stainless steel lower control arm support brackets and more QA 1 adjustable coilovers with a 4 piston Wilwood brake caliper with cross drilled and slotted rotors.
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Vin 11035 wide stripe, flat hood, 5 speed, Spec 1 exhaust, custom grey/black interior, custom lighting, custom stereo and custom alot of stuff!
Posts: 448
I reversed the wires at the lamp socket. Simply pull off from the back of the lamp socket and reverse. BTW ... to avoid working with the lamp lit (HOT) pull one of the connectors. After installing the LED and before putting the lamp socket back, see it it lights. If not, reverse the connectors.
The light output seems fine. The original didn't light up the glovebox all that much. Both are just enough to see what you want.
Nick
- No matter how many people believe in a dumb idea ... it is still a dumb idea!
- Some cars look fast. Some cars look faster than time!
- The question is not "where did the time go" but rather "where to go in time".
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
I just put an LED bulb in my glovebox today too. Other than the part about working under the console and not being able to see what you're doing, it's pretty straight forward. I too switched the wires after at first not seeing the light bulb come on. They are those original black click on connectors like we have in other places in the car (such as the door light switches right nearby) and all you need to do is pull them off and click them back on. Super easy, no wire cutting or splicing needed. I like the brightness improvement and it doesn't get hot like the old one did.
I also put a new o-ring seal on the oil filler assembly contraption and that, I think, is finally something I can say was actually "easy" on this car, lol. No rusty fittings to contend with!
Anyone know if that metal mesh material inside that oil filler assembly canister needs to be cleaned or replaced at some point in time? I wasn't sure if it had the potential to get dirty or plugged or whatever that a standard type filter might. I suspect the answer is no, but thought I'd ask anyway.
The weather here has been real nice of late and the rain finally took some time off. Had the car out for about 350 miles or so this season so far and it's running like a champ. Gotten to just a couple of car shows as I'm enjoying driving it more than standing beside it while parked.
I'm also trying out showing the car with the doors closed most of the time. It's partly so I can wander around and look at other cars without worrying, but it's also because I think the lines of the car look great and often you don't get that perspective with the doors up. I have often looked at other people's cars and been disappointed when they have the hoods open showing off the engines because you can't really get a nice view of the design of the car with it like that. So the 2017 car show season for me is of the doors closed variety.
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Sept. 81, auto, black interior