Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 1,755
My VIN: loading, please wait...
oops, typo... should read 1922!
apparently drywall started replacing plaster & lath in the late '50s because it was cheaper and easier. i personally like plaster & lath better, although patching/repairing is definitely more of a pain the the ass...
Obtain-O-Meter: 128%
as of 2016/08/04
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Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 1,755
My VIN: loading, please wait...
i actually enjoyed teaching myself how to do it, and figuring out a creative way to fix the unusual areas of the wall & ceiling.
i am mostly to blame for it taking so long: the no-experience "learn as i go," and my anal OCD approach of making sure it is done right the first time so i dont have to do it again.
but now i show it off to friends when they come over.
Obtain-O-Meter: 128%
as of 2016/08/04
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Location: Happy Valley, OR
Posts: 1,709
My VIN: 4456 - Owner since March 2011
Club(s): (PNDC)
After a marathon session on Saturday replacing injectors, O2 sensor, and catalytic convertor I decided to roll the dice at the DEQ and try to pass emissions.
Not only did I pass, I did so spectacularly.
Now I can get regular issue plates and drive my car all the time.
Steve
Cheers
Steven Maguire
#4456
IT'S A TRAP!!!!!
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Location: Purmerend, Netherlands
Posts: 747
My VIN: 06513
Club(s): (DCN)
Owe you a report, which is more than "what have you done today"...
Started out a couple of weeks ago searching for a leak in the cooling system.
Loosing about a quart over a couple of months, so it couldn't be a very serious problem.
As it seemed to come from somewhere near the waterpump (heater connection?) so I had to remove the intake system.
Found the leak to be a seeping hose at the waterpump to the right cilinder bank.
And yes, the VoD has caught all of the fluid.
To make sure all could be cleaned I removed the waterpump and Y-pipe.
The last (lower) bolt on the waterpump gave way and broke so I had to drill out the remains and to get sufficient I removed rear facia and muffler.
Everything is spic and span now and ready for a rebuild.
As my rear main harness didn't look too well, I also decided to strip the tape and redo that.
While in the harness I took the time to separate the wiring for the starter and alternator from the loom and make a new loom at the right side directly to the connectors in the coil box.
Retaping both looms was done in half a day and putting new dust covers on the Bosch connectors was a bit more difficult.
Now all wiring looks new.
Waterpump, Y-pipe and hoses are put together, muffler is installed again.
Next will be pressure testing the cooling system, prior to re-installing the intake manifold and mixture unit.
IMG_1280w.jpgIMG_1292w.jpgIMG_1291cw.jpgIMG_1290bw.jpgIMG_1277w.jpg
Welmoed
Black D 1981-11 sold
Toyota Prius III 2009-07 (sold)
Mazda MX-30 (BEV) 2020-09
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Put the second coat of Rustoleum on the passenger seat bottom.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted