What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[Jonathan]

Hi Jonathan, Sorry for delay, was out of town.

I did just that, I cut the ground leading in to the Inertia Switch and lengthened that wire to the hidden ground bolt w/ring terminal.
(I know this isn't a stock thing that can be reversed, but it improves the car's electrical system.)

From there a new wire was added w/ring terminal back to the 'empty' inertia switch terminal. My original switch was replaced with a correct one after failing with the PO, but the multi connector had melted and fell apart so it was easy to replace the "push-on" connector with individual new ones at this point.

I was surprised at the difference of the fuel pump (normal) sound or lack of it! My fuel tank is still empty, so that may change on how the pump actually sounds when filled up.

Thanks for the explanation.

I went under the console in the driver's footwell the other day because I needed a reminder how friggin uncomfortable that is. I had a few things adding up to make me feel justified in pulling out the binnacle. My low fuel bulb is either burned out or rotated just enough to lose contact, I have a tiny bit of paper caught behind the high beam light that I'd like to remove, my low beam bulb every so often needs a love tap on top of the binnacle to come on and the tach needle is bouncing from time to time. I also had a new hood release lever bracket to put in while I was under there.

I got the bracket for the hood lever in and thanks to Dana for the reminder on getting that cable aligned so it isn't rubbing. I looked around seeing if I could find this infamous ground wire connection that (I think) goes up and becomes the ground on the white connector on the cluster. It sure seems like this is it here in the photo:

IMG_0300.jpg

That single white plastic connector looks a little like the inline fuse holders, but it's nothing more than a single wire connector with the two ends much like what is inside other connectors (bulkhead connectors for example). And it's the ground coming down from the instrument cluster. I wiggled it open, initially thinking it had a 'push and turn' type lock, but it doesn't. It just pulls apart. It had some crusty stuff flake out when I did this. I cleaned it up, put it back in, realized how bad my back hurts from lying upside down in that position, and so decided to just see if that ground connection made much difference.

Booyah. My tach needle stopped bouncing. Friggin sweet. The low beam bulb doesn't hesitate coming on now either.

I did notice just at the end of the drive I went on that my tach needle will bounce a little (much less and different than what it was doing before) but only when you are flooring it, have the WOT switches engaged, and the RPMs are getting quite high at 4-5,000 or so. So maybe some other ground too back there that is getting overloaded in those full throttle, high rev conditions.

Nice to get that day to day bouncing tach needle crap sorted out though. And it was ground wire related. Wow, what a shocker that was lol.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I replaced my lambda ECU today thinking maybe that was causing my AFR to hold around 15.3. Well that did not change the AFR but it did require I adjust the mixture via dwell meter. Note I'm now sticking with using 4 cylinder dwell numbers instead of % duty cycle to eliminate confusion to other owners. The dwell was running around 30 deg before I adjusted it back up to 40 deg.

One thing I found is my dwell readings are more stable holding RPM around 2000 which is mostly where your run anyway. With my heated wideband sensor that was not a problem. But the narrow band stock sensor must run a little cool at idle speed.

I think I had a little RPM surging when the dwell was at 30 deg but it was not there at 40 deg. So maybe other owners who experience bad idle hunting should make sure the dwell is set to 40 deg.

I also had a little rattle sound at idle and found that was the oil filler cap was not pushed all the way down. I should replace that O-ring on the cap someday.

I'm guessing something is wrong with my tail pipe wide band system but still not sure why my AFR is 15.3.

[ritztoys]

I finally got the chance to get gas for my car, after my gas line failure. (This failure then almost emptied my fuel tank)
So now with a 1/2 full tank (gauge reads pretty darn close too) Upon testing the fuel line pressure with the car running, no more leaks, but the good part I could barely hear my fuel pump running after my additional ground via the Inertia switch.
Very surprised how I can hardly hear the fuel pump with the engine running, I had to lean into the frunk to hear it!
I also installed @Bitsyncmaster's suggestion of a Voltage Spike Diode to quiet my voltage spike from my A/C compressor, my electrical system should be a little quieter now, thank-you Dave.

[Parzival]

Removed my crank shaft pulley nut!
That is all, it was a project all unto itself! DMC-81 (AKA Dana) and I tried for a few hours to remove it two nights ago with no luck. Dana told me I should try an impact wrench after our first breaker bar broke and our new 4 foot breaker bar threatened to do the same.

This low profile impact wrench claims to provide 700ft-lbs of breaking force. I only have room for a small compressor, so I found one that goes up to 165PSI so that it would have enough reserves in the tank in case the compressor couldn't keep up. It took 3 full tanks of air to finally break it free!
All I wanted to do today was get it off, thankfully its now off... few
pulley nut.jpg
pully nut 2.jpg

[DMC-81]

Removed my crank shaft pulley nut!
That is all, it was a project all unto itself! DMC-81 (AKA Dana) and I tried for a few hours to remove it two nights ago with no luck. Dana told me I should try an impact wrench after our first breaker bar broke and our new 4 foot breaker bar threatened to do the same.

This low profile impact wrench claims to provide 700ft-lbs of breaking force. I only have room for a small compressor, so I found one that goes up to 165PSI so that it would have enough reserves in the tank in case the compressor couldn't keep up. It took 3 full tanks of air to finally break it free!
All I wanted to do today was get it off, thankfully its now off... few
pulley nut.jpg
pully nut 2.jpg

That was definitely a bear!! Glad that you got it off!!

[Parzival]

That was definitely a bear!! Glad that you got it off!!

Thanks to your advice! and now the shop is equipped with air. That will come in handy, and perhaps I'll be back on the road by halloween (I hope)

[mhanch]

I'm new to here, but I'm learning how my Delorean ticks - and doing the basics. So far

• Oil Change
• Check all Fluids
• Fix the door switches
• Swap interior to LED bulbs

and a whole lot of cleaning. It's an exciting car.

[Conundrum]

One of the last sets from the Hervey's arrived today.

[nkemp]

Installed new rear bushings (all 8 and I used rubber, not PU) and it fixed the excess rear camber. I haven't felt this good about the car in a long time. Now searching for tires.

[bfloyd]

Drove my car up to DMC Midwest from Nashville on Monday to have the new Eibach springs and shocks installed. Mike and his crew did an amazing job on the car as always.


Picked the car up from the shop on Thursday afternoon to make the almost 9 hour trip home. Things were going well until the voltage regulator in the alternator crapped out on the way back. It was running high around 16+ volts, and then would wildly swing down below 12volts where the battery light would come on. Limped it down Interstate 65 South through Kentucky where it finally called it quits 87 miles from home. Called AAA and took the "Ride of Shame" home on the back of a flat bed truck. Alternators are cheap, easy to install, and our upgraded AAA package covers 100 mile tows. Didn't cost me anything except pride and time. The alternator I'm running is covered under a "Lifetime Warranty", so it should be a direct swap out at O'Reilly's Auto Parts on Saturday afternoon.