Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 1,168
My VIN: 10270
Capitol Cadillac, still in business but under a different name.Originally Posted by MrChocky
A friend of mine worked the parts counter and found some original binders, including these service procedures manual which I scanned awhile back:
https://archive.org/details/DeLorean...oceduresManual
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Location: Ellensburg, WA
Posts: 190
My VIN: 5510
I got the engine and transmission removed from the frame!! Only missed one hose, which was a coolant line coming from the overflow tank. I learned some things - first was that you can get stainless steel carabiners (or similar) that can hold 1800 pounds, which work really great to hold the load balancer chains to the lift rings on the engine. Second, since the engine and transmission weigh about 750 pounds, its best to stick the engine hoist out there - mine is rated for 1-ton, and I set it at the 3/4 ton spot. I wish I would have put it at the 1/2 ton spot, because when I lifted the engine up high it started to rub on the hoist itself.
Once out, I was able to take off the two little plates that have to come off in order to separate the engine and transmission, and since both are present I will assume that the transmission has never been removed from the engine.
The transmission is still stuck to the engine, though.I got some MAPP gas and tried heating up the area around the stuck bolt, but that wasn't successful. I can get quite a large gap (1/2") on the passenger side, and a small 1/8" gap on the drivers side, so it's definitely just that bolt. I also tried using an SDS hammer drill set to hammer mode to try and punch out the bolt, but that didn't work either. This damn bolt is really stuck in there!!
Posts: 1,243
My VIN: 10201
Those little plates really messed with me. Didn't look like they held anything together. Once I got them off, I finally was able to separate the engine and transmission. I used a transmission jack to get it out, then I pulled the engine. Didn't have space to take both out together.
Location: Ellensburg, WA
Posts: 190
My VIN: 5510
Did you put them back? From what I've read, not everybody does. I guess they are a pain in the ass to get to while in the frame, and most people don't bother putting them back on. Even the sensor on the driver's side plate isn't even used except through the diagnostic port.
Location: England
Posts: 112
My VIN: 07164
Club(s): (DCH)
Just completed this as well.
Transmission still attached...
2NrsOSpl.jpg
lwhxN8Al.jpg
jBc03Aom.jpg
I would hate to have attempted this with the body on.
Last edited by er1c; 06-10-2020 at 06:34 AM.
Posts: 1,243
My VIN: 10201
I didn't put the plates back cause I'm going electric with my car.
Pulling the engine and transmission out really isn't that bad with the body on. I was able to do it and I didn't know jack shit about cars when I first bought mine 5 years ago. The worst parts were that stupid plate that I didn't realize held the engine and transmission togethern and the connection between the driver side exhaust manifold and the crossover. Once I had the plate removed, the transmission easily separated. The exhaust was just hard cause I really needed a 2nd person to keep the nuts from spinning. I had to wedge a wrench on the frame to I could hold the nut while using a ratchet.
Location: Ellensburg, WA
Posts: 190
My VIN: 5510
Nice! What's the plan with the restoration? New frame?
Posts: 1,243
My VIN: 10201
I'm working on this
https://imgur.com/a/Ck7IXOi
Location: Ellensburg, WA
Posts: 190
My VIN: 5510
I'm also going EV with my DMC, but that's a longer time frame project, so I have to put my engine and transmission back in for at least a few months. I've had many conversations in my head about scrapping that interim setup, since this process of dealing with the engine and transmission has been a pain!!
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 266
My VIN: 15190
Finished my VOD job
Yesterday afternoon, I fired up the engine and took it for a test drive. It really drives great after replacing the spark plugs, spark wires, distributor cap, rotor arm and cleaned the injectors. I wiped everything as best as I could and zinc coated some parts.
I'm sharing some photos I took yesterday.
IMG_6748.jpgIMG_6750.jpgIMG_6751.jpgIMG_6757.jpg
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