FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
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Thread: What have you done to your DeLorean today?

  1. #8371
    Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Seattle, WA

    Posts:    75

    My VIN:    5510

    FINALLY got my engine and transmission separated!!

    After about 40 attempts with welding a nut onto the broken bolt, I gave up and decided on a different route. I drilled straight down into the bolt, and used one of the others as a template to know how far down to go so that I wouldn't accidentally drill into the threads in the engine block. It took me about 2 hours of drilling - the woes of Harbor Freight drill bits and a cordless drill - but I finally got it drilled all the way down. Then it was as simple as wiggling the engine and transmission with some pry bars, and I could see the bolt start to recede and a gap opening up. A minute or so of rocking it back and forth it and it finally let go!

    Aftermath video here:

    https://youtu.be/TfuGHvy6TK0

  2. #8372
    Senior Member SBL's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Treasure Island, FL

    Posts:    124

    My VIN:    10342

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Since she lives here anyway, thought I should take her to the other side of the house for a few pictures on the beach.

    IMG_2206.jpgIMG_0562.jpg
    Steve Liggett
    Treasure Island, FL
    1982 automatic, VIN 10342, grey int

    Previous: VIN 5983, VIN 3670
    Who knows where my previous 1981 with 6 cylinder Chevy engine is these days (cannot find that VIN) ?

  3. #8373
    Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Seattle, WA

    Posts:    75

    My VIN:    5510

    I've done some various things on the DeLorean over the past ~2 weeks:

    It took only two tries, and I was able to remove the broken bolt shown in my previous video - used the Flux core welder to weld a nut on to the destroyed bolt. The first time I tried a wrench and it had a good amount of resistance, but then broke. Second attempt I used my weak Ryobi impact driver and it popped right out! The threads seem fine, I cleaned them up and ran a new bolt in and out about a dozen times. With the bolt removed I was able to transfer the engine off the hoist and onto the engine stand. I had never done that, so I had to learn some tricks, but it didn't take too long to get it mounted. I needed the hoist because...

    The new stainless frame is scheduled for deliver on Monday!! I think its going to be a bit of an experiment getting the frame unloaded. They told me that the crate wont fit on the lift gate, so I'm going to have a reciprocating saw available to cut open the crate and the hoist available to pick the frame out and lower it onto some dollies. That's the backup, the primary option is to have 4 people available to pick it up and set it down.

    The brakes are now completely disassembled to bare components. The parking calipers were a pain - well, specifically just the pin that holds the cover on the parking caliper. It wasn't the stock version with a cotter pin, and I ended up having to get an air hammer pin punch set to get it out. All of the calipers are split and I've taken a wire wheel to them to get the badly chipping paint and gunk off, though I'm really just trying to get the big spots, since it will be sandblasted prior to powder coating.

    Similarly, the suspension components and hubs are also getting fully torn down. I'm having some issues with pressing the bushings out, so I am going to drop them off at DeLorean Service Northwest tomorrow to let Toby take care of them. I also found that my rear left hub bearing was replaced with an aftermarket bearing (it was red, so I believe its from Delorean Industries) and for the life of me I can't get it out (that is, I can't get the half shaft out of the hub carrier). The bearing is built like a tank - I've hit it with a hammer, an air chisel, a MAP torch, I've let it soak in penetrant for a WEEK - and the thing still spins like it was brand new!! The stock one took me about 3 seconds to break in half with the air hammer! All I can say is that this replacement one is clearly well made, haha! I'm also quite glad that I'm replacing the stock bearing, because that wheel wasn't spinning freely and I thought it was the brakes, which were definitely stuck, but after I got the caliper off I found out that the bearing was bad - it would spin a bit, then get hard to move, then spin a bit.

    Other than that, I've been trying to reorganize the garage and get all the parts moved onto my storage rack so that when the new frame gets here it will have a place to live. I'm also going through all the parts that I pulled off the car and trying to figure which ones need some work before going back on - I think the steering rack, steering mounts, crossover brace, and shift linkage all need some love before I'll allow them back on. Other than the rusty exhaust, no other rust is allowed!

  4. #8374
    President, DeLorean Industries
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  CLE/PHX

    Posts:    2,521

    My VIN:    5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538

    Our advice as to reduce the risk of damaging if you can't remove the entire crate from the truck is this procedure.

    Condensed instructions:

    ___ Min 4 people to assist
    ___ Center crate in the truck and remove the lid with t25 torq bit
    ___ Crate must be center as the cross braces go through the sides of the structure. (these fasteners are standard #2 wood screws)
    ___ Remove all loose components surrounding the frame
    ___ Remove the 6 locking blocks that hold the frame to the base (two visible at center section two front two rear at lower cradle/shock tower area)
    ___ Remove the upper cross braces x3
    ___ Lift frame vertical and rest on the long edge of the crate (two front two rear)
    ___ First two people walk out onto liftgate, have driver lower halfway, Step down and other two follow.
    ___ Don't miss the big flat piece of cardboard beneath the frame. This is the powder-coated tank closing plate
    ___ Hope the shipping company doesn't expect you to take the crate too.

    IMG-7640.jpgIMG-7640.jpg

  5. #8375
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2019

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    118

    My VIN:    6791

    I've written up a history (as far as I know of) of my car, and keeping notes as I address things:

    https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...it?usp=sharing

  6. #8376
    Senior Member Riley88's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2014

    Location:  Virginia Beach, Virginia

    Posts:    455

    My VIN:    5312

    Went for a drive then dropped her off to have my windshield tinted
    - OCT81 DeLorean DMC-12 Vin 5312 "DeLores"
    - 1978 Lotus Esprit S2 "Problem Child"
    - 1995 Mazda Miata Turbo "Happy Daily Driver"

  7. #8377
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2015

    Location:  Novi, MI

    Posts:    306

    My VIN:    4665

    Washed 4665 and vacuumed out interior. Getting ready for the drive in movie on Friday. Won't be hard to guess which movie is playing, and I just couldn't miss the chance.

  8. #8378
    Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Seattle, WA

    Posts:    75

    My VIN:    5510

    Today I checked out of work a little earlier than usual and had everything setup so I could clean up all of my coolant pipes! Some of them have a lot of black gunk on them, and they're just generally in need of a shine before putting on the new frame.

    20200730_172317.jpg

    Then I started cleaning... And I found that every single pipe looked like this:

    20200730_174621.jpg
    20200730_174637.jpg
    20200730_181716.jpg
    20200730_181706.jpg

    Not all of them have pin holes that go all the way through, probably half do. The other half are close to breaching through. I'm guessing there is no saving them? Also, most of the hose clamps are the type that dig into the material, so the hoses that connect everything together are pretty well trashed and are getting replaced with silicone ones.

    [Sorry about inverted pictures, by the way - apparently the forum software doesn't understand cell phone rotation]

  9. #8379
    Senior Member Riley88's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2014

    Location:  Virginia Beach, Virginia

    Posts:    455

    My VIN:    5312

    Quote Originally Posted by CyberBill View Post
    Today I checked out of work a little earlier than usual and had everything setup so I could clean up all of my coolant pipes! Some of them have a lot of black gunk on them, and they're just generally in need of a shine before putting on the new frame.

    20200730_172317.jpg

    Then I started cleaning... And I found that every single pipe looked like this:

    20200730_174621.jpg
    20200730_174637.jpg
    20200730_181716.jpg
    20200730_181706.jpg

    Not all of them have pin holes that go all the way through, probably half do. The other half are close to breaching through. I'm guessing there is no saving them? Also, most of the hose clamps are the type that dig into the material, so the hoses that connect everything together are pretty well trashed and are getting replaced with silicone ones.

    [Sorry about inverted pictures, by the way - apparently the forum software doesn't understand cell phone rotation]
    I have to do this job on my esprit, and they run through the frame so i need to remove my radiator. not looking forward to it. have new ones but bah
    - OCT81 DeLorean DMC-12 Vin 5312 "DeLores"
    - 1978 Lotus Esprit S2 "Problem Child"
    - 1995 Mazda Miata Turbo "Happy Daily Driver"

  10. #8380
    Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Seattle, WA

    Posts:    75

    My VIN:    5510

    The stainless steel frame has arrived! I'll do a more proper post and video soon. In the mean time, I've been working on de-rusting all of the things that are going back on the frame, and I've started doing some experiments with electrolysis for rust removal. So far I'm quite happy with the results - and its SUPER CHEAP. For one, I had everything necessary just laying around the garage already with the exception of some Super Washing Soda that cost $4. My first test was one of the exhaust manifolds - I let it sit in there for about 16 hours or so. By the way, I wire wheeled both manifolds before the pictures, they were absolutely horrible looking before.

    20200805_144120.jpg20200806_211957.jpg20200806_212021.jpg20200806_212014.jpg

    I'll call that a win! Up until this point I've been using Evaporust to remove rust, and while it works very well it's also $30/gallon! I'll keep it on hand for cleaning up small things like nuts and bolts. Speaking of which - I also picked up a cheap bench grinder and put a wire wheel on it. It works GREAT for cleaning up rusty threads. I may need to find a better wire wheel, though, because this one shakes the dickens out of my entire work bench when it gets up to speed.

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