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Thread: What have you done to your DeLorean today?

  1. #8491
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

    Location:  Tacoma, Wa

    Posts:    2,150

    My VIN:    4877

    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael View Post
    Replaced parking brake pads. Not sure I trust DMCH's pads though. One came apart before I even got the assembly back on the caliper. Thankfully 2 my old pads were still good and I reused one of them.

    Attachment 64811
    Hooray for NoS parts....lol
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    The Ressurection of 4877......
    Website
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    My Patreon

  2. #8492
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2016

    Location:  Austin MN

    Posts:    210

    My VIN:    03500

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael View Post
    Replaced parking brake pads. Not sure I trust DMCH's pads though. One came apart before I even got the assembly back on the caliper. Thankfully 2 my old pads were still good and I reused one of them.

    Attachment 64811
    I bought a set of Ferodo pads. I haven't put them on yet but the europeans rate them the best. There tappard for better contact with the break rotor because of the angle.

    Dave B.

  3. #8493
    Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Seattle, WA

    Posts:    95

    My VIN:    5510

    Woot! Last night I got my new rear suspension almost completely built on both sides!! I did mess up and knocked the helicoil in the rear brake caliper mount loose. I didn't realize that's what it was, and I was cleaning up the threads with a tap, and noticed a little bit of metal sticking out of the hole. When I pulled on it, it uncoiled and came out... OOPS! So, new helicoil kit coming in today.

    Tonight I will be trying my best to press in new upper control arm bushings. Step 1 of that is to build a helper tool to keep the flanges spaced properly. Turns out they are almost exactly 1" apart, so I think I'm going to pick up some 1" square tube and thin it down as necessary, and weld it together to make a little Y-shaped piece that I can use. I may also give it a go with two 1/2" pieces of plywood. Once I have them pressed in I can finish up the front suspension and install the front brakes.

  4. #8494
    Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2020

    Location:  Danvers, ma

    Posts:    53

    I bolted the lip of my rear fascia between the tailpipes back onto the mounting plate, looks so much better now. Also epoxied the ripped out screw hole that help my engine cover hold up bracket on and installed a new 4 hole hold up bracket on so my engine cover stays up on it's own. Next to come are rear brake pads an oil change and diagnosing the lambda system to try and get the car into closed loop idle.

  5. #8495
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

    Posts:    975

    My VIN:    10270

    Quote Originally Posted by WHO1DMC View Post
    I bought a set of Ferodo pads. I haven't put them on yet but the europeans rate them the best. There tappard for better contact with the break rotor because of the angle.
    It might be a caveman solution, but you can file a taper on stock-style pads. Only takes about 60 seconds per pad.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

    Console5.com - Game console parts, kits, games and more. [shop] [wiki] [RSS] [f] [t]

  6. #8496
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2018

    Posts:    613

    Quote Originally Posted by TheStoot View Post
    Also epoxied the ripped out screw hole that help my engine cover hold up bracket on and installed a new 4 hole hold up bracket on so my engine cover stays up on it's own.
    If you ever get tired of the stock engine cover bracket system, consider installing this: https://www.delorean-parts.com/produ...-support-clip/

    Cheap, easy to install, and holds the engine cover higher up than stock. It also reduces stress on the engine cover.

  7. #8497
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2011

    Location:  Ontario, Canada

    Posts:    189

    My VIN:    17145, 1983 canadian model

    I arranged something similar on my. But the one from Northwest looks way more stylish and sturdy. They make very good parts and I wish I ordered that one from Toby with the recent purchase of the third brake light, from them as well👍🏼
    Attached Images

  8. #8498
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2011

    Location:  Ontario, Canada

    Posts:    189

    My VIN:    17145, 1983 canadian model

    Just installed the third brake light, from Northwest. I decide to fish the wire trough the space between the stainless steel quarter panel section. The instructions that came with the parts were clear and easy to follow. They also use wax paper instead of plastic for their parts wrapping. 👍🏼
    Attached Images

  9. #8499
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Las Vegas

    Posts:    719

    My VIN:    6720

    Club(s):   (AZ-D) (LVDG)

    Quote Originally Posted by CFI View Post
    If you ever get tired of the stock engine cover bracket system, consider installing this: https://www.delorean-parts.com/produ...-support-clip/

    Cheap, easy to install, and holds the engine cover higher up than stock. It also reduces stress on the engine cover.
    Thatís clever. I did something similar by drilling a small hole where that bracket screws into the upper louvre, then taking a thick metal coat hangar, cutting a short piece of the metal, and bending it into a S shape. I used the S shape hook to hang through the hole drilled in the upper louvre and hold up the lower cover by same method as the linked hook.
    5 speed, grooved hood, grey interior (Nov '81)
    QA1 coilovers, Delorean.eu LCA brackets, DPNW Poly swaybar bushings, DMCMW shock tower bar, Deloreana.com convex mirrors, DPNW Toby Tabs, DPI exhaust, C4 Corvette third brake light, PJ Grady tail light boards, Bitsyncmaster relays

  10. #8500
    Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Seattle, WA

    Posts:    95

    My VIN:    5510

    Last night I was able to successfully press the upper control arm bushings in! It was actually pretty simple. I picked up some 1" square tube from Lowes for about $12, cut off two 8" long pieces or so (didn't measure) and then chamfered the edges a bit so it wouldn't dig into the powder coating. I stuck those inside the 'pocket' of the arm and it worked perfectly to prevent the arm from crushing!

    I did run into a slight issue - it appears one of my UCAs was slightly bent inward, and also the 'dimples' that the bushings go into was kind of loose on one of them. So, I flattened the dimple down a bit in the press - so it holds the bushing much tighter now - and I used a floor jack to spread the arm open a bit (about 1/8" or so) and now it all fits perfectly! I was worried I was going to crack the arm or something, but went slow and pushed on it about 10 times with the jack until fit.

    That means I now have a 100% installed front suspension!

    I moved onto the brakes after that - fixed the helicoil in the rear, super simple - and I've now got both calipers installed on the passenger side. Tonight I'll do the driver's side and then finish up the brake lines all around. This weekend I should be able to get the engine and transmission back in the frame and all hooked up!!

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