What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[82DMC12]

Two days ago I removed my driver side trailing arm for restoration and to finally install my D/S Toby Tab I bought about 15 years ago. The bolt is incredibly stuck in the T/A so it's currently soaking in ATF+acetone. I might have to bring it to a machine shop to get the bolt out. We'll see.

Last night I removed my P/S trailing arm which already had a Toby Tab installed. I was shocked to find the locknut was fairly easy to turn off of the bolt - I need to check this stuff more often. The arm was not loose but certainly could have been eventually. I will probably double-nut it on reinstallation.

Anyway, the nut came off, bolt slid out, got the arm out of the way. Now to remove the T/A bracket because I'm replacing all this stuff. The rear 13mm bolt/nut came out OK. Note: the hole in the frame is also threaded, it is NOT a hollow tube!!).

The front was a lot tighter. For some reason I had a really tough time getting a wrench onto the nut, probably due to clearance issues with the frame sticking out (the part where it's slightly bent) as well as the shift levers. I thought maybe the locknut was stuck onto the welded nut so I put a ratchet on the bolt head and it actually unscrewed a few times before the head snapped off , leaving about 1/4" of shank remaining, frozen in the frame. Things got very scary as I slowly ran out of options to move the nut due to extremely poor access. I briefly considered cutting a hole in the frame so I could get a socket on the nut, squared-up, but finally gave it one last shot with a stubby 13mm (I almost never use stubbys, but damn, when you need them... YOU NEED THEM) coming from the outside/ TA side of the frame, with another wrench linked to it for extra leverage. Now the nut was moving and turning the shank out, but the shank was too long to get the nut and shank out of the frame. I ended up using my angle grinder to cut the shank off flush with the frame (about 2mm of clearance to spare to get the grinder in at the right angle), then that gave me just enough room to turn the nut and shank out. Wow - could have been another crisis. This took all evening but I was relieved to get it out - popped a beer in celebration (Boulevard Coffee stout)

On the plus side, now I have removed every single bolt that touches the frame except for the engine mounts so HOPEFULLY no more broken bolt bullshit in the future...... RIGHT?!?

[Jonathan]

Replaced sticky ISM with a new one and replaced 2 little tiny hoses coming from it. Didn't want to waste time on reinstalling original ISM after attempting a cleaning.
Replaced original ISM mount with SS version from DPI. Looks so much cleaner now. Arrived before my replacement ISM did...great shipping department at DPI.
Finally adjusted the curb idle screw after install of the Dave McKeen Microprocessor Idle ECU. Very responsive now...I think I'll keep this new ECU in place.
Learned to follow instructions...it is important.

I saw this comment the other day and wanted to ask you or anyone else for that matter if they have feedback on these new, replacement idle speed motors? Both Houston and DeLoGO are selling new ones and the only thing it mentions in terms of direct replacement or alterations needed is that the new ones are skinnier and so you need to make up for that space inside the bracket with padding of some kind to keep it snug.

Any other adjustments needed to the air or fuel system or do you just plop it in, hook it up and good to go?

[MrChocky]

I saw this comment the other day and wanted to ask you or anyone else for that matter if they have feedback on these new, replacement idle speed motors? Both Houston and DeLoGO are selling new ones and the only thing it mentions in terms of direct replacement or alterations needed is that the new ones are skinnier and so you need to make up for that space inside the bracket with padding of some kind to keep it snug.

Any other adjustments needed to the air or fuel system or do you just plop it in, hook it up and good to go?

I have it. It did come with a skinny rubber strip, but it's far too small - *that* proved instead to be perfect for my loose frequency valve.
I have some rubber hose keeping it in place, but it's far from satisfactory.

Otherwise, the ISM is pretty boring, just goes in same as the other one.

[iflights]

I saw this comment the other day and wanted to ask you or anyone else for that matter if they have feedback on these new, replacement idle speed motors? Both Houston and DeLoGO are selling new ones and the only thing it mentions in terms of direct replacement or alterations needed is that the new ones are skinnier and so you need to make up for that space inside the bracket with padding of some kind to keep it snug.

Any other adjustments needed to the air or fuel system or do you just plop it in, hook it up and good to go?

I purchased the DeLoGo model. It was recommended by Dave McKeen as I was having some challenges getting idle under control with his ECU.

Because I changed my idle speed to 825 I needed to adjust curb idle, but no air or fuel mixture changes required.

The DGO version came with an adhesive spacer strip that goes around the smaller circumference motor. It was able to fit nicely in the bracket with the spacer strip.

[82DMC12]

Steady progress on my suspension overhaul. I had bad brake pedal pulsation after installing my freshly-turned front rotors a couple weeks ago. I decided to do a full brake system rebuild at that point so I took my rear brakes apart and brought my rear rotors along with my front rotors to an actual machine shop to get the runout checked. This place confirmed one of the front rotors was not turned straight, they figure the first place I went to didn't put it on the lathe correctly or the mating surface was dirty. They bead blasted the rotors and gave them a good turn, so I hope I'm good to go now.

Same machine shop took my dirty rear carriers with outer drive shaft and old bearings in them, blasted and degreased them, pressed in new SKF bearings, and pressed in the drive shafts. I'm going to leave them bare metal but I'll spray some Duplicolor Clear ceramic engine enamel on them so they spray off easily when I want to clean them in the future.

When I picked this stuff up, I gave them my trailing arms because I still have a T/A bolt stuck in one of them and I need them to extract it for me. I have new Toby Tabs to use on re-installation. The machine shop has a huge oven so they'll bake the old epoxy off and then shot blast the metal so I can get them either powder coated or maybe just POR15, haven't quite decided yet.

I also dropped off my rear lower links with painterdave who is going to powder coat them. So, at this point, I'm just waiting for my calipers to come back from the plating service as well as a few more bits of hardware from various vendors.

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[Helirich]

I know this is Micheal's department. It gave me a chuckle.

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[Michael]

I know this is Micheal's department. It gave me a chuckle.

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My humor is on a much higher level. This belongs in DeLorean Fanatics.

[82DMC12]

Just a little more progress on my rear chassis restoration.

Trailing arms went to the machine shop to get baked clean and remove the stuck T/A bolt. They got it out without a lot of drama. I took them home and did the POR15 degrease/rinse/metal prep/rinse/dry dance and then gave them two coats of Grey POR15, inside and out, followed by a top coat of Rustoluem Smoke Grey on the outside-only. They look pretty good!

Last weekend I installed the new SS trailing arm reinforcement brackets. New hardware for the attachment bolts/nuts/washers and polished the passenger side ground that attaches to this point. Interesting to note that the parts manual does not show the nylock nuts that go inside the frame against the welded-on nuts. In fact the supplied bolts I ordered from DMC are too short to put nuts on, but Mike says no worries so I'll leave them be. Just another parts book vs actual parts discrepancy!

While I was in there with nothing else to really do, I removed my transmission mounts so I can have painterdave powder coat them for me. After blasting them he found both of them had small cracks so it's a good thing I decided to get them cleaned up.

I'm also waiting on some brake parts so while my master cylinder is out, now is a good time to get the booster and bracket refinished. I don't know how it is on an automatic, but for a MT you have to disconnect the clutch cylinder from the firewall so you can move it out of the way to get the bracket and booster out. No need to lose any clutch fluid - there's enough play to move it to the side and maneuver the brake stuff out. It was very difficult to get the clutch cylinder bolts out solo - I had to ask my wife to use the ratchet while I held the bolt in place with an open-end wrench from inside the car. I see the parts book shows the bolts going into the car from the outside so the nuts would be in the interior. Mine were reversed, I guess I did that when I changed the cylinder a few years back. I'll put it back together "correctly" and see if that helps so I can get a socket on the nut inside instead of the clearance issues I found with the bolt head inside.

Basically just twiddling my thumbs until I get all my brake stuff back from plating and a few things from DPI. Man I can't wait to put all this back together....

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[steve]

Is that a crack I see in the 3rd Pic?
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=67249

[82DMC12]

Is that a crack I see in the 3rd Pic?
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=67249

It is. That's the transmission mount section that attaches to the transmission casing. Both of mine had cracks in them - they are getting welded and then powder coated as we speak. I guess it's a fairly common thing. I'm glad it was caught now rather than before a failure. And here I was almost too lazy to pull them out!