From what I understand, the torsion bars can be removed easily after that T panel is out. Moving the door upward past where it would normaly strike the T panel, relieves all the tension on the bar and it can be removed. Anyone ever do this?
Location: Magnolia, TX
Posts: 67
My VIN: 6650
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From what I understand, the torsion bars can be removed easily after that T panel is out. Moving the door upward past where it would normaly strike the T panel, relieves all the tension on the bar and it can be removed. Anyone ever do this?
Posts: 605
it does relieve a lot of force from the bar but it's far from being loose !
I'd say there is 50 to 70% of the force / torque still on the bar.
Location: Taylors SC
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Absolutely not. With the door straight up there is still at least 45 degrees of twist in the bar.Originally Posted by DniveK
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,582
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Because the torsion bars are rare and expensive it is not a good idea to try any short-cuts like that even if you could. Besides, without the proper tools to take them out, how do you expect to get them back in? And there is always the personal danger of hurting yourself. It ain't worth it! I did know of someone (Claude Landi) taking the doors off without removing the torsion bars. He admitted doing it because he did not have the proper tools and it damaged the doors.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Rochester, NY
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On my car with the doors a little past vertical, I could release the all the bar tension and the bracket (still on) would just stop short of the rear window. So I would guess it's more like 30-40 degrees of twist still in the bar. Of course it all depends on which spline your set on and how far you open the door.
I had to do this to get the bracket off. It would not move with someone holding the bar. I guess the hex tool put a little twist on the splines.
I did install new brackets after I got them off.
Last edited by Bitsyncmaster; 12-17-2011 at 06:14 AM.
Posts: 133
My VIN: 5875
It took me over 5 hrs. of messing around with the door pins to get them just right to where the door would open and close proper and the alignment would be corrected.
All that for appox. 1/8". But I'm happy and the door works good.
(Before)
(After)
(Before)
(After)
(Before)
(After)
Andy Garand
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,585
My VIN: 06960
Did you adjust the stainless panels after you got the door aligned?
When aligning the door, we're you adjusting just the strikers or anything else as well?
Jim Reeve
DMC6960
D-Status: - Getting some Spring exercise
Posts: 133
My VIN: 5875
The only adjustments I made were to the stikers. All the time was spent on moving the strikers around, most times only about 1mm at a time.
Andy Garand
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,582
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
If you have a bar where the end is damaged and the allen doesn't fit right or the end is split, it would make sense to try anything since the bar is trash anyway. I have had many where the anchor brackets are difficult to remove. The way I do it is to use 2 screwdrivers and work it back-and-forth watching that I do NOT move the torsion bar out of the front hinge. I have not run into a bracket that could not be removed but I admit, sometimes you think you will not be able to do it! After removal I file the splines in the bracket and on the torsion bar enough so the bracket will slide smoothly on and off. Another tip might be to tap threads into the anchor bracket so in the future you can "jack" it off if you have to but I file the splines. It also helps to have a LONG bar and a patient helper.
David Teitelbaum
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