I think it would be interesting to list in a sticky the mods that would make for a more reliable car. There are many of us that are not looking for performance or projects - we just enjoy driving the car :-)
Location: Gatlinburg, TN
Posts: 275
My VIN: 1968
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
I think it would be interesting to list in a sticky the mods that would make for a more reliable car. There are many of us that are not looking for performance or projects - we just enjoy driving the car :-)
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 2,405
My VIN: 01049
My thoughts:
Updated relays/circuit break kit
Stainless clutch line in case of manual transmission
Tighten down output shaft nut in case of manual transmission (I can't emphasize this enough. Mine backed off, cracked open my transmission end cap. Huge headache.)
Unplug stock door lock module
Starter wiring tech bulletin if applicable and not done
Last edited by opethmike; 12-17-2011 at 01:46 PM.
-Mike
My engine twists my frame.
1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap completed
1999 Corvette, cam/headers/intake manifold, 400 rwhp
2005 Elise, stock
2016 Chevy Cruze
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 438
My VIN: 2109
Club(s): (DCF)
Digital RPM relay by Dave/BitSyncmaster.
This is a modern replacement to a high failure part. Many a D owners have had relay failures caused by overheated, or delaminating, original RPM relays on long/highway trips. If your relay goes bad on a trip, you can a) jumper it for a short return trip, b) have and plug in a spare, or c) get this digital one and never think about it again.
I've been running one now for a few years and many miles here is an older review that still applies.
Personal Blog: DeLorean Ownership & Upkeep (Yeah, it hasn't been updated in a while, but some good stuff there if you look.)
->Last posting:"Smooth shifting on a 30+ year old car."
->Most read posting:"Going 100% LEDs on your car is a good idea, and more feasible than ever."
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Replace all flexible fuel lines and any rubber that coolant flows through, to include the short junctions in the pipes under the car. Silicone vacuum lines. Trailing arm bolts!
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 308
My VIN: 1597
A few years ago after buying my D I tried to follow the "must do mods" which was rather lenghty. I simplified it and just replaced anything that electricity ran through, gas touches or any part that moves and / or has weight on it.
"Owning a Delorean is like frying bacon naked."
Location: Gatlinburg, TN
Posts: 275
My VIN: 1968
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
As far as fuel, you mean all the fuel lines going from the fuel distributor to the injectors? I have been looking at that, but it is a bit pricey, so it may have to wait a bit.
I just finished changing all the coolant hoses, including the heater valve and hoses behind the engine :-) I'm also doing the vacuum hoses.
As far as the trailing arm bolts, I'm pretty sure I got them replaced years ago, but I do have a new set to put in. Mine is more difficult because it's an automatic, but it's on my list.
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
The mods I've done or plan to do to increase the reliability of my D:
Relay upgrades (I still have the original RPM installed but I do have a spare)
Plastic coolant tank replacement (I've heard they rupture under pressure, I still have the plastic installed but will be replacing it when I can)
Stainless clutch line (replaced when I replaced my master and slave cylinders)
Upgraded fuel pump with external check valve (came with the car but I just bought a used spare off a local Porsche guy)
Grounding upgrades (can be cheap and easy or not as cheap and extensive, I went extensive)
Coolant hose replacement with silicon hose (planned for Spring)
Coolant active bleeder system (I bought Hervey's but haven't installed it yet)
The ones below are ones I've seen done that just sound like they are a good idea for upgrades:
Stock radiator replacement (I've seen 10 year old plastic ones crack, ours are 30)
Stock radiator fan replacement (lower amp fans take some of the load off your circuits)
Water pump replacement with one with a bolt on pulley
Upgraded alternator (could be just a better DMC unit or an upgrade from another car)
None of the stuff above will get you any extra power out of the engine but they will keep you off the side of the road.
Red
VIN 4534
Born - October 1981
Brought back to life - July 2011
Red
VIN 4534
Born - October 1981
Brought back to life - July 2011
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Big +1 to the grounds, radiator, water pump, coolant tank, alternator and cooling fan updates. The grounds, alternator and fan updates will make a huge difference in the car's behavior (at least they did in mine). Hervey's ground cables alone made an immediate and enormous difference - best 40 bucks and 40 minutes you'll spend. The other updates are great for long term reliability and safety.
Last edited by jawn101; 12-17-2011 at 06:42 PM.
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log