CV Joints and Lip Seals?

[sean]

I just noticed how good this pic is. That oring at the base of the spindle should be replaced while doing he lip seals. It can be tough to see sometimes while the transmission is in the car.

[jawn101]

I just noticed how good this pic is. That oring at the base of the spindle should be replaced while doing he lip seals. It can be tough to see sometimes while the transmission is in the car.

Crap!!! That's what those were for!! I have them and couldn't remember where they went.

Well, they'll get done when we drop and split the trans I guess. Thanks for the reminder, Sean

Also, credit where it's due... Clint took all these photos

[mburshtain]

This thread was very helpful and I was wondering if there are any new insights discovered since this thread was written.
Can anyone comment on their recent experiences replacing o-rings and lip seals? I am curious to know which vendor sells products which proven to be efficient.
I recently did this job and I am experiencing a minor leak on both of my output shaft lip seals, while I had no leak on the right side to begin with. (I decided to replace it as my left side was sweating)

[kings1527]

This thread was very helpful and I was wondering if there are any new insights discovered since this thread was written.
Can anyone comment on their recent experiences replacing o-rings and lip seals? I am curious to know which vendor sells products which proven to be efficient.
I recently did this job and I am experiencing a minor leak on both of my output shaft lip seals, while I had no leak on the right side to begin with. (I decided to replace it as my left side was sweating)

Just did this job the other day by using this thread as well as the thread located over on Today and it was surprisingly a breeze for me. I used materials from PJ Grady and everything was great. Some points of interest:

-purchase a 6mm LONG pin punch to get the pin out of the axle flange. Absolute key piece of equipment here. Don't substitute SAE size or you'll mess the pin up. Not a bad idea to purchase two more of the $0.50 pins just in case.

-take note of the direction that you're driving the pin out to make sure you don't lock it in place in the transmission. Avoiding problems here is super simple to do; just take note when you're doing it.

-when pulling the old seal out, just go out and purchase a seal puller if you don't have one. Makes this part sooooooo easy and fast. Totally worth $10-15 for a good one that you'll keep forever.

-don't forget to change out the o-ring once you pull the flange. You'll need a pick to get it out.

-some say to make sure the split of the pin is facing AWAY from the transmission during re-installation. The theory is that if there's an oil leak, the solid part of the pin will stop the leak rather than traveling through the split and out.

-get some 2" PVC pipe to help you drive and seat the new seal. And that seal doesn't have to be driven flush; keep a tad of the seal protruding just a wee bit.

-pack the inside of the new seals with grease before installing them.

Easy job here. On a 1-10 scale, it's a 3 for me.

[mburshtain]

Just did this job the other day by using this thread as well as the thread located over on Today and it was surprisingly a breeze for me. I used materials from PJ Grady and everything was great. Some points of interest:

-purchase a 6mm LONG pin punch to get the pin out of the axle flange. Absolute key piece of equipment here. Don't substitute SAE size or you'll mess the pin up. Not a bad idea to purchase two more of the $0.50 pins just in case.

-take note of the direction that you're driving the pin out to make sure you don't lock it in place in the transmission. Avoiding problems here is super simple to do; just take note when you're doing it.

-when pulling the old seal out, just go out and purchase a seal puller if you don't have one. Makes this part sooooooo easy and fast. Totally worth $10-15 for a good one that you'll keep forever.

-don't forget to change out the o-ring once you pull the flange. You'll need a pick to get it out.

-some say to make sure the split of the pin is facing AWAY from the transmission during re-installation. The theory is that if there's an oil leak, the solid part of the pin will stop the leak rather than traveling through the split and out.

-get some 2" PVC pipe to help you drive and seat the new seal. And that seal doesn't have to be driven flush; keep a tad of the seal protruding just a wee bit.

-pack the inside of the new seals with grease before installing them.

Easy job here. On a 1-10 scale, it's a 3 for me.

Thanks for your tips.
Did you use a drive shaft sleeve?


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[kings1527]

Thanks for your tips.
Did you use a drive shaft sleeve?


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Not the speedi-sleeve that most people use. Mine had been done in the past before my ownership and speedi-sleeves were used and they were severely distorted when I did this job. Grady's is stainless and resists distortion, as well. Worth the extra money.

edit: I should say that when you order them from Grady, he has everything already installed on the flanges. Just slide the new flange on the stub axle once you get the old flange off and you're all set

[DMCMW Dave]

Not the speedi-sleeve that most people use. Mine had been done in the past before my ownership and speedi-sleeves were used and they were severely distorted when I did this job. Grady's is stainless and resists distortion, as well. Worth the extra money.

edit: I should say that when you order them from Grady, he has everything already installed on the flanges. Just slide the new flange on the stub axle once you get the old flange off and you're all set

Speedi Sleeves are stainless. They can be tricky to install correctly. The distortion is caused by improper installation.

[FABombjoy]

Speedi Sleeves are stainless. They can be tricky to install correctly. The distortion is caused by improper installation.

Yes, 1000% !!

I went through a few Speedi-sleeves before getting the technique down. The name is a misnomer as they take some time to install properly.

If the pitting is bad (it probably is) you'll want to lightly file/sand the old sealing surface to knock down the edges of the crater. I used a little Dremel flap-sander wheel on mine to prep for sleeve install.

A properly installed speedi-sleeve should have a 100% uniform appearance, completely free of distortion or "impressions" of the underlying material. If it's anything but perfect cut it off, address the problem, and install a new one.

[David T]

[QUOTE=FABombjoy;258336]Yes, 1000% !!

I went through a few Speedi-sleeves before getting the technique down. The name is a misnomer as they take some time to install properly.



I think the reason they chose that name is because it is a fast repair in contrast to other options. While it does take some "finesse" to use it, it is a cheap and fast way to save the part. It is also a more permanent solution because it is a LOT harder and tougher than the original surface.

[mburshtain]

Yes, 1000% !!

I went through a few Speedi-sleeves before getting the technique down. The name is a misnomer as they take some time to install properly.

If the pitting is bad (it probably is) you'll want to lightly file/sand the old sealing surface to knock down the edges of the crater. I used a little Dremel flap-sander wheel on mine to prep for sleeve install.

A properly installed speedi-sleeve should have a 100% uniform appearance, completely free of distortion or "impressions" of the underlying material. If it's anything but perfect cut it off, address the problem, and install a new one.

Thank you !
Where do I get the speedi-sleeve? directly from one of the vendors?