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Thread: CV Joints and Lip Seals?

  1. #11
    Banned
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean View Post
    Hervey does have a great price and if you're on fence about rebuilding them yourself get his unit. The boot clamps do require a tool to install correctly.
    You could also drive to Seans house if you are within 10 or so hours of Atlanta. I drove out there and for the cost of fuel, hotel, boots/grease, and food, I managed to get mine rebuilt and had a mini vacation for $9 less than it would have cost to have ordered the ones from Hervey. Hervey's are a good deal though. Not everyone is as crazy as I am to drive over a thousand miles in one weekend.
    Last edited by stevedmc; 01-05-2012 at 10:59 PM.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Evildeli's Avatar
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    I bought Houston's boot kits, studied Sean's PDF and rebuilt my CV's over the weekend. Here's my notes;

    Invest in sidewalk chalk, if you don't have a kid. I wanted to put the axles back on the same way the came off and so I used chalk to mark "T" from the trans side, and "W" on the wheel side. The less I have to worry about the better

    Put the car on jacks. I thought about going with ramps but found that I needed to use and open wrench instead of socket due to the limited space. I would then take off the accessible bolts, release the parking brake, spin the wheels until more bolts were visible. Then I'd enable the parking brake again and continue working.

    Reassemble off the rod. When everything comes apart, there is so much black grease that it makes it hard to figure out anything. And of course taking apart is easier than putting back together. When I finally got to putting everything back in place, I placed the inner race back on the rod first and started putting the ball bearings back in. At best I could only get 3 of the 6 back in. Took me nearly 40 minutes. It felt like a puzzle. Eventually I took everything off the rod and tried rebuilding. Turns out by having the rood out of the way of the inner race, I had more leverage to rotate everything.

    Brackets were the death of me. I tried using Houston's brackets to secure the boots, but I've never worked with those type before. I found I couldn't tighten down the large brackets and the small brackets were way too big for the small end. Again, I've never used those type before so I wanna place user error here. So I went to the auto store. They sold me SS bands. They looked great and simple to use but when I got home, I found them slipping(grease didn't help). So I went to ACE hardware to look for metal brackets that tighten with a screw driver, but they are all too wide. Checking the PDF again, I went with heavy duty black plastic ties from Auto Zone.

    Grease will get everywhere! Buy extra paper towels. Trust me, 1 roll is not enough. And buy extra gloves. I tore through so many gloves, and when I wasn't I would have to stop every once in a while and wipe the excess grease off my gloves. I ended up tracking grease in my driveway, garage, grass, tile floors, carpets, 1 of my cats, and my wife. She was not happy. I will most likely throw away all the cloths I wore. It's not worth throwing in the washing machine.

    Other than that, it turned out to be an easy, if not messing and time consuming project.

  3. #13
    Senior Member
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    Location:  Atlanta, GA

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    There was an awesome how-to about this on the old site. And here it is! - http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12...-the-CV-Joints
    With DeLoreans, real knowledge comes only with experience.

  4. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    My VIN:    03238 Grey & Black Hybrid - Auto - work in progress Former owner 10902 - Universal 93 Raffle Car

    Finally getting to this. My drivers side axle has a little slop in it, so I'll swap that out for a Hervey rebuild. Passenger side seems tight, boots in good condition. DMCCA replaced the boots 6 years ago, about 20k miles I guess. Do I replace both at the same time, or just leave it be if it looks good? Anyone had trouble with Herveys rebuilt drive shafts?

    Next, I'm going to do lip seals too. Can someone please give me a write up? I recall that it is critical to get the tension on the retaining nut perfect - please someone tell me how to not screw this up...

    Do I need to replace the 10090 flange pins?

    Many thanks.

    Tom
    Last edited by TTait; 01-31-2012 at 12:05 AM.

  5. #15
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TTait View Post
    Next, I'm going to do lip seals too. Can someone please give me a write up? I recall that it is critical to get the tension on the retaining nut perfect - please someone tell me how to not screw this up...

    Many thanks.

    Tom
    Don't take the retaining nut off at all. The manual is wrong. The o-ring there rarely (read never) leaks. You can remove and replace the seal without removing the nut.

    Most important thing is that when you drive the roll pin out of the flange pay attention to where it's going. It's pretty annoying to lock it up against the trans body and have no access to drive it back out.

    Otherwise there isn't much to write up. Take the old seal out, put the new one in with a seal driver. Also don't forget the small o-rings that are on the stub-axles inside the trans (get them out with a pick). DMC part 103120.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    Greenville SC

  6. #16
    Senior Member Dangermouse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evildeli View Post

    Grease will get everywhere! Buy extra paper towels. Trust me, 1 roll is not enough. And buy extra gloves. I tore through so many gloves, and when I wasn't I would have to stop every once in a while and wipe the excess grease off my gloves. I ended up tracking grease in my driveway, garage, grass, tile floors, carpets, 1 of my cats, and my wife. She was not happy. I will most likely throw away all the cloths I wore. It's not worth throwing in the washing machine.


    Very true - happy memories.

    Extra tip - have a trashcan with a big plastic bag inside very nearby so you can just drop everything in it.

    I should have done my lip seals at the same time, but neglected to.
    Dermot
    VIN 2743, B/A, Frame 2227, engine 2320

    I don't always drive cars, but when I do, I prefer DeLoreans

    http://www.will-to-live.org

    No-one is to stone anyone, even, and I want to make this absolutely clear, even if they do say "carburetor"

  7. #17
    Senior Member aludden's Avatar
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    How likely is it for the ball bearings in there to be bad? My boots have been replaced before, so they are broken but not torn apart - the bearings have not been too exposed.
    It would be a pain to have it all taken apart and then find out I need to order more parts.

  8. #18
    Not dead yet, also Admin. sean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aludden View Post
    How likely is it for the ball bearings in there to be bad? My boots have been replaced before, so they are broken but not torn apart - the bearings have not been too exposed.
    It would be a pain to have it all taken apart and then find out I need to order more parts.
    I've never seen a set of DeLorean CV bearings go bad and I've rebuilt a ton of these things. This is not to say that it cant happen but if the boots are not torn or off and there is grease in there the likelihood is low. Also, there are no part numbers for the innards so you'd have to find someone who would sell you some innards, I have some if you need them but doubt you will.
    eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
    K-Jet: Causing electrical issues since November 5th 1955

  9. #19
    Senior Member aludden's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave View Post
    [...] Also don't forget the small o-rings that are on the stub-axles inside the trans (get them out with a pick). DMC part 103120.
    I have an auto trans, so do you mean part 103691 for me?

  10. #20
    Not dead yet, also Admin. sean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aludden View Post
    I have an auto trans, so do you mean part 103691 for me?
    Yup, #3 on the diagram:

    4-5-7.jpg
    from www.delorean.com
    eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
    K-Jet: Causing electrical issues since November 5th 1955

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