CV Joints and Lip Seals?

[DMCMW Dave]

I have an auto trans, so do you mean part 103691 for me?

Yes they are the same part.

I've never seen the balls in the CV joint go bad, but I've seen a few where they were driven with the boots torn open for a long time (full of dirt/water) and the outer race gets very worn. This will lead to clicking/clunking in the joint. You will see shiny areas in the race where the balls make contact, but they should only be shiny. If the areas have any depth at all they are too worn.

They make good paperweights though.

[dmc6960]

Yes they are the same part.

I've never seen the balls in the CV joint go bad, but I've seen a few where they were driven with the boots torn open for a long time (full of dirt/water) and the outer race gets very worn. This will lead to clicking/clunking in the joint. You will see shiny areas in the race where the balls make contact, but they should only be shiny. If the areas have any depth at all they are too worn.

They make good paperweights though.

If you're referring to mine from 7-8 years ago, I could have swore there were at least 2 if not 3 bad balls in that joint.

For those wondering, it wasn't rebuildable.

[DMCMW Dave]

If you're referring to mine from 7-8 years ago, I could have swore there were at least 2 if not 3 bad balls in that joint.

For those wondering, it wasn't rebuildable.

I forgot about that one. I've see a couple since but not as bad.

[TTait]

More questions as things come apart...

While so much is apart, I'm thinking about the rear bearings, which are original and have close to 100k miles... having removed the large nut and hub assembly with the lug studs, and with the drive axle removed, how does the outboard drive shaft come out of the bearing/hub carrier? Do I just put the nut on the end of the shaft and use a hammer to drive it in, or is there a proper way to do it?

I presume I must then rent a tool to draw the bearing out of the carrier and then press the new one in, or do I need to take the entire assembly to a shop and have them do this work?

With regard to the drive shaft, it appears that there is no specific end for the transmission versus the end for the wheel, or am I missing something?

When I put the lip seals in, do I need a sealant?

[TTait]

I had rips in the boots on both axles - in both cases the inboard boot. I'm guessing that one flexes more...

[sean]

Do I just put the nut on the end of the shaft and use a hammer to drive it in, or is there a proper way to do it?
?

Press them out and press them in. Take them to a shop if you don't have a press.

With regard to the drive shaft, it appears that there is no specific end for the transmission versus the end for the wheel, or am I missing something?

They are reversable, no dedicated side.

When I put the lip seals in, do I need a sealant

If you install an OEM lip seal with the felt liner I think it's recommended to apply some grease to the seal. If you are installing a modern replacement no sealant is required.

[TTait]

Press them out and press them in. Take them to a shop if you don't have a press.

Is this something I can do with a large gear puller and washers or sockets etc, or rent a tool from auto zone, or does it need to come off the car? If off the car can I use my vise? I assume no to all of the above, but just confirming...

[Nicholas R]

A press is not needed for this job. I did mine today and it was a breeze.



This is the tool you use to remove them. I bought one today at O'Reily for 9.99 then found out Harbor Freight had it for $7.99, oh well.
Be sure to pull them outward. I made this mistake on the first one. Pulled it inward and it was almost impossible. The second one I pulled outward; popped right out.

This is the tool you use to put the new ones in:


I rented one of these today from Autozone. (or harbor freight for $30-$40 depending on the kit). Just make sure you tap them in straight, and drive from the outside in.

I dont think this is a job you can do on the car. If you do, you're going to have to get pretty creative with your installation and removal because the differential shaft will be sticking through the seal making it next to impossible to pull out or drive in. When I did mine today, not only did I have the transmission out of the car, I had the casing split and the differential out. I'm not aware of any other way. Plus if you drive the one on the side with the giant nut too far in, you can pop the little retaining plate/ring. Good luck.

[sean]

Is this something I can do with a large gear puller and washers or sockets etc, or rent a tool from auto zone, or does it need to come off the car? If off the car can I use my vise? I assume no to all of the above, but just confirming...

Take them to a shop if you don't have a press.

Off the car

[jawn101]

This is the tool you use to put the new ones in:


I rented one of these today from Autozone. (or harbor freight for $30-$40 depending on the kit). Just make sure you tap them in straight, and drive from the outside in.

Nick - what does Autozone call this tool? I'm trying to find it on their site under loan a tool but I must be using the wrong keywords.