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Thread: Replacing the Catalytic Convertor

  1. #11
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Julee's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Crystal Lke, IL

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    Quote Originally Posted by DPI JOSH View Post
    Trailer the vehicle from the facility and the customer must sign a waiver stating the vehicle is intended for off road track use only.
    My conscience says no thank you.

  2. #12
    President, DeLorean Industries
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCMW Julee View Post
    My conscience says no thank you.

    Cars for circle track, drag racing and basically any type of racing are extensively modified mostly by commercial shops to participate in these events. State laws simply prohibit the vehicle from being licensed by the owner for street use requiring transportation of the vehicle by other means. The professional method/ approach we suggest is exactly how it should be done. We as shops, Julee, are not responsible for vehicle owners' actions and what they decide to do with their cars post-repair. It is not illegal to sell components to remove emissions components but tampering is, if the car is to be licensed.

    BTW this is simply a debate and not an attack on you or the subject:

    -DMC sells converter delete pipes for the Stage I offering. It is unknown if installs have or will occur.

    -DMC services Island TT cars with no converters and allows the vehicles to leave in a non-emission compliant form.

    -DMC affiliate vendors also sell converter delete components to replace the factory converter with a test pipe.

    Aside from your header system and our system, no other exhaust suppliers for the Delorean community sell a system in the United States that does not involve extensive tampering. DMC- Europe's does not use converters, UK Exhaust upgrade has no converters, Hervey's Chinese Special uses no converters etc. We all see vehicles with these modifications come through our doors and take no actions to make them emissions compliant. Is this something we should be guilty about as well?

    So while I understand being righteous on the subject and would never help someone who was going to break the law with my assistance, we all push the boundaries to various limits in our own ways in this business.

    You are only guilty with a conscience if you modify a car and then help the owner illegally pass state emissions testing. That would be wrong.

    In closing-
    -it is not illegal to produce the components for resale (we both do)
    -it is widely accepted to look the other way (we both do)
    -a federal offense can not occur without a paper trail. If the invoice doesn't state it happened, it is he said she said.
    -owners are responsible for their own actions. We can not control their choices outside of our facilities.

    Happy New Years!
    Last edited by Delorean Industries; 01-01-2012 at 10:59 AM.

  3. #13
    Delorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Companies sell radar detectors but just because you can buy them is no defense for speeding. We all do what we feel comfortable with and up to that point everything is fine till you get caught. Like letting R-12 loose and not catching it for example. A "test pipe" is sold for "testing purposes" and is not meant to be left in (Ha Ha). If we all followed every law life would not be as interesting but just be aware of what you are doing and make a conscious decision as to what side of the line you want to fall on (or over). Any small increase in power is not worth removing the cat. BTW in most States the PRV runs so clean you CAN pass emissions without it! Till they actually go looking for it! A better strategy would be to gut it and leave it in place. With no pre and post O2 sensors no one would know.
    David Teitelbaum

  4. #14
    Senior Member
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    Basically DMCMW Dave said it best above.
    But, firstly open up the engine cover and remove the two bolts and remove the rubber/steel mount that holds the top passenger side corner of the muffler.
    You can now back it onto some ramps or use my method of placing the rear on some jack stands.

    Proper use of the floor jack and jack stands on the front and rear of the DeLorean.
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...f-the-DeLorean.

    Next open the Parts Manual to page 1/5/0.
    Remove item number 47, 48, 49, 50. On my D this clamp was incredibly rusted so I replaced it with a new one from either www.specialtauto.com or www.dmcnorthwest.com.
    Make sure the old or the new clamp will fit around the replacement cat converter. If it doesnít fit youíre going to have to figure out a way to make it fit.

    Next remove the bolts securing the rubber/steel mounts from the bottom corners of the muffler.

    Is your heat shield a whiter fiber board? The original white fiber boards are asbestos and if it is falling apart donít use it. I replaced mine with an aluminum one for $72.95.
    http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/engine.html

    With a 12Ē breaker bar with 1/2Ē drive and a proper length extension(s) you can reach horizontally all four nuts holding the cat to the exhaust pipe. No need for any universal joints. I donít remember the exact length of extension(s).

    If the honeycomb matrix inside the entry point of your cat appears melted then you have been running rich for quite a while. This maybe necessary then to also replace your O2 sensor, also called Lambda Probe item 13 page 2/3/0.

    The original gasket for the old cat will likely fall apart so make sure the surfaces are smooth and clean for the new gasket with your new cat. No gasket sealer is necessary.

    During reassembly install all fasteners loose. Donít tighten anything until you have both the cat and muffler hung in place including connecting those rubber/steel mounts. And then tighten everything starting with the four nuts at the cat.
    Mark Vanyo
    Links to DeLorean related web sites!
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?19...s-Part-I-of-II.

  5. #15
    Senior Member
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    I have the original asbestos shield..what do I do?

    So, I have the original asbestos shield, as yes, it id falling apart. Having watched all the horror movies about asbestos removal over the past 20 years, should i even touch this thing? I want it gone, will replace with the really fancy Delorean shield, but don't think I should even literally touch it. How bad is it to actually remove? What have you done to get it off your car and disposed of? Am I being stupidly paranoid or cautiously safe?

    TIA, Doogie,..new owner with "asbestosphobia"

  6. #16
    Senior Member mluder's Avatar
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    Location:  Happy Valley, OR

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    My VIN:    4456 - Owner since March 2011

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    I too have the original asbestos sheild. Asbestos is only dangerous if the fibers become airborn.

    My advice for removal. Wear gloves and at least a dust mask (you can by a cratridge style rated for asbestos if you REALLY want). Get a squirt bottle of water and completely drench the heat sheild. This will minimize airborn particles. Then proceed with removal. When removed put it in a plastic garbage bag and seal it off good. It is "supposed" to be disposed of in a certain way but that's up to you to decide...

    My question is this... The asbestos was resistant to heat transfer - hence the term shield. How do the new metal ones work? It seems as thought they would absorb the heat and make things worse?

    Steve
    Cheers
    Steven Maguire
    #4456


    IT'S A TRAP!!!!!

  7. #17
    Senior Member mluder's Avatar
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    Thanks again for the CAT, Mark.

    Wondering about your jackstand proceedure... I have four race ramp wheel cribs.
    http://www.discountramps.com/wheel-cribs.htm
    I assume the procedure is the same. Jack from the center of the frame front/back/both and put the wheel cribs in place and then lower the jack and remove. I think it sould be pretty stable at that point. I have some wheel chocks to throw on the fronts if I just jack up the back so I wouldn't think it will esacpe.

    Thoughts?
    Steve


    Quote Originally Posted by outatym2001 View Post
    Basically DMCMW Dave said it best above.
    But, firstly open up the engine cover and remove the two bolts and remove the rubber/steel mount that holds the top passenger side corner of the muffler.
    You can now back it onto some ramps or use my method of placing the rear on some jack stands.

    Proper use of the floor jack and jack stands on the front and rear of the DeLorean.
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...f-the-DeLorean.

    Next open the Parts Manual to page 1/5/0.
    Remove item number 47, 48, 49, 50. On my D this clamp was incredibly rusted so I replaced it with a new one from either www.specialtauto.com or www.dmcnorthwest.com.
    Make sure the old or the new clamp will fit around the replacement cat converter. If it doesnít fit youíre going to have to figure out a way to make it fit.

    Next remove the bolts securing the rubber/steel mounts from the bottom corners of the muffler.

    Is your heat shield a whiter fiber board? The original white fiber boards are asbestos and if it is falling apart donít use it. I replaced mine with an aluminum one for $72.95.
    http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/engine.html

    With a 12Ē breaker bar with 1/2Ē drive and a proper length extension(s) you can reach horizontally all four nuts holding the cat to the exhaust pipe. No need for any universal joints. I donít remember the exact length of extension(s).

    If the honeycomb matrix inside the entry point of your cat appears melted then you have been running rich for quite a while. This maybe necessary then to also replace your O2 sensor, also called Lambda Probe item 13 page 2/3/0.

    The original gasket for the old cat will likely fall apart so make sure the surfaces are smooth and clean for the new gasket with your new cat. No gasket sealer is necessary.

    During reassembly install all fasteners loose. Donít tighten anything until you have both the cat and muffler hung in place including connecting those rubber/steel mounts. And then tighten everything starting with the four nuts at the cat.
    Cheers
    Steven Maguire
    #4456


    IT'S A TRAP!!!!!

  8. #18
    Let's see if you bastards can do 90. dvonk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doogie View Post
    Am I being stupidly paranoid or cautiously safe?
    its not paranoia if it can actually kill you, asbestos is nasty stuff.

    you'll want a P100 respirator, not just a 'dust mask.' the asbestos fibers that cause mesothelioma are microscopic and a little dust mask will not protect your lungs properly. i got my reusable P100 respirator at the local hardware store (Menards) for $40. im sure you can find them cheaper online. its great for other regular dusty jobs as well, and it also filters out chemicals & smells like ammonia, paint fumes, etc.

    disclaimer: use at your own risk. be sure to read the precautions and instructions included with the respirator.
    Obtain-O-Meter: 128%
    as of 2016/08/04
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  9. #19
    Formally hmm252000
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Hillsboro, OR

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    Quote Originally Posted by mluder View Post
    I assume the procedure is the same. Jack from the center of the frame front/back/both and put the wheel cribs in place and then lower the jack and remove. I think it sould be pretty stable at that point. I have some wheel chocks to throw on the fronts if I just jack up the back so I wouldn't think it will esacpe.
    Just jacking up the rear should be fine. I assume your jack goes high enough to get those cribs under the wheels? You might want to get some jack stands for later so you can remove the wheels. They aren't that expensive.

    If you like, you are welcome to come to my place where I have all the tools to do this. Only drawback is I'm leaving town for a week this coming weekend. So it will be two weeks before you can stop by (unless you come over on a weekday evening).

    Chris

  10. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Renton, WA

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    Quote Originally Posted by mluder View Post
    My question is this... The asbestos was resistant to heat transfer - hence the term shield. How do the new metal ones work? It seems as thought they would absorb the heat and make things worse?

    Steve
    We are somewhat at the mercy of what the DeLorean parts vendors sell. With my limited technical knowledge I read somewhere that aluminum makes a better heat shield than stainless steel. They are both rust resistant so I figured why not go with the heat shield I mention in my earlier post. Toby Peterson told me many full moons ago that he was working on what sounded to me like an exotic materials heat shield. I have not heard of any updates since then and the low price of $72.95 was right for me so I bought an aluminum one.
    Something in my memory says the aluminum shield came with regular plated steel nuts and bolts to attach it. Iím pretty sure I threw those out in the recycle bin and bought all stainless steel nuts and bolts.

    Quote Originally Posted by mluder View Post
    Jack from the center of the frame front/back/both and put the wheel cribs in place and then lower the jack and remove. I think it sould be pretty stable at that point. I have some wheel chocks to throw on the fronts if I just jack up the back so I wouldn't think it will esacpe.

    Thoughts?
    Steve
    The difficulty is getting the frame way up high so that the wheels are up high enough to place those wheel cribs under them.
    I use a small compact floor jack from Sears and it only raises the frame high enough to get a few clicks from the jack stands. I would like a huge floor jack but the compact one suits me just fine.
    Mark Vanyo
    Links to DeLorean related web sites!
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?19...s-Part-I-of-II.

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