CV joints are all freshly regreased, inspected, reinstalled and tight, so it ain't them
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 393
My VIN: 2399
Club(s): (DMA)
CV joints are all freshly regreased, inspected, reinstalled and tight, so it ain't them
Tyler Butler
Vin 2399 - July 81 Black Interior, Automatic
Mine used to have a horrible wobble at fast Highway speeds. I am still working on tracking down the problem as we speak. I am going to do an overhaul of my steering rack along with with adjustable lower links on the rear.
I believe the awful wobble is caused by the car being out of alignment.
Living The Dream Since 2005 - VIN#3997
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 393
My VIN: 2399
Club(s): (DMA)
Aligned less than a week ago
Tyler Butler
Vin 2399 - July 81 Black Interior, Automatic
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Did it wobble before the alignment? Maybe it was done wrong or you lost a shim off a rear wheel. I have read that the universal shims used at big box shops tend to fall out for some reason and that you are well advised to bring along some proper ones from a vendor.
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 393
My VIN: 2399
Club(s): (DMA)
Just jacked up the back wheels, no fore or aft movement on either one unfortunately. It did shake before alignment, no better after, and the guy used the proper shims. So still clueless
Tyler Butler
Vin 2399 - July 81 Black Interior, Automatic
Posts: 39
I just found a loose spot on my rear end that may sound like what you have as well. Not trying to hijack the thread, but it may be your solution too.
On my passenger rear wheel, the trailing arm has play at the two bolts securing it to the hub carrier. At the moment I have the struts out and am waiting for new shocks to arrive. With the spring tension off, when I lift the hub carrier up and down I can see the trailing arm move at the hub carrier bolts which makes a good clunk sound.
Now my question is, does this mean my trailing arm bolt holes are worn out, or will re-torquing the two bolts fix my problem? The bolts themselves don't move, just the trailing arm on the bolts, as if the holes of the trailing arm are bigger than the bolts going through them.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Maybe need new bushings?
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,583
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Typically a bent or out-of-balance rear wheel will show up as a shake in your belly and be more noticeable at certain speeds. It can also be a defective tire and you wouldn't always be able to see it. Run your hands around the sidewalls, sometimes you can feel a bump where the cords have shifted or separated. If it is a front tire you usually feel it in the steering wheel, especially on a Delorean because it doesn't have power steering to isolate you as much from the tires. Raise the car and put a piece of wood alongside each tire. Slowly rotate it and see if it moves in and out. Make sure all of the tires have the proper pressure and all of the lugs were tightened in the proper sequence to the correct torque.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 393
My VIN: 2399
Club(s): (DMA)
Finally figured out my issue the other day, bushings are bad on my front right upper control arm. Stiffening my entire front end apparently made it worse. Another suspension disassembly is in the near future =(
Tyler Butler
Vin 2399 - July 81 Black Interior, Automatic