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Thread: Body bolt stripped any suggestions.

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    I've not removed this bolt and I may not have a clear picture of what your up against. I'm assuming this bolt holds the fiberglass body to the shock tower. You need access to install a thread inseart. From what I gather, there's a aluminum washer bonded to the fiberglass to spread out the load.

    Since you only need to install a thread insert, why do you need to pry this aluminum off? How about drilling the hole slightly bigger? If need be use a hole saw and go a bit bigger. Once your done, you can just use a bigger washer to hold the body down.

    As far as thread inserts go, you might look into "riv-nuts".
    This same thought crossed my mind that perhaps I could enlarge the existing hole in the aluminum cup, where I could then use a Helicoil drill bit to prepare the frame hole for the Helicoil insert. I dismissed it as it seemed like that would be an easy solution...there had to be a gotcha in there somewhere. Are there really any easy solutions when it comes to a DeLorean? Unfortunately there are very few photos to draw firm conclusions on. I'm hesitant in blazing a trail where I don't have confidence in where it would lead and need to proceed cautiously.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    I've not removed this bolt and I may not have a clear picture of what your up against. I'm assuming this bolt holds the fiberglass body to the shock tower. You need access to install a thread inseart. From what I gather, there's a aluminum washer bonded to the fiberglass to spread out the load.

    Since you only need to install a thread insert, why do you need to pry this aluminum off? How about drilling the hole slightly bigger? If need be use a hole saw and go a bit bigger. Once your done, you can just use a bigger washer to hold the body down.

    As far as thread inserts go, you might look into "riv-nuts".
    This reminds me of something; there's a metal plate between the underbody and frame at the top of the shock tower, heads up if you get that cup thing out and start drilling for a timesert. I'll get a pic from below so you can see what to expect. (You can see the metal plate and the area where the nut is by looking into the wheel well.) You might be able to reach that nut with a long screwdriver & hold it while tightening the body bolt.

    *edit: Here's a pic from my last car before restoration, it looks possible to work through that opening to tighten or replace the nut.

    100_4981.jpg
    Last edited by Rich_NYS; 07-17-2021 at 09:29 AM.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post
    I'll get a pic from below so you can see what to expect.

    You can see the metal plate and the area where the nut is by looking into the wheel well. You might be able to reach that nut with a long screwdriver & hold it while tightening the body bolt.
    YES! A pic would be awesome. Thank you.

    I can see into that caged area, and I see a rusted nut and bolt spinning. Wedging a screwdriver in there through the slots will be how I will attack it...probably will need to saturate with PB blaster or some freeze spray.

    I believe this is a PO repair because the bolt they used seems to be bottoming out into the cage.

  4. #24
    Matt Drive Stainless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post
    This reminds me of something; there's a metal plate between the underbody and frame at the top of the shock tower, heads up if you get that cup thing out and start drilling for a timesert. I'll get a pic from below so you can see what to expect. (You can see the metal plate and the area where the nut is by looking into the wheel well.) You might be able to reach that nut with a long screwdriver & hold it while tightening the body bolt.

    *edit: Here's a pic from my last car before restoration, it looks possible to work through that opening to tighten or replace the nut.

    100_4981.jpg
    Good call, Rich.

  5. #25
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    Had an hour this morning. I was able to remove the bolt and the rusted nut using the screwdriver as a wedge on the nut technique.

    It is was not a factory bolt, it was longer. My guess it was longer to make it easier to get the nut on it because the nut could be positioned waiting for the bolt to essentially drop into it. A couple of turns on the bolt with a screwdriver wedge on the nut, and you've got a repair completed.

    Now the experiment begins.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drive Stainless View Post
    Good call, Rich.
    Thanks man!



    Quote Originally Posted by iflights View Post
    YES! A pic would be awesome. Thank you.

    Here's a couple pics I took yesterday. I'm not entirely sure of what I'm seeing, aside from the plate.

    Also, I experimented with a grabber tool. It fit into the "cage" at the top of the shock tower, I think that would be helpful if dealing with a loose nut (unless it's behind the wheel....like in my car.)

    Seeing the corrosion on this plate really highlights the differences between the southern car I had, and this New England car. I think it was briefly driven on road salt, or regularly in the rain. Thankfully the frame is in great shape so there's only a few random areas of corrosion on replaceable parts. Now I have another thing to address before reassembly...thanks a lot! -lol


    20210717_154035.jpg

    20210717_154052.jpg

  7. #27
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    Thanks Rich. Those pics were very helpful and helped validate the assumptions.

    Didn't have to remove the aluminum cup, just had to make the existing hole a little larger. Was able to use a tap to cut new threads in the shock tower steel and that metal plate shown in your photo.

    Dropped the Helicoil into position and tightened it up until the threads were at the bottom of the shock tower steel.

    Dropped the new fastener into the Helicoil and tightened it up to the recommended torque.

    Project now complete.

    Appreciate the assistance of this community in working through this challenge.

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