side marker(front and rear) blinker mod request

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Would someone please post the instructions for modifying the front and rear side markers to blink either in sync or simultanousley with the front/rear turn signals?
I know they used to be on DMCTalk before.

Also, how can this be done with LED side markers and front/rear turn signals?
Is the amount of light increase worth the money and time? If so, what are the part numbers that will fit?

Right now I have incandecent lighting for side markers and front and rear bulbs..

There used to be a post about rear taillight and brakelight LEDs....Is there a significant light increase upgrading them for the cost? Which LEDs work best?

Thanks!

Josh Q

[Notifier]

This article covers how to convert the front side markers, doesn't say anything about the rear side makers. I think they are wired differently so this modification will not work.


http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/markerflash.html

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Thanks for the link. I checked and I have a red, green, and black...I am assuming the instructions mean the green wire? Also, what is the easiest way to run the ground from the side marker to the front turn signal?
The rear should be the same hook up: ground from the rear side marker to the signal wire to the rear turn signal, correct?

[Notifier]

In all honesty, I'm not sure! I don't even have my Delorean in my possession yet to take a look at it (right now it's at DMCMW). I just know that was one of the modifications I was going to do as soon as I got it here and saved that link so I could figure it out! If you go here, there is a good wiring diagram to download and you may be able to figure out the color codes: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17...wiring-diagram Look around "F1" for the front light wiring schematic. What I am assuming according to their directions was you take the black wire from the side marker light, disconnect it from ground, and tap one into to the red/green (left side) and the other side to the green/white (right side). I would connect it temporarily until you know it works then worry about hiding and running the wires.

As far as the rears go, if you look around G1, H1, you see the rear lighting circuit. Those blacks (grounds) are connected up to the license plate lights. And I believe I read on the site before it went down about someone talking about wiring those up to flash. It could be done but needed some extra modification than the fronts. But I could be wrong! Personally, I wouldn't worry about the rears, if someone is behind you they are going to see the rear amber's anyway, and if they are past that they will see the front side lights blinking. But to each his own!

[Notifier]

This article also helps to explain how and why it works. Plus it's got a nice wiring diagram how it needs to be hooked up (although ignore the color codes in the article because it may not match what you are looking at).

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...rkerflash.html

[content22207]

Rears are imminently doable, and in fact are easier than the fronts. I've had flashing sidelights, front & rear, for nearly a decade now.

I have not had success grounding the side lights through LED bulbs in the original turn signal sockets. Incandescent bulbs work fine.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[lazabby]

Here are some additional instruction written by Jan van de Wouw:
Author/source: Jan van de Wouw, VIN#05141
________________________________________
As with all these modifications, do them at your own risk!
Work precise and concentrated, double check everything!

First get the materials needed:
-One or two Automotive relays, depending on whether you want to do one or both mods. Coil-voltage 12V,
contacts rated at a minimum of 10Amps Normally Open, preferably with an "eye"on the case to srew it in place.
-connectors (spades and scotch-locks) and a crimping tool.
-some wires, length according to where you want to put your relay(s)
-electrical tape
-at least SOME knowledge on electrics and wiring, even if only to understand what I'm writing...

Second make the wires to the LMS accessible, how you do this is your own choice, I did this mod when I had the center console out anyway.
If you have enough slack on the wires going to the switch, you can probably un plug is and either pull them out through the hole for the LMS,
or fold them back so you can reach them from under the dash.
When doing the Headlight modification it's neccesary to be able to reach the wires for the radio (LGW=LightGreen/White) or Hazard switch (G=Green) too.

If you have the wires in reach you need to decide which modification to perform, you can best do both of them at once,
allthough you "D"looses some of it's originality, it gaines in safety and comfort.

I'll describe both mods separately, but here's some info you'll need for either one:

There should be 5 wires going to/from the LM Switch (still connected to the wires!):
NU (Brown/Blue) = +12V Continuous
U (Blue) = +12V in second position: Headlights
B (Black) = Ground for backlighting
RO (Red/Orange) = +12V in First AND Second Position: backlighting
RG (Red/Green) = +12V in First AND Second Position: Perimiter Lights

Determining wire lenghts is easiest with the relay(s) installed, so screwing it/them down first is a good idea.
Make sure you can reach the connectors when istalled! I put mine beneath the console on the drivers side;
unscrewed a screw on the AC-ducting and put the relays on this screw.

In order for you to position the relays this "far"from the switch, in most cases you'll need to lengten the original wires to reach both switch AND relay.
When doing so, observe wire thicknesses and mak sure you allways use wires of the same thickness as the original ones. NEVER use any thinner wires,
doing so anyway MAY result in a meltdown or (ven worse) a fire when in use!
Make all connections stable, both mechanically as electrically end make sure to ahev everything insulated.

+++++

Taking the current load off of the LMS.

Cut the RG wire at some lenght from the switch, make sure you can still connect both ends to other wires!
The part coming from the switch needs to be connected to the coil of the relay, the part going into the harness gets connected to one of the contacts of the relay.
Now use a Scotch-Lock to splice a wire into the NU wire at the LMS and connect the other end to the second relay-contact.
Take a second Scotch-Lock and splice this one into the B wire at the switch, connect the still open end of the relay's coil to this wire.

You're done! The relay gets it's power from the switch, the load for the lights through the relay.
All the switch gets as load now is the current for the relay; about 0,1Amps, far less than the 4Amps the lights draw all together...

+++++

Disabling Headlights with the ignition in OFF-position.

Look above for the wire colors; cut the U wire far enough from the switch to be able to re-wire both ends.
Connect both wires to the contacts of the (second) relay. Wire one side of the coil of the relay to ground,
either by splicing it into the black wire at the LMS if you haven't done the other mod or by using a spade connector with a second spade on it at the ground connection on the other relay.

Now it's time to decide if you want your Headlights to be enabled in IGN-position II only, or in position I and II.
Personally I chose to enable them in both positions,; this resembles my other car...

If you want the lights enabled in BOTH positions, splice a wire into the LGW wire going to the radio, using a Scotch-Lock. Make the splice at the Harness side of the in-line fuse,
this way you can easily remove the radio without having to cut any wires.

For the lights to work only on IGN II use a Scotch-Lock to splice into the Green wire at the Hazard Lights Switch.

After doing either splice, connect the other end of the wire to the open end of the coil for the (second) relay.

If you've done all the way it should have been done, you shouldn't have any loose wires anymore and you should be able to check if all works as designed by me.
TEST THIS BEFORE REASEMBLING EVERYTHING!!!

With the INGNITION OFF, pushing the LMS to either position 1 or 2 should result in the perimeter lights coming on, a slight "click"can be heard at the first relay if you installed one.
If this happens you know your lights work and you can take comfort in knowing your LMS won't heat up any more.
Now turn on the ignition, depending on which splice you made you should hear a "click"in the desired position and with the LMS in position 2 the Headlights should come on.
Turning back the ignition should turn off the Headlights, but everything else stays on.

When something doesn't work this way DON'T PANIC! Just check everything again and use basic trouble shooting techniques to determine what went wrong.
If the lights worked as the factory made it when you started you should be able to successfully complete these modifications.

Good Luck!

JAN van de Wouw

[content22207]

ExteriorLightWiring.jpg

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Jan's instructions are for taking current load off the headlight switch.

Use Bill's diagram. The easiest way I found to get the wire through for the front was to use a coathanger with one end bent into a U-shape and the of the wire taped to it, and poke it through the hole in the fender until it came out under the headlight bucket. (Headlights removed for convenience during install.) I did both sides in about twenty minutes.

Note: have some extra screws on hand for the headlight brackets -- unless your luck fishing out screws from behind the fascia is better than mine, they will come in handy.

Farrar