I have found a car where the M6 bolt has stripped. I had to tap to next size. Think it was 5/16 thread. My puller does use all the tread of the M6 hole also.
I have found a car where the M6 bolt has stripped. I had to tap to next size. Think it was 5/16 thread. My puller does use all the tread of the M6 hole also.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Yep, that's the puller. I'm hitting the main screw. I even removed the plastic cover behind the wheel and put a pry bar against the back of the wheel and hit that (careful not to hit anything else). I thought maybe a shock from the back would help free it. It hasn't budged.
The m6 screws I bought were a little too short so I welded a 3 inch 5/16th screw head to head and then put that part through the puller. I was able to use about an inch or so of the m6's thread into the wheel. Unfortunately it still pulled the threads out.
Red
VIN 4534
Born - October 1981
Brought back to life - July 2011
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
I think I used M6 x 1.00 x 100 bolts. I made sure that screwed them in as far as possible (3/4 inch min). No issues getting it to release. Fwiw: a lug nut impact wrench works great if you have something like available to us on the puller.
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
In many cars, you can simply un bolt the wheel and pull, and you'll have the wheel. Not so with the Delo... I did the air hammer trick just yesterday, and yep - popped it right off, no problem. I'd recommend you lube the splines before reassembly. Also, Air hammers are about $30 at harbor freight, and their cheapo ones work just fine for this job.
Still rocking the Ducellier
Thanks everyone. The air hammer worked like a charm. Even my crappy little Coleman that is several years old. Not even half a second of hammering and the wheel popped off.
Red
VIN 4534
Born - October 1981
Brought back to life - July 2011
Using the $20 loaner pulling tool from Autozone and 120mm bolts (the only option I could find) it was a breeze.
-James . . . "Life without knowledge is death in disguise." ~ H.P.G.
I can't get mine off. I had it off before, it came off easy. Now. I won't budge. I tried a puller, I tore the threads out. I tried a pulley puller and that didn't work. So I guess I need to try the air hammer. I don't know how that works though. Can someone shed some light or photos on the process?
Living The Dream Since 2005 - VIN#3997
Location: Hill Country, TX
Posts: 1,579
My VIN: Formerly 2329
Piece of cake.... cheap air chisel with the pointy tip works best. Merely put the tip in the little dimple in the end of the steering column. Hold the wheel with one hand, pulling towards you. Trigger the gun and vibrate the hell out of the column. It will come right off. Warren taught me that trick before he retired from DMCH. If you don't have an air chisel, try just rapidly tapping with a small hammer. It's the vibrations you're looking for, not pounding.
Owen
I.Brew.Beer.
I'd also recommend a nice dose of penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench first. Then a few taps with a hammer may be all you need.
-James . . . "Life without knowledge is death in disguise." ~ H.P.G.
I've tried a hammer to no avail. Air chisel all the way.
Jim Reeve
DMC6960
D-Status: - Getting some Spring exercise