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Thread: Broke slave cylinder bolt

  1. #11
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stainless View Post
    I don't understand how seeing the slave cylinder better would have prevented the bolt from snapping. Can you explain?
    Maybe not the bolt but you would have seen the pipe twisting. I got mine off using an impact wrench.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  2. #12
    Tweedledumber DCUK Martin's Avatar
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    I have a bag of fittings for the slave cylinder and make up my own pipe as and when I need to - twisting off is a common problem. If you have a bit of the snapped bolt exposed, it should survive with just one bolt - the bolts do very little mechanical work retaining the cylinder because it pushes onto the bellhousing.
    Martin Gutkowski
    -------------
    Very part time DeLoreaner...

  3. #13
    Senior Member
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    My VIN:    03238 Grey & Black Hybrid - Auto - work in progress Former owner 10902 - Universal 93 Raffle Car

    If you're looking to make the best of it without repairing the bolt, you might also be able to find a small clamp you can fit over the assembly. The remaining stud will keep it from shifting and the clamp would ensure everything stayed in place.

  4. #14
    DeLorean owner since 2011 Stainless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Maybe not the bolt but you would have seen the pipe twisting. I got mine off using an impact wrench.
    I was staring at the clutch pipe while attempting to undo it from below the vehicle the whole time. There was nothing that I could have done to prevent it from twisting, so doing it from the top wouldn't have made a bit of difference. Luckily it sounds like I'll be able to bypass the clutch pipe anyway, which is great news.
    Jared L.

    June '81, manual, black inter. VIN 2087
    Other cars: 2012 Toyota Sienna, 2007 Mazda 6, 1999 Jeep Cherokee
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  5. #15
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Your broken bolt and twisted pipe sound like typical issues when dealing with Rust and Aluminum Oxide corrosion. Was this your problem? Not that it really matters after the fact. Does your car have significant surface rust on steel parts?
    Last edited by DMC5180; 01-23-2012 at 06:03 PM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  6. #16
    DeLorean owner since 2011 Stainless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Your broken bolt and twisted pipe sound like typical issues when dealing with Rust and Aluminum Oxide corrosion. Was this your problem? Not that it really matters after the fact.
    That sounds about right. Once I got the clutch pipe removed, I was finally able to disconnect it from the clutch pipe bulkhead connector. Once disconnected, I found a white powder substance along the threads, indicating the corrosion you described. I can only assume that was also the cause for the slave cylinder bolt, but since the threads are still in the bell housing, I may never know for sure.
    Jared L.

    June '81, manual, black inter. VIN 2087
    Other cars: 2012 Toyota Sienna, 2007 Mazda 6, 1999 Jeep Cherokee
    DeLorean blog: http://deloreanblog.blogspot.com/

  7. #17
    DeLorean owner since 2011 Stainless's Avatar
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    Clutch line close to exhaust pipe

    I had time to finish the install of the slave cylinder today. I was able to get enough slack out of the SS clutch line to install it directly to the slave instead of getting a new clutch pipe. It seems like the SS clutch line is dang close to the exhaust front pipe. Here's how it sits now:


    Is this too close to the exhaust front pipe? If it is, how have you guys gotten your line further away from it?

    By the way, just as an update, the new clutch master and slave seem to working great. That's definitely not a job that I want to repeat anytime soon. Bleeding the system went very smoothly and the pedal is now as firm as ever. The one missing bolt on the slave cylinder luckily is not going be a problem at all.
    Jared L.

    June '81, manual, black inter. VIN 2087
    Other cars: 2012 Toyota Sienna, 2007 Mazda 6, 1999 Jeep Cherokee
    DeLorean blog: http://deloreanblog.blogspot.com/

  8. #18
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
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    I have a suspicion that the folks doing this mod have headers or other full dual exhaust. That looks too close to me, remember that although the line is stainless on the outside it is still plastic on the inside. The factory pipe does not have that problem.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    Greenville SC

  9. #19
    Not a DeLorean Guru
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    I agree with Dave. That thing is going to get exposed to some major heat with how close it is to that cross-over pipe. Not a good thing.
    -Mike

    My engine twists my frame.

    1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap completed
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  10. #20
    Not dead yet, also Admin. sean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethmike View Post
    I agree with Dave. That thing is going to get exposed to some major heat with how close it is to that cross-over pipe. Not a good thing.
    +2

    Was it not possible to install it above the crossover pipe? Maybe zip tie it to the AC hose there.
    eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
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