car only starts sometimes no spark

[coreydmc]

so ill open the front trunk and remove access panel to fuel pump and disconnect one wire right? How do I release pressure?

[Ron]

Yes, and secure it of coarse -- Do the ground (-) side..if not sure wrap it with a little tape.

I'd put the cold start valve in a container and crack the fitting...then tighten it back. Replace the copper washers if they aren't new and keep an eye on it for a while just in case. It goes without saying to USE EXTREME CAUTION. And have an extinguisher handy. Really!!!

Clean/dry/check the plugs first or you will be wasting your time...

(Sorry for delay in response...our power keeps going in and out.)

[coreydmc]

ok im on it!

[coreydmc]

Thanks for all of your help guys! I finally got it running. I cut off the ends on the wires at the coil and the resister. Replaced them with new ends. I also repaired the wires on the TTS. I cleaned all the plugs and removed all the old fuel. Car started right up! I have a question though....on the ceramic resistor on the firewall there are 3 black wires grounded on the bottom of it.. Should I move them and ground to engine block?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thanks for all of your help guys! I finally got it running. I cut off the ends on the wires at the coil and the resister. Replaced them with new ends. I also repaired the wires on the TTS. I cleaned all the plugs and removed all the old fuel. Car started right up! I have a question though....on the ceramic resistor on the firewall there are 3 black wires grounded on the bottom of it.. Should I move them and ground to engine block?

Good work. The grounds are just a place to make a common connection. The resistor block itself does not need to be grounded. So you can move those grounds to the engine block if you wish.

[Ron]

Thanks for all of your help guys! I finally got it running.

[BobLS]

Check the connections on the white ballast resistor on the firewall in front of the motor. Another possibility is a bad impulse coil.
David Teitelbaum

Thanks Dave. Car would either not start unless holding the ignition switch in just the right position between "Start" and "Run." Sometimes it would run and then just die as if it was out of gas or as if I turned off the ignition switch. I had tried/tested everything: fuel pump, inertia switch, relays, ignition electrical component replaced. Finally just R & R'd the ballast resistor wires. SOLVED! Took 20 seconds.