The restoration of 2930

[nullset]

I suppose it's worth a try…let me see if I can find some.

--buddy

[nullset]

Okay, I've pulled the manifold, reinstalled the distributor, and put everything back together.

The only non connected wires right now are the max throttle switches. Everything else is wired in, including vacuum/etc.

I hooked up a timing light. Do I want to see the notch at the '0' mark or the '20' mark? I've tried both ways, and she still won't fire.

I did get one backfire, but that's it. I know it has air and fuel. I can pop the injectors and push on the pressure plate and they'll squirt just fine.

What else can I try? Any tricks to starting a stubborn engine, swapping electrical plugs/etc?

--buddy

[nullset]

Okay, I tested on my other car and the timing notch appears about 50 degrees counterclockwise from the 0 degrees TDC mark. Does this sound right?

I'm going home now. I'll try again tomorrow night.

--buddy

[nullset]

VIDEO!

Okay, the embed isn't working.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

[sean]

some questions:
Are we 100% the spark plug wires are ordered properly?
Did you inspect and or replace the plugs and gap?
Did you try the plug swap on the CSV while starting?

[nullset]

some questions:
Are we 100% the spark plug wires are ordered properly?
Did you inspect and or replace the plugs and gap?
Did you try the plug swap on the CSV while starting?

Assuming that the cylinder #s printed in the distributor cap correspond to the numbers according to the manual (#1 is passenger side towards the "front" of the engine/vehicle, #6 is driver side closest to me when I'm working on it), then yes the spark plug wires are all correct.

I ordered a new set of plug wires but no where I can find locally has them in stock. I could try voluparts today. They were closed over the weekend.

The plugs all look pretty good. I didn't check the gap.

I did try that, I believe. Plug the wire from the CPR into the CSV, right?

--buddy

[sean]

I did try that, I believe. Plug the wire from the CPR into the CSV, right?

--buddy

Yes. When you had the cap off and lined up the rotor, did you make sure you seated it all the way down? There is a notch in the distributor so the rotor should only seat one way but you can put it in wrong(i.e. not seated all the way) and still put the cap back down. If it were me I would be checking for spark at each plug right now. Still a little concerned the timing is off.

[nullset]

Yes. When you had the cap off and lined up the rotor, did you make sure you seated it all the way down? There is a notch in the distributor so the rotor should only seat one way but you can put it in wrong(i.e. not seated all the way) and still put the cap back down. If it were me I would be checking for spark at each plug right now. Still a little concerned the timing is off.

I'll double check, but I'm pretty sure it's seated correctly.

I'll pull all the plugs, check for spark, and re-do the compression test tonight.

When I use the timing gun, where should the notch appear? I can move it around pretty well. I had it at 0 degrees and it still sounded exactly the same.

[sean]

When I use the timing gun, where should the notch appear? I can move it around pretty well. I had it at 0 degrees and it still sounded exactly the same.

Id recommend dabbing some white paint on the #1tdc notch so its easier to see when the gun flashes it should show up between 0 an 13. You should have lined up the notch with 13 on the bracket when setting your distributor.

[nullset]

Id recommend dabbing some white paint on the #1tdc notch so its easier to see when the gun flashes it should show up between 0 an 13. You should have lined up the notch with 13 on the bracket when setting your distributor.

I thought I was supposed to line it up at zero….

I think I can get the notch to be between 0 and 13 though. Assuming it's the right notch……

(the second notch, as I'm turning the crankshaft clockwise, right? Where 1st and 2nd are close together)