DCUK Stainless Steering Shaft/Joint Set

[DMC5180]

I'm gonna say install the whole 3 piece assembly as a unit onto the upper connection confirm you are getting maximum depth insertion of the shaft to the joints. Then try and attach the lower end to the rack. Like you, I find it odd that Borgeson doesn't have a long leg slip type joint for ease of assembly like the OE shaft did. If that does not work for you, you can always remove the Driver side RACK mount clamp and shift the rack forward a bit. That should allow the room you need if all else fails.

[kings1527]

I'm gonna say install the whole 3 piece assembly as a unit onto the upper connection confirm you are getting maximum depth insertion of the shaft to the joints. Then try and attach the lower end to the rack. Like you, I find it odd that Borgeson doesn't have a long leg slip type joint for ease of assembly like the OE shaft did. If that does not work for you, you can always remove the Driver side RACK mount clamp and shift the rack forward a bit. That should allow the room you need if all else fails.

Excellent, thanks Dennis. Great idea on the rack mount clamp. I was thinking that I can get the whole assembly on if I took the entire rack OFF again (which obviously I had no interest in doing) but I didn't think about removing just the driver's side rack clamp. That'll be plenty of room if it comes down to doing it that way. I'll try putting the whole assembly on first, like you mentioned. Thursday will probably be my next day tackling this.

Thanks again.

[DMC5180]

One thing to note and my memory is very foggy on this. When I was assisting with the driver side of mr R's car, I thought the long side of his Vibration joint was connected to the Rack shaft. He had the DD profile mid-shaft. I assume you can't swap ends due to different size splines. You may want to see if Jim recalls any specifics. I did not refit the joint, I think Jim did. It's hard to say want length the mid-shaft was, because the DD type used is easily shorten if it did not fit out of the box. You can't do that with the splined type.



Note to moderators: This thread should probable be split somewhere a couple pages back as the we are not referring to the DCUK/SS shaft assembly. It's the Borgeson SS assembly.

[kings1527]

One thing to note and my memory is very foggy on this. When I was assisting with the driver side of mr R's car, I thought the long side of his Vibration joint was connected to the Rack shaft. He had the DD profile mid-shaft. I assume you can't swap ends due to different size splines. You may want to see if Jim recalls any specifics. I did not refit the joint, I think Jim did. It's hard to say want length the mid-shaft was, because the DD type used is easily shorten if it did not fit out of the box. You can't do that with the splined type.



Note to moderators: This thread should probable be split somewhere a couple pages back as the we are not referring to the DCUK/SS shaft assembly. It's the Borgeson SS assembly.

Thanks for the recommendation on the split. Sorry to spin this thread out of control in a different direction.

I PM'd Jim and let him know about this thread. Hopefully he'll be able to weigh in. And yes, since I have the splined shaft, I can't make any adjustments to it. I'm considering returning the splined shaft and going with the DD. At that point, I could definitely make things work.

Plus, if I had to take off the driver's side rack bracket and slide it out to get the assembly in, wouldn't that be a headache for making sure my alignment is in order? At this point I'll have to center my wheel, attach the assembly, find the center point on the rack and then possibly disconnect the assembly from the rack again in order to get my wheel in order. I guess I could pull the wheel and re-adjust it that way but I don't know what that does for my turn signals.

I'm wondering if going with the DD shaft at a shorter length compared to what I currently have is going to provide for far less headache in the future. I think getting the rack centered along with the wheel might be a problem. What do you think with that? I'd actually have to return the entire assembly since all of the joints are splined.

On final thought, I think I can get all of this figured out with the stuff I have. I'll just have to undo the driver's side bracket and slide the rack out a hair and if I have to do it again to help the initial alignment with the wheel, then so be it.

Thanks!

[dmc6960]

Ok, here are my thoughts...

My shaft length is 12.75". Longer than yours given you have the vibration reducing u-joint and I dont. Your length sounds correct.

Make sure your steering column is sticking out the proper length through the bushing. The splines should end shortly before reaching the bushing, I do not recall exactly how far they should be, but they should not be touching the bushing. Needs to be all smooth there. Since the collumn telescopes, this section can move on you. If you end up needing a little more or less, you can move it accordingly.

Assemble everything LOOSE, do not yet tighten any set screws. In fact, remove them completely. You'll want to look down their holes for a later step.

With everything loose, you should be able to slide both u-joints much further into the splined shafts than they will normally ride when you tighten them all up. There should be enough room now to insert your splined intermediate shaft connecting the two ALL THE WAY into one of the u-joints. There should then be enough room to insert it into the other u-joint.

Now, you'll want to first insert and tighten the set screws on the steering collumn, and the steering rack. On the column, there is a full groove cut out along the whole circumference of the splined shaft. Make sure the set-screw hole is in the exact middle of this grove, and insert it and tighten it down snug, not super-tight yet. Do not yet install the lock nut either.

Next, on the steering rack's splined shaft, there is a flat section. Make sure that your set-screw hole is SQUARELY over the flat section. Remove and reinstall if this is not completely square on it. Insert set-screw and tighten snug. No lock nut yet.

Now, both u-joints will be installed in their proper positions, and you can now align the intermediate shaft 1/2 way between the two u-joints. Move it back and fourth, measure how much it moves, then move it exactly half that. Look into the set screw holes to make sure you see 100% metal. If you see the shaft end in either hole you need to adjust the intermediate shaft, of pull more steering collumn through the firewall/bushing. Once good, install set screws and tighten snug.

Spin steering wheel from lock to lock, note the rotations to lock, and hope you kept everything mostly centered. If your off, you can undo all this and re-seat the top u-joint into the steering column. This is something I wanted to do with Steve's car but we were really running out of time with that other storm coming.

Once you have everything verified as it should be, really clamp down on those set screws. I like to either use a pliers on the Allen-wrench, or use an Allen bit in a ratchet and crank it down. Now you can install the lock nuts, and where possible, use a socket instead of a wrench. Get those really tight as well.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

[kings1527]

Ok, here are my thoughts...

My shaft length is 12.75". Longer than yours given you have the vibration reducing u-joint and I dont. Your length sounds correct.

Make sure your steering column is sticking out the proper length through the bushing. The splines should end shortly before reaching the bushing, I do not recall exactly how far they should be, but they should not be touching the bushing. Needs to be all smooth there. Since the collumn telescopes, this section can move on you. If you end up needing a little more or less, you can move it accordingly.

Assemble everything LOOSE, do not yet tighten any set screws. In fact, remove them completely. You'll want to look down their holes for a later step.

With everything loose, you should be able to slide both u-joints much further into the splined shafts than they will normally ride when you tighten them all up. There should be enough room now to insert your splined intermediate shaft connecting the two ALL THE WAY into one of the u-joints. There should then be enough room to insert it into the other u-joint.

Now, you'll want to first insert and tighten the set screws on the steering collumn, and the steering rack. On the column, there is a full groove cut out along the whole circumference of the splined shaft. Make sure the set-screw hole is in the exact middle of this grove, and insert it and tighten it down snug, not super-tight yet. Do not yet install the lock nut either.

Next, on the steering rack's splined shaft, there is a flat section. Make sure that your set-screw hole is SQUARELY over the flat section. Remove and reinstall if this is not completely square on it. Insert set-screw and tighten snug. No lock nut yet.

Now, both u-joints will be installed in their proper positions, and you can now align the intermediate shaft 1/2 way between the two u-joints. Move it back and fourth, measure how much it moves, then move it exactly half that. Look into the set screw holes to make sure you see 100% metal. If you see the shaft end in either hole you need to adjust the intermediate shaft, of pull more steering collumn through the firewall/bushing. Once good, install set screws and tighten snug.

Spin steering wheel from lock to lock, note the rotations to lock, and hope you kept everything mostly centered. If your off, you can undo all this and re-seat the top u-joint into the steering column. This is something I wanted to do with Steve's car but we were really running out of time with that other storm coming.

Once you have everything verified as it should be, really clamp down on those set screws. I like to either use a pliers on the Allen-wrench, or use an Allen bit in a ratchet and crank it down. Now you can install the lock nuts, and where possible, use a socket instead of a wrench. Get those really tight as well.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

Wow, Jim. What an awesome tutorial! Thank you! I'm out of town right now but I'll be back at it on Thursday. I'm not real happy that your shaft is longer than mine but its nice to know my shaft will still work.

Thanks again and I'll let you know how it goes!

[dmc6960]

I'm not real happy that your shaft is longer than mine but its nice to know my shaft will still work.

Well, remember, the vibration-reducing u-joints are a little over an inch longer than the standard. 4 3/8" VS 3 1/4". I have two standards and a shaft 1" longer than yours. Thats an overall difference of just 1/8". It should work. Just follow my step-by-step.

[kings1527]

Well, remember, the vibration-reducing u-joints are a little over an inch longer than the standard. 4 3/8" VS 3 1/4". I have two standards and a shaft 1" longer than yours. Thats an overall difference of just 1/8". It should work. Just follow my step-by-step.

Will do. The other day, I was feeling 1/8" would give me what I needed. But I'll give it a go on Thursday. The very worst case scenario, I'll do what Dennis suggested and undo the driver's side rack bracket and get at it that way. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks again.

[DMC5180]

Well, remember, the vibration-reducing u-joints are a little over an inch longer than the standard. 4 3/8" VS 3 1/4". I have two standards and a shaft 1" longer than yours. Thats an overall difference of just 1/8". It should work. Just follow my step-by-step.

Based on the 1.125 differential the splined mid-shaft should be 11.625 instead of 11.75 I'm guessing that wasn't off the shelf option at Borgeson. Jim, I did not know you had the Borgeson shaft setup. If you had to do it again, would you try the vibration coupler for the extra $40 cost?

[dmc6960]

Jim, I did not know you had the Borgeson shaft setup. If you had to do it again, would you try the vibration coupler for the extra $40 cost?

Yea, I did that setup back in 2010 shortly before DCS, when I rebuilt the suspension with poly bushings, new front springs, LCA brackets, and Spax shocks.

Obviously the vibration reducer wasn't enough to take away the rack-play-induced vibration Steve had. I didn't drive it afterwards though. Even on my own car, with new tires/balancing, fresh alignment, direct-link borgeson steering shaft, and an 8 year/60,000 mile steering rack, I still have a tiny vibration at certain speeds. One thing I've never replaced though is the steering column bushing. Have a new one, just never put it in as the one in my car when I bought it has never failed. Checking it out this year though there is enough play it in to finally warrant my replacing of it. If I still have a slight vibration even after that, perhaps I'll revisit my steering shaft u-joints.

For an additional price of only $40 *when purchasing everything new*, I would not hesitate to do so.