DCUK Stainless Steering Shaft/Joint Set

[kings1527]

Based on the 1.125 differential the splined mid-shaft should be 11.625 instead of 11.75 I'm guessing that wasn't off the shelf option at Borgeson. Jim, I did not know you had the Borgeson shaft setup. If you had to do it again, would you try the vibration coupler for the extra $40 cost?

Ok. Well, that might be part of my problem right there. I was really close the other day but I'll try Jim's method and see what I can find. There's got to be a way to get this in place; definitely with moving the rack bracket out for a second.

If I decided to send everything back, is there an advantage to going with the DD shaft over the splined? Just curious. I was thinking that I could then cut it, if need be.

I'm stuck at work until Monday, so I won't be able to do anything until then. :-/

[DMC5180]

Pretty much.

The DD style shaft can be custom cut too any length and it won't effect it's physical engagement into the joints. Splined type shafts are pre-cut round stock that have the splines added after the fact. For the purpose of functionality the mid-shaft can be any style shaft as long as the opposite sides of the joints have the correct specified engagement splines for the factory splines.

[Delorean Industries]

Hi Josh,

I have a question about the stainless steering shaft you sell. It looks like the DMCH/Toby unit only has one stainless U-joint but the unit you sell replaces the upper and lower U-joints with stainless? Is that accurate? I'm under the impression that the DMC unit leaves you with one OEM U-joint and one new stainless U-joint. Thanks!

I'm not sure about the dmch offering but our steering shaft kit includes both the upper and lower u joints in stainless.

[DMC5180]

Wow Josh, Long day at work You answered the question in the above post back in January. Post #21

[Delorean Industries]

Wow Josh, Long day at work You answered the question in the above post back in January. Post #21

Who knows.... I think I need to put my head down.

[kings1527]

Success, men! I ended up going Dennis's route and undoing the driver's side rack bracket which allowed the rack to slide back plenty far, even though I only needed a tiny bit. Jim: thanks for the heads-up on the notches for the set screws to go into. I noticed the one on the steering column but the flat spot on the rack was faced opposite me and I don't know if I would've caught that.

Even though the shaft was technically just a hair too long (I tried everything, Jim...no luck), I thought it was kind of a good safety thing because there's no way my intermediate shaft can escape for any reason. The steering rack would have to fall out of the car first for that to happen. So, all's well. Thanks!

I'm going for a drive to Pasadena in about an hour so I'll have it on the road at speed and see how things are. I got the alignment pretty good, even though I'm off by only a couple of splines on the steering wheel. I tried taking my wheel off with a puller to make the very minor adjustment but it was stubborn and I was running out of time.

Toby's Delrin column bushing: check
Borgeson setup with anti-vibration coupling: check
New DMCH steering rack: check

Thanks again guys!

[DMC5180]

For pulling the the wheel, I bought M6 x 1.00 x (110 L min. [shown] or a 120 L better option) bolts and some 3/16 large area washers (modified) drilled upsize a little and edge ground/cut. These lengths allow full threading into the wheel (about 3/4"). My bolts came from a local FASTENAL store, but I've seen longer length selections like these at GOOD Hardware stores.

IMG_0974.JPG IMG_0975.JPG IMG_0978.JPG


Some folks have had success using an air hammer on the center shaft. I find that a little too risky at possibly damaging things with a slip. Although If you leave the nut on a few threads but sticking above the end of the Shaft slightly that will act at a guide to keep the punch on the shaft end.


You can also have the wheel Centered during a [Recommended alignment] and they will adjust the tied rods accordingly if it's not to far out.

[kings1527]

Thanks Dennis. I should probably go with the regular alignment from a shop just to make sure everything is up to speed, since my tires have only about 1200 miles on them. But I might mess around with it more on my own and try to get it right since it's only a tie rod adjustment in the front (with proper toe in). I'd hate to have bad tread wear on my tires since they're so new and you know how tough it is to get good matching tires. They don't make my Dunlops to match anymore.

The puller I was using had a flat, blunt end and not the pointed end so it was slipping out of the notch but that's a good idea on threading that nut on for a couple turns to guide it.

I drove about 75 miles yesterday, mostly freeway, and everything is feeling good. The new rack is extremely responsive and of course having a new column bushing installed is a huge difference. The anti-vibration coupling is great but I was catching a little bit of vibration on some fairly rough streets. It wasn't perfect but on a scale of 0-10 with 10 being no vibration, before the install I was at a 3 including no remaining column bushing (glad the hole didn't get bored out) and now I'm at an 8.

[DMC5180]

Hi Alex,

My Puller has replaceable shaft tips (flat & Pointed). The last time I removed the wheel I only the flat end available. I tried it, but that did what yours did and kept walking off the end. My solution was to remove the tip (Shown in Photo's) the end of the shaft is domed (on mine) that was enough to keep the shaft screw centered in the steering shaft. It was not the preferred way to do it but it worked that one time.

There is no way to completely stop rough road (Bump Steer)feed back in the Delorean Steering. The best you can do is reduce the effects by tightening things up. Several items have been developed to help do that.

1. DMCEU LCA Stabilizer Links
2. DPNW Poly anti-roll bar bushing kit,
3. Anti-Vibration steering U-joint
4. Some say the Strut Bar helps stiffen the front end.
5. Shocks (adjustable preferred)

For alignment all you can do is front and rear toe on a stock delorean. Note: It is always a good Idea to have a few rear Adjustment shim washers on hand. If you the car is lowered, some folks have opted to put Adjustable Rear lower links in for Rear Camber adjustment.

An important step in the alignment process is setting the frame height. Follow the instructions given in the Service Bulletin. You may need to raise or lower the front to achieve the 5.5" frame to floor spec.

[kings1527]

Hi Alex,

My Puller has replaceable shaft tips (flat & Pointed). The last time I removed the wheel I only the flat end available. I tried it, but that did what yours did and kept walking off the end. My solution was to remove the tip (Shown in Photo's) the end of the shaft is domed (on mine) that was enough to keep the shaft screw centered in the steering shaft. It was not the preferred way to do it but it worked that one time.

There is no way to completely stop rough road (Bump Steer)feed back in the Delorean Steering. The best you can do is reduce the effects by tightening things up. Several items have been developed to help do that.

1. DMCEU LCA Stabilizer Links
2. DPNW Poly anti-roll bar bushing kit,
3. Anti-Vibration steering U-joint
4. Some say the Strut Bar helps stiffen the front end.
5. Shocks (adjustable preferred)

For alignment all you can do is front and rear toe on a stock delorean. Note: It is always a good Idea to have a few rear Adjustment shim washers on hand. If you the car is lowered, some folks have opted to put Adjustable Rear lower links in for Rear Camber adjustment.

An important step in the alignment process is setting the frame height. Follow the instructions given in the Service Bulletin. You may need to raise or lower the front to achieve the 5.5" frame to floor spec.

Thanks, Dennis. My fleaBay puller has only a flat tip and it doesn't come off so I'll get another one just to have it. I need to clean and re-dye the steering wheel anyways. But I saw that thread where it was talked about using an air chisel and I think I'll figure out another way rather than that. I'll mess something up with that. It looks like this is roll bar kit from DPNW that you're talking about:

http://delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/...Code=K1006DP-C

I think I'll have to go with that someday soon. And I hear what you're saying about not completely eliminating vibration; that'd be impossible and my steering already is night and day with the new rack and Borgeson system. I was spoiled after I drove Steve's car!

I'm going to mess around with the toe in a little bit and see if I can't get my wheel more centered without having to take it off. Jim mentioned to measure tread to tread and have 1/4" less in the front compared to the back so I'll try to accomplish that. I might just end up taking it in and having it professionally done (along with some extra shims for the rear; thanks for that). I'll keep working on the system as time goes by but for right now, I'm looking real good. Thanks again!