Door lock - Trying to reconnect

[orbitron3000]

Hi everyone,

I am trying to get the "automated" door locks to work -- when you lock the driver side, the passenger side unlocks etc. Using the colored wiring diagram, I managed to stumble upon the door lock relay in the car. However, there is a switch of some sort next to it that I can't make heads or tails of.

Here's a picture of the relay and switch:
2011-06-07_22-15-44_9.jpg

The red circle is the one I don't know what it is. I'm guessing it's the door lock thermal trip based on the brown wire going into it. The small red wire I think is from the driver side of the car, and there are two open spots. Does anything go here? If so, is it the big red wire (with a green arrow next to it at the bottom of the picture?) that comes out of the door lock relay?

I have tried to plug in the red wire into both spots and try the locks, but to no avail. Am I barking up the wrong tree to get the locks to work?

[stevedmc]

Am I barking up the wrong tree to get the locks to work?

If you have the original lock module the answer would be yes. Chances are it was disabled by a previous owner for a reason.

[Chris 16409]

The red circle is the one I don't know what it is.

I have that thinner red wire going to my door lock circuit breaker as well. I'm not sure what it goes too either. The thicker red wire is the main power wire for the door lock module.

stevedmc has it right, the PO disconnected the door lock module for a reason. It probably doesn't work, either the lock module or the solenoids are at fault.

[orbitron3000]

If you have the original lock module the answer would be yes. Chances are it was disabled by a previous owner for a reason.

I have that thinner red wire going to my door lock circuit breaker as well. I'm not sure what it goes too either. The thicker red wire is the main power wire for the door lock module.

stevedmc has it right, the PO disconnected the door lock module for a reason. It probably doesn't work, either the lock module or the solenoids are at fault.

thanks. so to get the door locks to work properly, my best bet would be to replace the door lock solenoids with the linear actuators (if they haven't already) and then replace the door lock relay too? Would it be prudent to replace the door lock circuit breaker too?

[dmc6960]

You probably should replace the lock module (relay) first. This is the part that will fry the solenoids. Its also the easiest to replace. Then you can see if you still have working solenoids. If they are also toast, (and your locks move freely by hand), then consider getting the actuators from Toby. The breaker is fine and there should be no need to replace it. The weak breakers are the cooling fan and blower motor ones.

The extra thin red wire is power for the power antenna.

[orbitron3000]

You probably should replace the lock module (relay) first. This is the part that will fry the solenoids. Its also the easiest to replace. Then you can see if you still have working solenoids. If they are also toast, (and your locks move freely by hand), then consider getting the actuators from Toby. The breaker is fine and there should be no need to replace it. The weak breakers are the cooling fan and blower motor ones.

The extra thin red wire is power for the power antenna.

Is it worth getting the digital door lock relay from DMC? I have to take the door apart to see if I have the solenoids, right? Or can I peak through the one of the lens holders in the door to see?

[dmc6960]

Is it worth getting the digital door lock relay from DMC? I have to take the door apart to see if I have the solenoids, right? Or can I peak through the one of the lens holders in the door to see?

Odds are 99.9% you still have solenoids. No need to open them up just to look. Are you good with electrical? If so you can jump the wires which power the solenoids to test their operation in both directions. Make sure both latches are completely closed when you do this though, as they do not like locking when unlatched .

Yes, the DMC digital module is the best bet if you do not want to rebuild your original module.

[orbitron3000]

Odds are 99.9% you still have solenoids. No need to open them up just to look. Are you good with electrical? If so you can jump the wires which power the solenoids to test their operation in both directions. Make sure both latches are completely closed when you do this though, as they do not like locking when unlatched .

Yes, the DMC digital module is the best bet if you do not want to rebuild your original module.

So jumping them once (say on the white harness that comes out of the door lock relay will switch the lock (if it's unlocked it'll lock and vice versa)?

[Bitsyncmaster]

To run actuators with the OEM door lock module would require a set of two relays. So you don't have actuators.

[Bitsyncmaster]

So jumping them once (say on the white harness that comes out of the door lock relay will switch the lock (if it's unlocked it'll lock and vice versa)?

You jumper (just a quick connection) +12 volts to the red/pink to lock or jumper +12 volts to the red/slate to unlock. I may have the "lock" and "unlock" reversed.