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Thread: Door lock - Trying to reconnect

  1. #21
    Senior Member Chris 16409's Avatar
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    The Lockzilla is not available anymore. They come up for sale every once and a while, but you're most likely going to have the best luck with the new digital lock module. You can buy it from Houston, or contact Josh Bengston (Delorean Performance Industries - http://www.deloreanindustries.com/contact) to see what he's been using.
    Chris Miles

    For Better or Worse I own a DeLorean!
    1983 Grey Manual, VIN #16409, Fresno, California

  2. #22
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris 16409 View Post
    The Lockzilla is not available anymore. They come up for sale every once and a while, but you're most likely going to have the best luck with the new digital lock module. You can buy it from Houston, or contact Josh Bengston (Delorean Performance Industries - http://www.deloreanindustries.com/contact) to see what he's been using.
    I did not know Lockzilla was no longer available. Thanks for the tip.

  3. #23
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    I know this is a really old thread but hopefully someone can clarify.
    Im chasing an issue in the wire that comes from the inertia switch / telltale.
    Is that wire a 12v supply?
    on the wiring diagram its from the central ac switch.

    In the diagram above there are 2 wires going to each lock/unlock switch.
    In reality there are 3 wires. Or is the 3rd earth? Can someone explain what
    each of the 3 wires do on the switches please?

  4. #24
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy_ View Post
    I know this is a really old thread but hopefully someone can clarify.
    Im chasing an issue in the wire that comes from the inertia switch / telltale.
    Is that wire a 12v supply?
    on the wiring diagram its from the central ac switch.

    In the diagram above there are 2 wires going to each lock/unlock switch.
    In reality there are 3 wires. Or is the 3rd earth? Can someone explain what
    each of the 3 wires do on the switches please?
    There are only 2 wires for the door switches. One is grounded when both doors are locked and floats when unlocked. The other wire is grounded when both doors are unlocked and floats when locked. The door lock ECU has pull-up resistors on those wires so you would see 12 volts when the door switches don't ground them. That third wire (brown/pink) is connected to the door switch brown/pink. That wire can be grounded by the inertia switch to force the ECU to unlock the doors. So if the doors are unlocked the door switch also grounds the LOCK DOOR lamp.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  5. #25
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    The "3rd" wire is what grounds the 2 wires Dave mentions above (see below).
    DLSwitches.jpg

  6. #26
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    Thankyou for that, dave and ron, makes sense.
    One more thing. I didnt have too much time to look today,
    But im working from this diagram.
    IMG_2653.jpg

    I thought the door module was powered by the separate red wire
    from the thermal cut out. Is it only the relays in the module powered
    By the red wire, and the module itself is powered by the 12v+ in the connector?
    Attached Images

  7. #27
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy_ View Post
    Thankyou for that, dave and ron, makes sense.
    One more thing. I didnt have too much time to look today,
    But im working from this diagram.
    IMG_2653.jpg

    I thought the door module was powered by the separate red wire
    from the thermal cut out. Is it only the relays in the module powered
    By the red wire, and the module itself is powered by the 12v+ in the connector?
    With the OEM ECU the module circuit is powered by the small purple wire. The actuators get powered by the red wire from the beaker.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

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