What's it take to replace injectors and cold start valve?

[nullset]

Side note….

If you do decide to replace the injectors, get the intake manifold O-ring and new copper washer sets, and take the time to remove the intake manifold and thoroughly clean and inspect everything.

You'd might as well replace spark plugs and wires while you're in there. That job is _much_ easier with the manifold out of the way.

--buddy

[mluder]

OK - I pulled the plug from the regulator and plugged it into the CSV. It fired on the first try.

I will check the pressure plate in the fuel distributer next. If it's not holding pressure there is that due to the o-ring in the distributer that you refer to?

Steve

That doesn't sound like a problem with the CSV. The CSV should only fire when the engine is cold.

Pull your air box, jumper your RPM relay. Wait a few seconds. Push down on the pressure plate. Feel that resistance? Good. Now unjumper the relay, and see how long it holds that pressure. It should hold for at least half an hour or so, right?

When it's hard to start, try the plug swap (blue to grey). If it fires right up, your CSV is fine, but you have another problem. It could be the o-ring in the fuel distributor (PPR O ring I think it's called), since you've already replaced the accumulator.

--buddy

[David T]

If it started right up with the plug swap when cold your cold start valve works. You have a problem either in the wiring of the CSV circuit or a bad Thermo-Time switch.

If you have a problem starting warm-hot you have a problem with the CPR and/or holding rest pressure. There are other systems that function during a cold/warm start. Among them include:
Vacuum advance
High idle
Warm air intake
Additional enrichment on the CPR
Ballast resistor bypass
They don't individually seem to have as large an effect on hard starting but if there is a combination of problems it can make it harder to start.
David Teitelbaum

[mluder]

It definately seems to be a problem with rest pressure.

I jumpered the RPM and ran the fuel pump - good pressure at the intake. When I shut down the fuel pump it had completely lost pressure within about 5 minutes.

I saw a way to test the thermotime switch somewhere in the forums. I will do that to make sure I don't have compounding issues.

Any advice on how to proceed with ruling out the rest of the list you mentioned?

I really appreciate it. - This cold start has been the bane of my exisitnace.

Steve

If it started right up with the plug swap when cold your cold start valve works. You have a problem either in the wiring of the CSV circuit or a bad Thermo-Time switch.

If you have a problem starting warm-hot you have a problem with the CPR and/or holding rest pressure. There are other systems that function during a cold/warm start. Among them include:
Vacuum advance
High idle
Warm air intake
Additional enrichment on the CPR
Ballast resistor bypass
They don't individually seem to have as large an effect on hard starting but if there is a combination of problems it can make it harder to start.
David Teitelbaum

[mluder]

Alright, now it also hard to hot start. 10 minutes with the engine off is enough to completely loose pressure?

Steve

[Bitsyncmaster]

Alright, now it also hard to hot start. 10 minutes with the engine off is enough to completely loose pressure?

Steve

If your still on the original accumulator, get it replaced first.

[mluder]

If your still on the original accumulator, get it replaced first.

I'm almost 100% certain it was replaced by the previous owner a few months before I bought the car as it had sat for 10 years and had to have alot of the fuel system re-built at DMCNW just to get it running.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'm almost 100% certain it was replaced by the previous owner a few months before I bought the car as it had sat for 10 years and had to have alot of the fuel system re-built at DMCNW just to get it running.

I've seen them fail right out of the box. Now you need to find why your not holding rest pressure. Better pull the PPR O-ring and check it but I bet it's your accumulator since a bad one will only hold for about 5 min.

[mluder]

I've seen them fail right out of the box. Now you need to find why your not holding rest pressure. Better pull the PPR O-ring and check it but I bet it's your accumulator since a bad one will only hold for about 5 min.

OK - I'll do the accumulator.

Sorry, to be annoying - What/where is the PPR o-ring. Difficult to replace?

Steven

[Bitsyncmaster]

OK - I'll do the accumulator.

Sorry, to be annoying - What/where is the PPR o-ring. Difficult to replace?

Steven

Very simple job to check the PPR o-ring but sometimes it sticks inside and needs a little force. You remove that large "nut" on the front right side of the FD. Inside is a spring with shim washers pressing a "piston" inside the hole. That piston needs to come out and the o-ring is mounted on the other side of the piston.

BUT BE CARFUL YOU DON'T DROP ANYTHING DOWN IN THE VOD.