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Thread: New Battery Ground Connections Help

  1. #11
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    From the battery I recommend you use 2 AWG but 4 AWG would probably work. The ground side is a shorter cable so less voltage would be dropped on that wire.

    It's the 150 to 200 amps the starter requires that make the larger wires produce less voltage drop.
    Dave M vin 03572
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  2. #12
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    I already have 4 awg copper wire. can I use that for both lengths?

  3. #13
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by coreydmc View Post
    I already have 4 awg copper wire. can I use that for both lengths?
    It most likely will work. The 2 AWG may give you a start with a low battery on very cold mornings.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  4. #14
    DMCTalk.org's #2 Mike C.'s Avatar
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  5. #15
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    i always keep a battery tender on my car since i dont use it that often. I just want to make sure I am not wasting my time or money using 4awg copper wire. I also dont want to mess anything up. But my car is original now so im sure anything is a approvement!

  6. #16
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    Is it ok if I run ground cable from battery to transmission bolt near end cap, than from trans bolt to the rear frame under coolant bottle where the ground is run from behind coil pack? The reason I ask is because i have my frame coated with POR 15 and it will be a pain to grind away coating for a clean contact. it will be easier for me the way i just mentioned above. i always keep a battery tender on my car since i dont use it that often. I just want to make sure I am not wasting my time or money using 4awg copper wire. I also dont want to mess anything up. But my car is original now so im sure anything is a approvement!

  7. #17
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
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  8. #18
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    ok great thanks for your help!

    sorry...one more thing. do the lengths matter on the ground cables? I wasnt sure if it interfered with current somehow.

  9. #19
    Senior Member Henrik's Avatar
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    Revising an old thread that I though was appropriate.

    I have been plagued with a "draggy" starter for a while - until now. The solution was a much upsized, pure copper cable from the battery to the transmission and from the transmission to the original grounding point. Details here: http://deloreanvr6conversion.blogspo...sue-fixed.html
    VR6 engine (367 rwhp/377 ftlb); Type T4 turbo; A/R=0.70/0.68; Air-to-air intercooler, Megasquirt MS3 Pro, Manual tranny w/ HD output shaft; Remote mounted oil filter.
    Adjustable dampers and ride height springs from QA1/DriveStainless; SS triangulated LCA brackets, boxed in LCAs, PU bushings, ventilated front brake rotors - all from DMCEU; UCAs with -3 deg camber from Reid Performance; 15" rear rims x 4
    http://deloreanvr6conversion.blogspot.com

  10. #20
    Senior Member Henrik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henrik View Post
    Revising an old thread that I though was appropriate.

    I have been plagued with a "draggy" starter for a while - until now. The solution was a much upsized, pure copper cable from the battery to the transmission and from the transmission to the original grounding point. Details here: http://deloreanvr6conversion.blogspo...sue-fixed.html
    Meant to say "Reviving an old thread that I thought was appropriate."
    VR6 engine (367 rwhp/377 ftlb); Type T4 turbo; A/R=0.70/0.68; Air-to-air intercooler, Megasquirt MS3 Pro, Manual tranny w/ HD output shaft; Remote mounted oil filter.
    Adjustable dampers and ride height springs from QA1/DriveStainless; SS triangulated LCA brackets, boxed in LCAs, PU bushings, ventilated front brake rotors - all from DMCEU; UCAs with -3 deg camber from Reid Performance; 15" rear rims x 4
    http://deloreanvr6conversion.blogspot.com

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