Dave Tavres | [email protected] | #10515 | Marceline, MO | www.twitter.com/DaveTavres | DeLoreanDirectory.com | DeLoreanTalk.com | DeLoreanMarketplace.com | www.DMC10515.com |
Seriously, try this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rockit-Oi...4FEFB3165A4586
It has nano technology which does many things. It's good at polishing babys too.
Posts: 293
Location: Asheville, N.C
Posts: 188
My VIN: Latest VIN 83
Club(s): (DCF) (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Getting rid of the Grain entirely
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Jared L.
June '81, manual, black inter. VIN 2087
Other cars: 2012 Toyota Sienna, 2007 Mazda 6, 1999 Jeep Cherokee
DeLorean blog: http://deloreanblog.blogspot.com/
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.
Posts: 2,079
My VIN: 0934
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
There's a thread about mirror-finish stainless treatment for the D with almost 70 posts in it HERE.
Initiated by Flyboy.
Last edited by Rich; 04-21-2020 at 05:11 PM.
March '81, 5-speed, black interior
The only thing about mirror polishing is your panels need to be damn straight. No waves, no imperfections. Mirror polishing will amplify the slightest X in a hood or the smallest distortion around the mirrors or locks. It will showcase it so much that anyone who sees it will be all "Goodness! They left that one in the oven too long! Bet he got it at a discount."
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,578
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
The main reason for the graining is that it tricks the eye so you don't see all of the minor imperfections, fingerprints, dust, etc. Keeping a mirror finish looking good is an enormous effort. That's why on elevators, escalators, and such you almost never see a mirror finish. When you do they often will protect it with a clear coat of some kind of paint or sealer. My company did a lot of public housing work and elevator work and we used grained S/S and what is called "ridigized" S/S. Kind of like diamond plate with ridges or bumps. It doesn't need paint, and doesn't corrode. Is easy to clean. On a car, having a mirror finish can make the car hard to see or a blinding light. Not exactly what you want (not very practical and very high maintenance). Last point, if you get wet leaves on it they must be removed IMMEDIATELY! They will stain the surface and it is difficult to remove. Even on a grained finish they will stain but on a mirror finish it will be even more obvious and harder to remove. It does look stunning though.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Asheville, N.C
Posts: 188
My VIN: Latest VIN 83
Club(s): (DCF) (NCDMC) (DCUK)
I have NO X on mine and Front has been done for 2 years now and it’s still as shiny as ever. I do nothing to it except wipe it down (not often)
Agree it is hard work but
Kinda disagree on flaws I actually have a door that has been hit and one can barely see a simple dimple in it yes even shined mirror finish
So what’s my secret to degrain....well, I confirmed with Nicholson
Here it is:
Hard Work
So my method is:: all silicon carbide sandpaper 400 dry approx. 200 4 inch swipes back and forth then another 200 4 inch swipes with 400 grit wet sand with bar keepers friend. Then I repeat that process with 600 grit dry and then wet again then move on to the same process with 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 dry and wet!
Needless to say it is tiring
After the whole will be done I’ll do a diamond paste with 3000 but I haven’t got there just yet maybe by July I think I’ll be done.
Couple hours here and there at night.
I’ve noticed twice now if I don’t take my time with the 600 grit because it is the most critical to get out the lines then have to go back to that step and repeat everything all over.
So far spend bout 150 hours and only 1/2 done.
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