How To: Install Cruise Control

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Below is a photo of the Cruise Control Computer install and final engine bay photo.

I again followed Raphael's idea(Thanks!!) of hiding it in the driverside cubby hole in the rear pontoon. I used the bracket that came with it and also bent the bracket so that it moved the cruise control computer up off of the floor of the pontoon in case of pooling water during rain or car wash. If you plan carefully, there is plenty of room for the antenna, charcoal canister, and cruise control computer to all fit in the area.

The short ground wire off of the computer box I connected to the rear quarter panel where the power antenna grounds. The cruise control cable sneaks through an existing hole where the lower engine cover release cable slides through.
I did drill a small hole to run the wiring from the pulse generator/vehicle speed sensor directly above the hole that a vacuum line runs through to the vacuum canister.
The rest of the wiring all will go through the hole that the lower engine cover release cable goes through in the bulkhead and into the passenger compartment. It helps to disconnect the harness connectors when you do this to shorten and lessen the wiring mess...
From here, you need to decide on your own how you want to hook the wiring up.

-A good ground for the wiring harness is above the fuse box on the rear bulkhead. Its also a good idea to clean that connection while you are there to keep your ground for the vehicle good.
-You pick a good +12V switched source; I chose the rear defrost/power mirror circuit.
-I had to modify and lengthen the wiring harness somewhat so that it would run through the center console and reach the cruise control and clutch disengagement switches.
-Follow the instructions on wiring the clutch disengagement switch to the brake light switch.
*If you have LED Brake lights, you will need to add a relay to make cruise control work, it's in the instructions*

That is pretty much it for the wiring.

Now, for the settings for gain(sensitivity) and delay(from pushing the button on switch to cruise cable holding speed). There are little switches you take a small screw driver to "flip" inside the cruise control computer box behind the rubber weather-tight seal.

The manual tells you recommended start settings; I did that and it did not work. I ended up having to do the highest setting for each to work correctly.
***If you follow these guidelines you are responsible for your own actions, take care when experimenting and setting the cruise control***

And now I have cruise control. If you have any more questions, please ask. The sooner, the better, while memory is still fresh!

Josh Q



Even Delorean "experts" would have a hard time telling that there is cruise control installed. That is how I like this set up. Thanks again Raphael!!

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I thought I would add an update on this upgrade/modification. I have now driven round-trip from Columbus, OH to Indianapolis, IN and from Columbus, OH to Nashville, TN as well as several hour drives and local cruising (over 2000 miles in total) while using cruise control and have had no problems what-so-ever; works like a charm!

However, I will share HOW I use the cruise control to minimize any possibilities of problems with the throttle cable/spool that people have shared concern with:

I use the cruise control function normally, like any other car except for the accelerate/resume function. If I increase MPH up to a certain speed I want to set cruise control at, I use my foot and not the switch. I have been successful at bumping up the speed several MPH when fine-tuning with the switch, but anything beyond that I use my foot first and then set the speed as a precaution.
The reason for this is that if you have the CC increase the speed (by pulling the throttle cable) more than a small amount without touching the gas pedal, it will begin to cause the cable to "loop" out of the spool and in extreme cases could pop out of the spool. Reducing speed via CC should cause no issues, just accelerating.

Anyhow I hope this helps for future CC installers; it has definately made long mundane trips much more enjoyable...

*Again, remember to use care and take responsibility for your own actions and decisions when doing this modification*

Josh Q

[sdg3205]

The reason for this is that if you have the CC increase the speed (by pulling the throttle cable) more than a small amount without touching the gas pedal, it will begin to cause the cable to "loop" out of the spool and in extreme cases could pop out of the spool. Reducing speed via CC should cause no issues, just accelerating.

Josh Q

Seems quite common on our throttle set up. Often when I manually manipulate the spool the cable will come off track and result in a high idle. Not the worst thing ever on a 5 speed but could be dangerous on an Auto.

[DMC5180]

He has the cotter pin in the spool to prevent it from popping out. The down side of the pin setup is that you now limits full throttle travel (Cable Misalignment). Have someone push the pedal to the floor and observe what happens to the cable.

[Nicholas R]

Interesting, I never really thought about this being a problem. I used to have the Audiovox C-100 system on my automatic and never had any issues using it to accelerate. I could always feel the gas pedal going down by itself when the cruise engaged so maybe the cable was smooth enough that the weight of the pedal kept it tight enough.

Once the LS1 was in I hooked the same system back up. Boy does it do a much better job of holding the speed steady. I'm sure it's partly because of the more powerful engine, however I think a bigger contributing factor is that the car is now a manual. The slippage in the automatic would really mess with that system trying to speed up the car. Speed could drop as much as 7mph before you'd really feel it accelerating again. Now I rarely see it drop 2-3mph less than what I set at.

Conveniently, the LS1's throttle bracket already had a second slot for cruise control. I still wish this system had a clutch cutoff switch though. I hate that you can push the clutch in and the cruise will just keep driving the RPMs up.

[dmc6960]

What about removing the return spring on the throttle pedal itself, and putting a *very* light one actually pulling it down? That way, when the CC controls the throttle, the pedal and cable follow. Thus it does not pop out of the channel.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

He has the cotter pin in the spool to prevent it from popping out. The down side of the pin setup is that you now limits full throttle travel (Cable Misalignment). Have someone push the pedal to the floor and observe what happens to the cable.

I removed that pin because I wanted 100% travel.

[DMC5180]

Interesting, I never really thought about this being a problem. I used to have the Audiovox C-100 system on my automatic and never had any issues using it to accelerate. I could always feel the gas pedal going down by itself when the cruise engaged so maybe the cable was smooth enough that the weight of the pedal kept it tight enough.

Once the LS1 was in I hooked the same system back up. Boy does it do a much better job of holding the speed steady. I'm sure it's partly because of the more powerful engine, however I think a bigger contributing factor is that the car is now a manual. The slippage in the automatic would really mess with that system trying to speed up the car. Speed could drop as much as 7mph before you'd really feel it accelerating again. Now I rarely see it drop 2-3mph less than what I set at.

Conveniently, the LS1's throttle bracket already had a second slot for cruise control. I still wish this system had a clutch cutoff switch though. I hate that you can push the clutch in and the cruise will just keep driving the RPMs up.

LS1 ? Post a couple pictures please or a link to thread with them.

[Nicholas R]

LS1 ? Post a couple pictures please or a link to thread with them.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?38...an-now-it-runs!

http://ls1delorean.blogspot.com

[FABombjoy]

What about removing the return spring on the throttle pedal itself

Unhooking the accelerator pedal spring is what I did on my CC setup. No issues yet, and the weight of the pedal keeps the cable properly in groove at all times.