Location: Atlanta OTP GA
Posts: 7,084
My VIN: 2743
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCH) (DCUK) (DOC-UK)
Dermot
VIN 2743, B/A, Frame 2227, engine 2320
I don't always drive cars, but when I do, I prefer DeLoreans
http://www.will-to-live.org
No-one is to stone anyone, even, and I want to make this absolutely clear, even if they do say "carburetor"
I don't think anyone is doing it since the vendors started offering lowering springs but I made my own. I ground 2 inches off the rear springs (no torch, use grinder) and I ground the front springs to a free standing height of 12 1/2 inches. Results in the pic attached.
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Jack Skeens
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,326
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
You need the adjustable links to get the tires back in alignment spec (camber) but honestly tire wear does not seem to suffer with the tires cambered negative a bit. It doesn't look any worse than most BMWs at the back (top of rear tires inward slightly compared to the fronts). If there are other issues or you are a high mile driver, or just want it perfect, it can help.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,326
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
I don't know, I've never done anything other than replace all springs and shocks at the same time, or leave it all stock. There are some folks on the list with that setup I believe.
Really doing that you save only the cost of the rear springs. Labor is the same whether you replace the rear shocks or put the originals back on. FYI though - the rear Spax have adjustable height, so you could lower the rear with OEM springs but the rates will be other than what was tested/engineered.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC