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Thread: The Restoration of #1768

  1. #351
    Senior Member vwdmc16's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  sacramento

    Posts:    1,279

    My VIN:    1768

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    How much further does the wheel / tire stick out of the wheel opening? How close is the tire to contacting the front of the wheel opening when the tires are turned inward with a load in the trunk? How close is the possible contact with the ARB at full steering stop.

    Sorry for the long delay.

    Short answer is they dont stick out too much but they are much larger!

    Here is the width from the front, yes they contact the front of the fender arch/ front lip with mild steering input. The wheels also rub on the swaybar at full lock but so did my stock 14" wheels, Remember I have a Mazda MX5 steering rack that gave me more steering angle since its has more travel than the DMC rack.

    Note they are still fully covered by the fender arch and when the suspension compresses it goes in father due to our natural camber gain of unequal length control arms.

    Here is a more head on picture

    Since the rubbing on the leading edge of the fender is not acceptable I took the hub design apart again and removed the 10mm spacers that were welded onto the Shattenkirk brake adapter brackets and I cut the wheel bearing- hub spacers down the same amount. This pulled the front wheel track inboard 20mm over all and has stopped the rubbing, the front track is still wider than stock at this point too. I think pulling it in helped improve the look of the wheel fitment, I prefer them to be sucked in a little not " hella flush" but not like a heavily Narrowed beam on an aircooled VW. one drawback is the Ive lost a bit more of my turning radius, however with my MX5 rack its its still TIGHTER than stock.

    I also have re machined the flange on the '95 Civic lug nuts ive been using, they now have the proper flat taper. This was easy to do on my benchtop lathe in 10 minutes for all 16, they are still deep enough that the stud does not bottom out and crack the cap. Solid lug nuts at last!

  2. #352
    Senior Member vwdmc16's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  sacramento

    Posts:    1,279

    My VIN:    1768

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Found a picture of the newly narrowed front end, its under a bit more compression than ride height, hence the extra camber. I also had to deepen my test angle drive /wheel centering cap. Need to 3d print a nice one soon.

    Other projects:

    Rebuild the shifter mechanism, full tear down, filed smooth a few notch areas, sand basted, powder coated, reassembled and wow it feels much nicer. some how this has fixed the issue of 5th gear randomly popping out of gear on the highway! I still need to replace the Crossgate cable as mine is extremely stiff and corroded, making the shifter very stiff left to right. Just another $200..... and Yes I wish I could get the DPI stainless shifter lever, maybe in a few more years.


    Also finally stripped down and powder coated my LCAs, new bushings which is what it really really needed.

  3. #353
    Senior Member Josh's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2013

    Location:  SK, Canada

    Posts:    1,650

    My VIN:    11408

    Club(s):   (TXDMC)

    Amazing work as usual Clint!

  4. #354
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

    Location:  Tacoma, Wa

    Posts:    1,670

    My VIN:    4877

    Very nice...wanna do mine?
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    The Ressurection of 4877......
    Now Accepting Donations to get her back on the road

  5. #355
    Senior Member DavidProehl's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Maple Grove, MN (Minneapolis)

    Posts:    1,186

    My VIN:    05457

    So nice!
    David Proehl

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