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Thread: The Restoration of #1768

  1. #351
    Senior Member vwdmc16's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  sacramento

    Posts:    1,309

    My VIN:    1768

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    How much further does the wheel / tire stick out of the wheel opening? How close is the tire to contacting the front of the wheel opening when the tires are turned inward with a load in the trunk? How close is the possible contact with the ARB at full steering stop.


    Sorry for the long delay.

    Short answer is they dont stick out too much but they are much larger!

    Here is the width from the front, yes they contact the front of the fender arch/ front lip with mild steering input. The wheels also rub on the swaybar at full lock but so did my stock 14" wheels, Remember I have a Mazda MX5 steering rack that gave me more steering angle since its has more travel than the DMC rack.





    Note they are still fully covered by the fender arch and when the suspension compresses it goes in father due to our natural camber gain of unequal length control arms.

    Here is a more head on picture




    Since the rubbing on the leading edge of the fender is not acceptable I took the hub design apart again and removed the 10mm spacers that were welded onto the Shattenkirk brake adapter brackets and I cut the wheel bearing- hub spacers down the same amount. This pulled the front wheel track inboard 20mm over all and has stopped the rubbing, the front track is still wider than stock at this point too. I think pulling it in helped improve the look of the wheel fitment, I prefer them to be sucked in a little not " hella flush" but not like a heavily Narrowed beam on an aircooled VW. one drawback is the Ive lost a bit more of my turning radius, however with my MX5 rack its its still TIGHTER than stock.




    I also have re machined the flange on the '95 Civic lug nuts ive been using, they now have the proper flat taper. This was easy to do on my benchtop lathe in 10 minutes for all 16, they are still deep enough that the stud does not bottom out and crack the cap. Solid lug nuts at last!



  2. #352
    Senior Member vwdmc16's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  sacramento

    Posts:    1,309

    My VIN:    1768

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Found a picture of the newly narrowed front end, its under a bit more compression than ride height, hence the extra camber. I also had to deepen my test angle drive /wheel centering cap. Need to 3d print a nice one soon.










    Other projects:

    Rebuild the shifter mechanism, full tear down, filed smooth a few notch areas, sand basted, powder coated, reassembled and wow it feels much nicer. some how this has fixed the issue of 5th gear randomly popping out of gear on the highway! I still need to replace the Crossgate cable as mine is extremely stiff and corroded, making the shifter very stiff left to right. Just another $200..... and Yes I wish I could get the DPI stainless shifter lever, maybe in a few more years.







    \




    Also finally stripped down and powder coated my LCAs, new bushings which is what it really really needed.





  3. #353
    Senior Member Josh's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2013

    Location:  SK, Canada

    Posts:    1,719

    My VIN:    11408

    Club(s):   (TXDMC)

    Amazing work as usual Clint!

  4. #354
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

    Location:  Tacoma, Wa

    Posts:    1,848

    My VIN:    4877

    Very nice...wanna do mine?
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    The Ressurection of 4877......
    Now Accepting Donations to get her back on the road

  5. #355
    Senior Member DavidProehl's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Maple Grove, MN (Minneapolis)

    Posts:    1,234

    My VIN:    05457

    So nice!
    David Proehl

  6. #356
    Senior Member vwdmc16's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  sacramento

    Posts:    1,309

    My VIN:    1768

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Happy new year everyone!

    It was only August of last year, I just finished one last road trip: a solo trip to Reno, NV for Hot August Nights; and I declared that I was limiting myself from buying anything else on my Delorean for the year. I was already over budget.....but the car and my will broke down and couldnt stop myself from another expensive order to improve me car.

    I heard many good things about the new Delorean vendor called Deloreango.com and I had a shopping list that they had great deals on. I really wanted a new shifter cable to round out my shifter rebuild since I knew the original cable still in the car was very worn and exceedingly stiff. That was the part I really wanted but I could really use new Ball joints and I had a few cooling parts that I needed after another incident. On a late night test drive in November and my Otterstat decided to blow out on a freeway on ramp. I did touch it the day before but I didnt think I disturbed it that much, Plus it was facing downward ( to avoid bubbles) and that made it rather close to the DMCH exhaust. After a long night with duct tape and some water I borrowed from some neighborhood water spigots, I was able to limp the 3 miles home on surface streets without overheating.


    I also didnt trust my water tank so a new one was ordered as well as some fresh ball joints for the LCAs.



    In with the new





    Out with the old!






    New vs old cable: shifter feels better and lighter but honestly not as light as I hoped.







    Much better thread in design fan switch:







    Rip that front end apart again! I had a bit of play in the passenger lower ball joint. new one is much tighter and pressed in nice and tight too!







    Also painted the front end finally.






    The rear also received some attention, New lower bolts to replace the tired old ones and I trimmed the lower bushing eyelet of the Bmw e32 cross reference shocks. The lower bushing is huge compared to any other shock set up available for Deloreans, and unfortunately they were gouging out the inner sidewall of my new BFG tires on hard turns. Still looking to try different shocks in this new year.




  7. #357
    Not a DeLorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Rochester, NY

    Posts:    2,048

    My VIN:    01049

    I've had mine blow out as well. Mine was zip tied in place, so it wasn't catastrophic, but it sure as hell wasn't good. I'll have to get one of those pipes well.
    -Mike
    1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap in progress
    1999 Corvette, cam/headers/intake manifold, 400 rwhp
    2005 Elise, stock
    2016 Chevy Cruze

  8. #358
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

    Location:  Tacoma, Wa

    Posts:    1,848

    My VIN:    4877

    Yaay, new parts. Looking good. my bottle is on my list, but pretty far down on the priority right now.
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    The Ressurection of 4877......
    Now Accepting Donations to get her back on the road

  9. #359
    Senior Member vwdmc16's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  sacramento

    Posts:    1,309

    My VIN:    1768

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Another update, the car has been sitting most of this time but ive been busy. Found a 85 volvo 760 at the local wreckers, looks like overheating finally did it in. I wanted to get a spare set of heads and cams to experiment with but they were far too rusted.






    I did grab the injectors, WUR, fuel dist, warm up switch, and cold start to clean up and use as spares since this stuff is only getting rarer. Ill send the injectors off to be cleaned and balanced. I also grabbed the different W pipe and throttle linkage as it should allow my BMW cruise control to be integrated easier.




    fuel dist cleaned up well.





    a Side project to rebuild some stock LCAs, reinforce, weld powdercoat and install new bushings and balljoints, these are set up for coil overs.









    Meanwhile back on my car, I stripped the engine back down to a short block to remove the cams, my waterpump inlet hose was leaking into the valley too, more to clean.




    Long story short the cams I bought when I rebuilt this engine in 2016 were not ground correctly, the engine made less power than stock. It sounded mean but had no bite, it also had very little engine vacuum, 12-14"hg so the brakes didnt even work well. So back to stock cams and maybe ill start up my 3.0 monster engine to satisfy my horsepower needs or go in another direction. I did not take any good pictures since nothing was really new and I was kind of upset throughout this process of trying to figure out my cams.

    While reassembling I cracked the water pump rear cover.






    So a quick TIG weld and its back in business, all because I wanted to change the color of the yellow W/P pulley to black.






    Also re routed the engine wire harness, replaced some wires, removed others, shortened a bunch of wires that were routed in a poor way. All the main power cables stay on the left side of the engine bay and follow the frame cradle to the starter instead of going through the engine where it could be damaged.






    Finally reassembled after many long hours, and fixing more faults including a bent intake valve on cyl # 4 after the head came back from a cam shop.
    I also added some gold heat reflective tape on the frame and heat shields, yet another experiment, trying to lower engine bay temps and save the frame paint from the hot headers.







    Finally running.






    Tried another product to help save my crumpling rear bumper foam, some thick coats of this spray able rubber sealer, works well.





    My test drive still yielded a bad alternator so time for another 1993 Saturn SL1 unit, plenty of voltage again, plus this one is much quieter than the old that always whined.






    In conclusion, im glad the car is back together but very disappointed with how it drives, and the engine feels boring and stock again, since it is. I may need to re-evaluate how I will proceed since I have not been happy with most of my modifications the last two years. ive done alot of work and spent alot of money but I dont feel like it was worth it.


  10. #360
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

    Location:  Tacoma, Wa

    Posts:    1,848

    My VIN:    4877

    Hehe..I hadnt though of flex seal...I used bedliner stuff that came in a rattle can.
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    The Ressurection of 4877......
    Now Accepting Donations to get her back on the road

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