Help dropping tranny

[David T]

So does Hylomar. I won't use that stuff again! The right silicone will work. There is NO gasket between the case halves and you must not use one, you will mess up bearing clearances.
David Teitelbaum

Silicone will leak. Every time.

[DMCMW Dave]

Permatex anaerobic .

[nkemp]

Here are some procedure related thoughts for future reference:

• When splitting the tranny, get a new input shaft seal. Yours may not be a problem but they are relatively inexpensive given that the Tranny is open. Mine did not leak but was not as pliable as a new one.
• The guy at the auto store says there is a tranny bracket that fits a floor jack. I have not seen but it sounds like it would make removal and installation easier. It keeps the tranny from rolling.
• When the tranny is not attached to the engine, the engine will pivot on its mount. This is problematic when reinstalling the tranny since you cannot get it aligned. Use another floor jack to push up around the oil pan and reorient the the engine. The tranny goes in a LOT easier when the engine is in the correct orientation.
  
  • That said, maybe the tranny would have come off easier if the engine was supported to prevent pivoting? Hmmmm.
  
  
• I had troubles keeping the throwout bearing properly positioned on the clutch fork while I tried to position the tranny against the engine. It kept coming off the fork. To remedy, position the bearing on the shaft and fork. Push it in (towards the tranny) as far as can be and use zip ties to secure the fork in that position (the Master Cylinder willpush it back out f not secured). The zip ties must be outside the bell housing and I tied them around the master cylinder. When the fork is pivoted most of the way towards the tranny (away from the clutch) the bearing stays on better. After the tranny is bolted to the engine, cut the zip ties to release the clutch fork making it workable.
• My rear main oil seal was not leaking around the ring seal. It was leaking around the housing.
• If the clutch pivot arm is in bad shape, now is the time to replace. Mine was in pretty good shape but went with a cleaned up & plated one from specialtauto.com
• After cleaning the alignment pins, I put neverseize type stuff on the alignment pins to help reduce future seizing.
• Check the drive shaft CV boots for cracking. One of mine was split. I replaced both and was surprised at how thick the grease was. Well worth doing or having done. I did it myself and it is a MESSY job. I did not disassemble the CV joint, just degreased and regreased.
• I used a little black RTV around the CV boot and the shaft & CV housing to help seal the joint. This is more important on the Bigger end than the far end.
• In the late 90's I took the frame out of the car and had it repaired and powdercoated. If yours is rusting and with the tranny out you may want to do some repairs like powdercoating the brackets and mounts. If your epoxy shows any sign of bubbling underneath, it may be rusting and the epoxy will easily chip off.

I did not split the tranny myself. I used a local tranny shop. For me I think it was the right choice. You choice may differ.

The nut on the end of the shaft inside the tranny was loose on mine. Not a lot, but loose. I've heard reports form others that the nut can actually work itself off and push through the tranny housing. In some ways, I was glad mine was loose since it justified the expense and effort.

The roll pin in mine was fine. None-the-less it is reenforced now.

I used a floor jack to remove and reinstall. The tranny wants to roll on the jack and if it fell off onto you it could kill. The car was on jack stands/blocked and as such I spent most of my time on my back. Not the easiest way to lift & move the tranny.

To remove and install, I had one son on the jack and the other under the car to help. Nobody was injured :-)

Would I do take it out and reinstall it myself again? Right after the tranny was finally attached I would have said NO. But time has a way of making you dumber and as such I probably would. It is not easy but definitely doable.

How does it run? I have not driven it yet... that should be in a couple days.

[David T]

Don't forget to remove the oil BEFORE removing the tranny (ask me how I know!) and do not forget to put it in before driving the car! If your C/V boot had to be replaced you should just do all 4. Taking the joints apart is not that big a deal, it makes it easier to get all of the old grease out and the new stuff in. Be careful not to bend the outer flange on the large end by letting the shaft hang loose. I don't like silicone on the C/V boots, when you tighten the clamp they tend to want to slide off the lip of the flange. If everything is properly positioned and you have the right clamps, when you tighten them up they won't leak. Using a floor jack you DO need an assistant to hold the tranny on the jack so it won't roll off. It WILL hurt and leave marks! The motor MUST be supported during tranny removal and installation. Check and readjust the shift linkage. Replace any worn rubber bushings. Make sure the shop set up your backlash on the final drive as per the Workshop Manual.
David Teitelbaum