How to modify the wings-a-loft system to allow for the addition of a manual switch?

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I appreciate that. I have a positive trigger from the remotezilla.
Now I just need to figure out what diode to buy at Radioshack......

[nullset]

I appreciate that. I have a positive trigger from the remotezilla.
Now I just need to figure out what diode to buy at Radioshack......

1N4XXX, where XXX is anything.

You want to connect to the OUTPUT side of the relays, not the input side. If you connect to the input side next to the remotezilla you may damage it.

Remotezilla ------> Relay ---------+---------> Door Popper ------> GROUND
Window Switch ------<|------------|
(DIODE)

Hopefully my ASCII diagram makes sense.

--buddy

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Like this?

"1N4001 Micro 1A Diodes"

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...rValue=Diodes#




How do you connect it? can I use butt connectors or does it have to be soldered?

[nullset]

That should be fine. Basically any diode will do, as long as it'll handle the current you're putting through it. That 1A diode should do just fine.

--buddy

[Nicholas R]

If you're going to use a 4xxx series diode from radioshack, definitely get 1N4007's as they have the highest reverse breakdown voltage (1amp 1000v), and I'm pretty positive radio shack sells them (course some radioshacks are a LOT better than others). Whenever I was replacing pinball or arcade game diodes I always upgraded to the 4007s. Still, those are somewhat small circuit board diodes (only 1amp); you should be able to find something a little bigger at radioshack. I know from experience that they sell 1N540X diodes that are 3 amp. I dont know what kind of current the launchers use but just something to consider. Their website shows them having at least 1N5404 (3amp 400V) Diodes: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062579 I know I had to buy them when rebuilding the power supply of my old Jurassic Park Pinball and I got them at a radioshack in Orlando, haha.


Here's a quick breakdown of the different types with their voltage and amperage ratings

Voltage - 1 Amp ---3 Amp
50 V----1N4001-- 1N5400
100 V --1N4002-- 1N5401
200 V --1N4003-- 1N5402
300 V —--------- 1N5403
400 V --1N4004-- 1N5404
500 V —--------- 1N5405
600 V --1N4005-- 1N5406
800 V --1N4006-- 1N5407
1000 V--1N4007-- 1N5408

Also just fyi you do NOT want a "Zener Diode"

[DeloreanJoshQ]

If you're going to use a 4xxx series diode from radioshack, definitely get 1N4007's as they have the highest reverse breakdown voltage (1amp 1000v), and I'm pretty positive radio shack sells them (course some radioshacks are a LOT better than others). Whenever I was replacing pinball or arcade game diodes I always upgraded to the 4007s. Still, those are somewhat small circuit board diodes (only 1amp); you should be able to find something a little bigger at radioshack. I know from experience that they sell 1N540X diodes that are 3 amp. I dont know what kind of current the launchers use but just something to consider. Their website shows them having at least 1N5404 (3amp 400V) Diodes: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062579 I know I had to buy them when rebuilding the power supply of my old Jurassic Park Pinball and I got them at a radioshack in Orlando, haha.


Here's a quick breakdown of the different types with their voltage and amperage ratings

Voltage - 1 Amp ---3 Amp
50 V----1N4001-- 1N5400
100 V --1N4002-- 1N5401
200 V --1N4003-- 1N5402
300 V —--------- 1N5403
400 V --1N4004-- 1N5404
500 V —--------- 1N5405
600 V --1N4005-- 1N5406
800 V --1N4006-- 1N5407
1000 V--1N4007-- 1N5408

Also just fyi you do NOT want a "Zener Diode"

Thanks Nicholas! How do I connect these in-line? Can I just crimp the ends with butt-connectors to the wires or do I have to solder them?

[nullset]

Thanks Nicholas! How do I connect these in-line? Can I just crimp the ends with butt-connectors to the wires or do I have to solder them?

I would crimp and then solder. You can probably just test by crimping it, though.

--buddy

[Nicholas R]

Agreed, definitely use solder in this connection.

[dmc6960]

Just thought of something. Are you hooking up both 12v and GND for the trigger relay coils to the window switch?

Since your Remotezilla output is 12v, try hooking up JUST the 12v to the window switch and the relay. Have the source power for the relay come from the lock breaker. I'd also suggest, for safety, have the GND for the relay coil come from the parking brake switch. I'm wiring mine up like that. I do believe this way you do not need diodes in the circuit. However I never verified last night the function of a window switch if the outputs are both open when not activated. That would need to be verified first.

[dmc6960]

Does this make sense? This can only work if the outputs of the window switch test OPEN when not activated. (Leaving the other input open should accomplish this, but I'm just repeating it just to be safe). I see no need for diodes to prevent back-feed into the RemoteZilla as those connections should be OPEN when not activated. If for whatever reason they are grounded, diodes would be necessary or you may blow the device.