Hi James, are you saying that you can determine the key code from the key itself (or image of the key)? My vin is not on file at DMCH and I would rather not take apart my headliner.
Thanks
Bill
You can definitely determine the key code from the key. It's just a matter of measuring it and finding the closest (either the same or the next lowest) code depth for that pin. This accounts for wear. Driver pins are usually hard and don't wear anywhere near as much as a key (by design).
I just talked to DMCH today to verify my key code. They use a blind code from what I can tell, the numbers are not what you set your depths to on the key machine. If I can find my calipers, I can probably figure out at least part of that blind code, unless one of you folks has that info handy.
You can definitely determine the key code from the key. It's just a matter of measuring it and finding the closest (either the same or the next lowest) code depth for that pin. This accounts for wear. Driver pins are usually hard and don't wear anywhere near as much as a key (by design).
I just talked to DMCH today to verify my key code. They use a blind code from what I can tell, the numbers are not what you set your depths to on the key machine. If I can find my calipers, I can probably figure out at least part of that blind code, unless one of you folks has that info handy.
-Bob
Thanks Bob. I just realized I don't know enough about keys. Then again, I also don't know the level of effort/risk to remove the headliner. I have no problem trying to learn how to decode, assuming that information is available.
I have one key (non-original) for my car and it's rather worn. I have a slight amount of trouble lining things up to lock/unlock the door. I was hoping to get a key cut from code before things get worse.
Thanks Bob. I just realized I don't know enough about keys. Then again, I also don't know the level of effort/risk to remove the headliner. I have no problem trying to learn how to decode, assuming that information is available.
I have one key (non-original) for my car and it's rather worn. I have a slight amount of trouble lining things up to lock/unlock the door. I was hoping to get a key cut from code before things get worse.
Time for me to start searching about this...
Just photocopy/scan or take a picture of it and send it to DMCH. They can measure right from the picture and cut you one. You can also buy blanks and take to a local lock shop like I did. Oddly, I had to show them how to measure... These guys are much older than me but I guess I was in the trade when men were men and people knew how to measure codes.
Incidentally, this is so easy that you can snap photos of janitor keyrings from a block away with a decent telescope and... well, you get the idea. A photocopy sent in will be no trouble for them.
Thanks Bob. I just realized I don't know enough about keys. Then again, I also don't know the level of effort/risk to remove the headliner. I have no problem trying to learn how to decode, assuming that information is available.
I have one key (non-original) for my car and it's rather worn. I have a slight amount of trouble lining things up to lock/unlock the door. I was hoping to get a key cut from code before things get worse.
Time for me to start searching about this...
The headliner is easy to remove - just a fir-tree connector in each corner. Pulls off easily.
I bought a blank key from DMCH and had a local key-cutter cut it based off my old key, just like getting a spare housekey cut. Of course, once the guy learned it was for a deLorean, he insisted on personally making sure that it worked. Such great customer service
Dermot
VIN 2743, B/A, Frame 2227, engine 2320
I don't always drive cars, but when I do, I prefer DeLoreans
Hi James, are you saying that you can determine the key code from the key itself (or image of the key)? My vin is not on file at DMCH and I would rather not take apart my headliner.
Thanks
Bill
Absolutely - but only for ignition/late door keys. I do it all the time here when people want to know their key codes or want a key cut to the code but don't know it. We have an incomplete set of key codes from factory records. We now record (or decode as required) the keycode for every car that comes into DMC (Texas) in case a customer loses their keys and the car is locked with no access - we can then cut them a key to code.
I don't do the early style door keys, mostly because of little demand and therefore have not tracked down the cutting/code cross-reference. I also don't have a cutting machine for the early door keys, like we do for the later door/all ignition keys.
If anyone wants to have their key decoded, send a good, clear, close-up photo like shown to me at "[email protected]" and I will decode and return. I have also attached a article I wrote some time ago about where to look for keycodes on your car.
These machines can read your key and generate the code. I don't know if it matches the original DMC code, but it doesn't need to. The database that comes in the software with these machines is just using that code to pick a pattern out of all the possibilities that matches your key and ignition.
As Dermot mentioned with making a key based on the physical one you bring in to the locksmith, the key is getting more and more away from the original pattern every time you use it. If you cut a new key from your worn down key, the new key is only going to be as accurate as the now 30 year old one is on that day. If your key code is recognized, it will create a new key with all the exact geometry it was supposed to have in the first place. This doesn't happen making duplicates from the physical copy.
Thankfully we don't have microchips in our keys like some cars. You'll likely need to show your ownership to the locksmith making you a new key, but not because their system knows anything about your particular VIN, it's because they need to know you actually own a DeLorean.
Lots of great advice. I really appreciate it. James was also very helpful teaching me a few things about the keys. Unfortunately my "copy of a copy" is very worn. We can guess from an image but it's not a sure thing. After speaking with James, I did find my other lost key but it appears it is actually an original key (attached - am I correct?). I previously thought I stored a perfect key somewhere. The original key also appears to be in bad shape.
For the sake of the thread, I was hoping someone could validate some assumptions I am making based on my exchange with James. After a lot of searching, I never found details about bitting pattern or how to decode this yourself.
- There are six possible cuts for a DeLorean key. Start counting from the head of the key.
- Each cut can be at one of four depths. "no cut" is a 1. I assume that 4 is the depth nearest (deepest) to the groove and 2 is the farthest cut (most shallow) from the groove.
- There are eight digits that get cross referenced to the code. I'm not sure I understand how the last two digits are determined and it probably doesn't matter since I don't have the code book anyway.
Do I have this right?
Unless I make a big breakthrough, I may try to get a locksmith to help decode the keys I have and then get keys made with the DMCH blanks.
Lots of great advice. I really appreciate it. James was also very helpful teaching me a few things about the keys. Unfortunately my "copy of a copy" is very worn. We can guess from an image but it's not a sure thing. After speaking with James, I did find my other lost key but it appears it is actually an original key (attached - am I correct?). I previously thought I stored a perfect key somewhere. The original key also appears to be in bad shape.
James was able to successfully decode my keys via photograph and saved me the process of removing the headliner. The lesson I learned was to take photographs of my keys (in general) while they are still in good shape and not lost.