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Thread: Fuel Pump replacement

  1. #41
    Banned
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    During my A/C break, I decided to measure an 8mm banjo bolt: OD .313" (7.95mm), hollow diameter .165" (4.19mm). That means the walls are .074" (1.88mm) thick. Material composition notwithstanding, an 8mm banjo bolt has slightly less material across its barrel than a 7mm solid bolt (35.85 sq mm versus 38.48 sq mm).

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  2. #42
    Senior Member 1batt4u's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Queens, NY

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    I am working on my fuel system!! I have John Hervey's Power Pump Kit! Wanted to know about the tune can thing that some do!!

    I also remember someone posting a S/S can offered at Mcmaster-Carr!! Does anyone remember?? Have a part number for it??

    Thanks!!!
    Billy C. VIN: 2964

    "Trying to Live the Dream!"

    "If you're gonna own a DeLorean, why not build it with some style?"

    http://www.facebook.com/billy.chingas.7

  3. #43
    Senior Member 1batt4u's Avatar
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    Bump!
    Billy C. VIN: 2964

    "Trying to Live the Dream!"

    "If you're gonna own a DeLorean, why not build it with some style?"

    http://www.facebook.com/billy.chingas.7

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by DCUK Martin View Post
    This is an old thread, but still very useful. I put a new fuel pump in the car today and found this thread when I was looking for confirmation on what the torque setting was for the dome nut on top of the pump's banjo bolt. I found that, but actually have a different question now.

    When I was reattaching the return hose to the pump and boot assembly, I realized the other end of my return hose isn't connected to anything. I can see clearly in Martin's video or John's photos that while the end of the hose doesn't "plug" into anything, it is supposed to be clipped into place and held against the inside edge of the baffle assembly.

    I don't have any kind of clip on mine, none that I could find or feel anyway. And I'm not so sure there was one there before today. I worked with the pump and sender inside the tank years ago, but I don't recall pulling on that hose enough to dislodge it or move it much. So I don't really know how it was sitting inside there beforehand.

    What I am wondering is, what is the significance of having that hose clipped in place and furthermore, clipped so that it empties/returns "inside" the baffle contained space?

    That hose is under next to no pressure, so I don't foresee it flopping around all wildly inside the tank. I can't think of any reason that return fuel would need to go inside the baffle area versus outside for filtering reasons or maintaining level in that baffle.

    In a perfect world I would get in there and remove the baffle and reinstall a clip (or zip-tie as I think Martin mentioned), but I'm not keen on the hassle of doing that if for no good reason. Just trying to understand what might be the downside of leaving that return hose just laying inside the tank wherever it might on its own.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  5. #45
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Fuel Pump replacement

    The return hose is normally positioned to dump its return fuel into the baffle cup. There is supposed to be a metal clip that holds the hose in place that clips too the top edge of the baffle cup. You can probably do the same thing by tie-wrapping the hose into the cup.

    The purpose of dumping fuel into the baffle is to keep continuous fuel supplied at the pickup. The return flow is volume rate is very high. This this ensures the baffle cup is full at all times even in very low fuel conditions. Excess fuel just overflows the cup assembly continuously.

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    Last edited by DMC5180; 07-30-2018 at 12:05 AM.
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