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Thread: How To: Removing intake manifold

  1. #1
    Stuck in the 80s John U's Avatar
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    How To: Removing intake manifold

    I won't take credit for this fine piece of how-to....I saved it from the old dmctalk
    Attached Files

  2. #2
    Junior Member
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    Great info. I'd like to replace all the old bolts with new stainless ones when I do my valley. Does anyone have a list of these and their sizes?

  3. #3
    Stuck in the 80s John U's Avatar
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    http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean...ng-system.html

    special T auto sells a waterpump kit that has every bolt and seal that you should replace


    John

  4. #4
    Senior Member 1batt4u's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOWAX View Post
    Great info. I'd like to replace all the old bolts with new stainless ones when I do my valley. Does anyone have a list of these and their sizes?
    I think I saw on the forum someone mentioning that they offer a whole set of SS bolts for the entire engine! Not sure! I've been posting and asking questions, looking up stuff, so I get a little mixed up here and there!!
    Billy C. VIN: 2964

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  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    I just happened across this how-to article since I am going to be doing a tune-up on my car in the near future and wanted instructions on how to remove/replace the intake manifold.

    I was surprised to see the PDF referenced the fuel hose diagram I created back in 2000!

    It appears that the DMCNews.com-hosted image for this fuel diagram is no longer loading.

    I was able to pull that image from archive.org and I am adding it to this post for future reference.

    I'm flattered that my diagram was included in this how-to article!

    fuel+system+diagram2.jpg

    Thanks.

    -Nick Pitello

    PS: My AOL address is no longer valid lol

    If the image is too small, use this link from the archive.org website:

    https://web.archive.org/web/20110727.../fuelhoses.htm

  6. #6
    Senior Member Rich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOWAX View Post
    Great info. I'd like to replace all the old bolts with new stainless ones when I do my valley. Does anyone have a list of these and their sizes?
    Read this link before you decide to do that. The old bolts are zinc plated steel, which is the OE design. Unless you are sure that stainless will be better I'd recommend putting on fresh OE-style zinc-plated steel bolts.

    I can't say I've seen the stainless-aluminum problem personally.

    Anybody else on the forum know whether using stainless steel bolts in an aluminum block is OK or not OK?
    March '81, 5-speed, black interior

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    Read this link before you decide to do that. The old bolts are zinc plated steel, which is the OE design. Unless you are sure that stainless will be better I'd recommend putting on fresh OE-style zinc-plated steel bolts.

    I can't say I've seen the stainless-aluminum problem personally.

    Anybody else on the forum know whether using stainless steel bolts in an aluminum block is OK or not OK?
    While in theory the galvanic corrosion is applicable with stainless and aluminum, it seems less of an issue in practice. Stainless steal fasteners have been used on aluminum aircraft cowlings for decades. While their contact is often insulated with paint when new, over time there is direct metal to metal contact. Most aircraft are kept in a hanger but many primary trainers face the elements on the ramp. Even in these worst case examples, there have not been large galvanic corrosion issues reported. But its important to remember there are various types and quality of both aluminum and stainless. Low quality stainless can oxidize. This creates an issue regardless of the surrounding material. When I use stainless hardware, I always use some anti-seize agent on the threads. Additionally, CorrosionX (or some other inhibitor) can also be applied.

    Ron
    Last edited by DMC-Ron; 04-16-2019 at 04:22 AM.

  8. #8
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
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    I think the issue with stainless fasteners is more about thread galling:

    https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...d-galling.aspx
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  9. #9
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    I think the issue with stainless fasteners is more about thread galling:

    https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...d-galling.aspx
    Exactly, I always use anti-seize when using stainless hardware.
    Ron

  10. #10
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
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    I've heard about anti-galvanic corrosion for a while now, but my SS bolts come out of the aluminum no problem without anti seize after 4 years. I have sheared multiple zinc plated bolts that rusted though. Granted the zinc bolts are much older, there is a still a very good chance that zinc plated bolts will rust if used anywhere but the interior. Using a ratchet and combo wrenches, I've never had anything gall either.

    However, SS bolts are weaker than grade 8 bolts and I will not use them on anything where strength will be an issue like the axles or flywheel.

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