FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD
www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Accipiter
I take that back... I removed both diodes from the car and tested each individually with the meter. Neither had continuity from one side to the other.
You can pull your door diodes an use those to test after you have found and fixed the wiring problem. Door diodes are in harness beside the drivers right leg (center console). The colors of the diodes mean nothing so all are interchangeable.
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DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439
Originally Posted by
Accipiter
I take that back... I removed both diodes from the car and tested each individually with the meter. Neither had continuity from one side to the other.
Did you test the diodes in both directions? They have a polarity and will generally read open one way and a few ohms the other way.
If they are open both ways it's time for a trip to Radio Shack.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
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DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439
Originally Posted by
Bitsyncmaster
You can pull your door diodes an use those to test after you have found and fixed the wiring problem. Door diodes are in harness beside the drivers right leg (center console). The colors of the diodes mean nothing so all are interchangeable.
Yeah - fix the wiring first or you'll burn them out too.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
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Member
I had this same problem. I melted the whole row of relays next to the fan relays. Make sure you can cut your battery power quickly. However, after wiring in a new relay strip everything worked.
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DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439
Originally Posted by
Masaes727
I had this same problem. I melted the whole row of relays next to the fan relays. Make sure you can cut your battery power quickly. However, after wiring in a new relay strip everything worked.
That's a different problem - this is what happens if you put the lambda (2x15) relay in the fan relay socket. Dead short from unfused hot to ground. He's working on a very modified wiring setup.
Which is why there is a big sticker that says DO NOT INTERCHANGE MODULES
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
DMCMW Dave
Check for sure, but I'm guessing you have the black (brown)/oranges (86 and 87) swapped around. I don't recall the specifics but my recollection is that the schematic colors don't match the wire colors, and that they use the orange trace for different purposes.
I pretty much ignored the factory wiring schematic and was relying solely on Toby's included instructions that came with the mod kit.
Originally Posted by
DMCMW Dave
The solid brown should be going to the breaker, and the breaker should be feeding the two 87s. This is the power source for the relays that ultimately powers the fans.
There are two circuit breakers. The first one has Brown/Orange from the battery on the BAT terminal, and Black/Orange to Socket 1 on the AUX terminal. The second breaker has a Brown wire which (presumably) goes to the battery since it carries 12v. That's connected to the BAT terminal on the breaker, along with the wire to the starter solenoid. There are three other connectors, all of which have solid brown wires that go into the loom. None connect directly to the sockets. (I wish I knew which wire did what, but it's pretty terrible since they're ALL BROWN. )
Originally Posted by
DMCMW Dave
The two 30s should be feeding the two fans respectively when the relay is engaged. (Black/Green?)
Check.
Originally Posted by
DMCMW Dave
The 86s should be the trigger wiring coming from the two diodes. If that traces back to the circuit breaker that's your problem, this would energize the relays all the time.
You've lost me on this one.
Originally Posted by
DMCMW Dave
The 85s should be ground (relay coil ground)
Pretty sure this is correct.
Originally Posted by
DMCMW Dave
The two 87a should be ground (this grounds the motors when off)
Also pretty sure this is right.
Originally Posted by
DMCMW Dave
If you have fed the fans from the diode circuit, as I said before, you have probably smoked the diodes.
Just ordered four more from DMCH. (I don't suppose you can get these things locally...)
Originally Posted by
DMCMW Dave
PS - do you have a real name?
Chris.
- Chris
what
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Member
Originally Posted by
DMCMW Dave
That's a different problem - this is what happens if you put the lambda (2x15) relay in the fan relay socket. Dead short from unfused hot to ground. He's working on a very modified wiring setup.
Which is why there is a big sticker that says DO NOT INTERCHANGE MODULES
It did make for a two day crash course in wiring 101 though.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
DMCMW Dave
Did you test the diodes in both directions? They have a polarity and will generally read open one way and a few ohms the other way.
I did indeed. No continuity in either direction on either diode.
- Chris
what
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Bitsyncmaster
You can pull your door diodes an use those to test after you have found and fixed the wiring problem. Door diodes are in harness beside the drivers right leg (center console). The colors of the diodes mean nothing so all are interchangeable.
According to DMCH, white diodes are 3A and black diodes are 1A.
Either way, I ordered four more of the 1A diodes.
Originally Posted by
DMCMW Dave
Yeah - fix the wiring first or you'll burn them out too.
Indeed. I just wish this spaghetti was a little more coherent.
- Chris
what
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Accipiter
According to DMCH, white diodes are 3A and black diodes are 1A.
Either way, I ordered four more of the 1A diodes.
Indeed. I just wish this spaghetti was a little more coherent.
I know I've got red diodes and I think I have a blue one.
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