New carpet, soundproofing, and dynamat - any tips?

[TTait]

I have stripped the interior out of the car today, and gotten 99% of the old foam sound insulation out (goof off is fantastic at helping get the old foam and glue residue out BTW)

I'm about to install dyamat, a Hervey foam insulation kit, and the DMCH carpet kit that I've had sitting around for a while. I have a couple of questions:

Dynamat everywhere? I have plenty. I'm thinking I'll put it in under where the foam will go on the firewall and parcel area, on the face of the plywood panel behind the seats, on the wheel arches and around the factory speaker locations under the removed plastic armrest panels and as much of the tub and tunnel as possible. Anywhere I shouldn't put it? I'm guessing that putting dynamat on the top side of the tunnel will screw up getting the center console on properly?

Assuming I put it down on the fiberglass in the firewall area, no problems then gluing the foam soundproofing onto dynamat - right?

Is the dynamat going to create any clearance problems?

I have a can of headliner glue - is that the same thing as carpet glue or do I need to go hunt that down?

Any advice appreciated...

[TTait]

Bump - 41 views - anyone have any tips? - I'm getting back to work soon.

I'll post pics later.

T

[stevedmc]

Use peal n seal instead of dynamat. It is much cheaper and you can get it at hardware stores such as Lowes and Home Depot.

[tgraham]

It's pretty straightforward. I just installed Dynamat in the rear section (all around the bulkhead and rear deck). The only thing to note is: I put it all along the wheel arches, then tried to put the factory foam on top just for an extra layer... the bulkhead trim does not fit well with this arrangement. I ended up just trashing the factory foam and sticking with just the Dynamat for that area. No problems.

I used another 1/2" sound-deadening foam on top of the Dynamat to replace the factory foam in all places (except the wheel arches, of course).

Also, I took out all of the electrics behind the seats and installed the Dynamat directly to the fiberglass, as opposed to the wood shelf panels - this way the ugly Dynamat doesn't show if you slide/remove the parcel shelf carpet. I skipped applying it to the "second bulkhead" (vertical wood panel) for the same reason. There's already about a 1/4" layer of sealant in there, plus the wood panel.

Here's how it looked before adding the second soundproofing layer on top:



You can't see it from that photo, but the Dynamat extends all underneath the console and onto the floor. I ran out, but will do the rest at some point.

Good luck.

Travis

[dmc6960]

Not to contradict, but I strongly suggest against Peel N Seel. It's an asphalt based product, not butyl like dynamat. Over a few years the asphault will break down and become brittle, thus not dampening the panels anymore. That's the best case scenario! Worst case will be on an extremely hot day it will actually liquify and make a complete mess of everything. I've seen pictures of this happening, not in a DeLorean though. Certainly something where it's worth spending the money on the right stuff.

[TTait]

I purchased a big roll or a dynamat competitor, but still butyl. It seems to have the same specs, but not the dynamat logo.

Travis, are you happy with the results?

[tgraham]

Travis, are you happy with the results?

I have yet to do a real road test - there's still no engine on the other side. I did the next best thing, though: turned "The Boneyard" up really loud on the radio and sat inside It seemed effective.

Travis

[QuadcityDMC]

I just put new carpet in my car and I just removed the old and installed the new. It's a tight fit with out having that extra pading under the carpet. I drove it and the inside sounded fine to me. However I had a little motor problem that turned into a Stage 2 upgrade so I might go back and add that pading but Ill see how load it gets inside.

[TTait]

Travis,

I followed your lead and lifted out the drivers side electronics tray no problem - but the question is now raised - did you do the same thing with the fuse box tray on the passenger side? It looks from the parts diagram like there are two screws holding it in, as two as two rivets, maybe?

It looks like it could just flip inboard pretty easily, but I don't want to test that as a theory without more information. Did you co it?

Tom

[tgraham]

It looks from the parts diagram like there are two screws holding it in, as two as two rivets, maybe?

It looks like it could just flip inboard pretty easily, but I don't want to test that as a theory without more information.

I took both sides out - the relay/fuse tray will remove in a similar fashion to the computer tray. There are two small black (M5 or so) machine screws attaching it to rivnuts. It sounds like your car may be missing the ones on the driver's side - they should both attach this way.

I detached the wiring harness connectors from the bulkhead frame (requires detaching that from the fiberglass and moving it out a bit), removed the large ground connection, then removed the relay tray - at that point, the whole assembly can be moved out of the way.

As an aside, all of those rivnuts and bulkhead holes means cutting the Dynamat out around them. I cut them out as I went. A roller helps to make an indention show up clearly through the Dynamat as you roll over them.

Good luck. And also, let us know how your road test goes when you get there!

Travis