Spec .01 Exhaust

[stevedmc]

Does anyone have any pictures of Bill's Spec .01 Exhaust and what he used? I am ready to replace my exhaust as my muffler heat shield is almost toast and simply don't want to deal with the heat problem any longer.

[SamHill]

I'll let Bill chime in with the JC Whitney parts list, of which the size of the flanges are the most important bit of information as to what you need most. The rest is just u -bolts, flex pipe, and whatever mufflers you decide you want to use. (I used BMW Motorcycle Pipes.)

Though it seems easy on the surface, it wasn't the easiest of jobs mostly because of the state of the frozen studs. If I had to do it over, I'd go ahead and send off the exhaust manifolds to be blasted and rethreaded. There were also several adjustments that had to be made to secure the pipes in place so that it wouldn't move around and "shift" after a drive. The main interference problem for me was the passenger side, where the exhaust pipe coming out touches the fiberglass underbody. I didn't cut the underbody, I just forced the pipe up as far as it would go and made sure it was firmly in place with braces.

I'm glad it's done and I don't want to do it again any time soon. It will be easy as pie to get off if I ever decide on something else.

[stevedmc]

This is just a thought but has anyone considered running just one muffler using the existing crossover instead of running tubing to each header for dual mufflers?

I like the idea of two mufflers but it would be much easier to install just one and to use the existing crossover.

[content22207]

My particular exhaust system was designed expressly to eliminate the crossover pipe. #5939 was still running K-Jet when it was installed. My intention then was to access things like the ignition distributor, slave cylinder, heater core shutoff valve, etc from below (I had no idea at the time that I would be running a carburetor 16 months later, making all those things accessible from above). Without a crossover pipe in the way, K-Jet maintenance really isn't too bad from underneath the car.

There indeed is a recess cast into the driver side pontoon for the stock exhaust system. I cut a matching recess in the passenger side. My intention was to re-fiberglass the cut out piece upside down, making both sides identical, but I misplaced the piece. It was just found again over the winter.

#5939's exhaust system was never intended to be a prototype for others. I simply wanted better engine access for myself, so I rigged up something that accomplished it (for less than $150, thank you very much). Increased performance was just a fringe benefit. Space outside the engine cradle is totally wasted. Makes no sense to jamb everything in tightly when you can spread it out and get much better access. That's my biggest complaint about the headers vendors sell -- they are still all in the way. #5939's exhaust system may not be perfect, but it does allow unfettered access to the engine:
Converter4.jpg Converter5.jpg

Bill Robertson
#5939

[content22207]

Since I already had my floor jack and camera out to photograph #5939's front end, I decided to snap a complete series of the exhaust system in back:
Exhaust1.jpg Exhaust2.jpg Exhaust3.jpg Exhaust4.jpg Exhaust5.jpg Exhaust6.jpg Exhaust7.jpg Exhaust8.jpg

Yes, I do have more room to work on my engine:
MoreRoom1.jpg

In another thread, owners were moaning and complaining about access for the slave cylinder (personally I don't see what all the fuss is about):
SlaveCylinder.jpg

If K-Jetters have never seen Spark Plug #4, this is what it looks like:
SparkPlug4.jpg

Bill Robertson
#5939

[stevedmc]

If K-Jetters have never seen Spark Plug #4, this is what it looks like:
SparkPlug4.jpg

That looks more like a spark plug boot to me.

[stevedmc]

Bill, on the old forum you posted information about the tubing size and clamps you had to use. Do you still have this information? I am seriously considering placing an order with JC Whitney over the next day or so and have no clue where to begin.

[content22207]

Says the man who hurt my feelings Re: Spark Plug #4....

$ 32 (2) McMaster Part #45735K295 (304 stainless pipe stub, 1 1/2 NPT, schedule 10)
$ 0 (6) 2" stainless guillotine clamps (I will give these to you if you find me 2 cardboard door headliner backing boards)
$ 72 JC Whitney Part #1JA 214045 (11 ft 304 stainless flex tubing, 1 7/8" ID, 2" OD)
$150 (2) Jegs Part #642-11134 (Magnaflow 3.5x7x14 inch stainless muffler, 2" offset inlet/outlet)
$ 20 eBay Auction #130469878213 (2 ft stainless exhaust tubing, 2" OD)
$ 14 (4) Autozone muffler hangers
----
$288 (Approximately double what I paid in 2003, albeit with $15 carbon steel mufflers)

Does not include el fake'o make believe catalytic converters.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[stevedmc]

Wow, thank you so much for the info. I was never expecting such a breakdown.

I have some headliner boards laying around I can send you. I replaced mine with fiberglass units a while back. I'll see if I can get you some pictures of them tomorrow.

Btw, I was just being sarcastic about plug #4. I love how easy it is to access everything. In fact, I took my carburetor off yesterday just to inspect my intake valley just for giggles. It was filthy down there.

[content22207]

Btw, I was just being sarcastic about plug #4. I love how easy it is to access everything. In fact, I took my carburetor off yesterday just to inspect my intake valley just for giggles.

I find it difficult to inspect the intake valley by removing the carburetor alone -- you really should remove the intake manifold as well.

(Sarcasm turn about is fair play...).

Bill Robertson
#5939