Vacuum Bleeder discussion***Split from Torquing thread***

[Spittybug]

Now trying to figure out why I can't bleed the damned brakes with that new vacuum bleeder from HF............... I bled out the old, filled the reservoir with new and starting with RR wheel, can seem to get any fluid to come out. Yes, I've bled plenty before. Here's a dumb question, why are the front bleeders 10mm and the rear ones 3/8" ???

[dmc]

I have never had success vacuum bleeding. Air always gets sucked in around the bleeder threads once you loosen them. Most times I just leave the bleeders open and let them gravity drip.

[DMC5180]

Looks like Ron needs more to do.

The only nut that I really couldn't torque properly was the upper control arm's ball joint. The back nut on the steering knuckle gets in the way. I could only get a 1/6 or so turn on it with a wrench before re-positioning again, so I just kept at it. Keeping an eye for the cotter pin hole to reveal itself, as soon as a pin would go through the torquing was getting pretty tight, so I called it even and stuck the pin through. All others are torqued per spec.

Now trying to figure out why I can't bleed the damned brakes with that new vacuum bleeder from HF............... I bled out the old, filled the reservoir with new and starting with RR wheel, can seem to get any fluid to come out. Yes, I've bled plenty before. Here's a dumb question, why are the front bleeders 10mm and the rear ones 3/8" ???

I've never had any luck with vacuum bleeding a dry system. It always seem to draw air around the the bleeder threads. I prefer the good ole 2 person method.

[Ron]

Looks like Ron needs more to do.
...
Now trying to figure out why I can't bleed the damned brakes with that new vacuum bleeder from HF............... I bled out the old, filled the reservoir with new and starting with RR wheel, can seem to get any fluid to come out. Yes, I've bled plenty before. Here's a dumb question, why are the front bleeders 10mm and the rear ones 3/8" ???

LOL Kept me awake babysitting the EMS pager...

I forgot where I posted this before-
Get a helper to work the pedal, wear eye protection, remove the bleeder, press your thumb over the hole, signal helper to press the pedal, remove thumb, replace thumb quickly, release pedal, wait a couple seconds, repeat until fluid arrives, replace bleeder, proceed with regular bleeding procedures. (Sometimes omitting the wait will speed up the process/help but may hinder the MC from refilling at first and may cause a sudden spray.) Rinse off ASAP.
ALWAYS works for me on non-ABS systems.

[DMCMW Dave]

I've never had any luck with vacuum bleeding a dry system. It always seem to draw air around the the bleeder threads. I prefer the good ole 2 person method.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Motive+Products/715/0103/10002/-1 although I'm not sure this is the exact one (there are different caps). But you'll get the idea. Get one that fits BMW/Saab etc.

[Spittybug]

Well, it turns out that the brake fluid reservoir is deceiving. When I looked in it I thought it was half full. In reality it must have been much lower. I filled it up and began pumping again. That HF vacuum gun is useless. I'm going to take it back and see if I can get my money back because it sucks (or doesn't....) I, like all suggestions posted above, found that a big old Vodka bottle and a long length of clear tubing is the best. That way I can put the bottle where I can see it and pump the brakes until the bubbles stop. The first few strokes out of the back brakes was nasty brown stuff. I guess it's been too long since I've done them. The big jugs of DOT4 are cheap enough that I don't mind wasting some by using it as a flush.

Almost back together.

[DMC5180]

http://www.jegs.com/i/Motive+Products/715/0103/10002/-1 although I'm not sure this is the exact one (there are different caps). But you'll get the idea. Get one that fits BMW/Saab etc.

A pressure bleeder is the best way for sure. Thanks for the link, I may have to look into one of those.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I went back to using the check valve bleeder. It worked on my DD with ABS and gets the job done quickly with the D. Only thing is, you always will see bubbles from the bleeder threads. So I just run till I get about 6 oz of fluid.

[EdR5150]

You can also build your own pressure bleeder: http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm But sourcing the parts, and assembling takes time. $60 for the Motive bleeder isn't much more than you would spend building your own. It's already built, and it includes a nice pressure gauge. It's the route I went. The motive bleeder includes a coupling in the tubing, so you could buy or make your own attachments for any reservoir:

91083891_R_152cc063.jpg

After a few junkyard trip, I have extra reservoir caps for all my vehicles. I've even got some spare Delorean/Saab caps.

[DMCMW Dave]

I built the one we still use in the shop based that BMW article. It still says "Ace Hardware" on it.


Mods might want to split the bleeder info off this torque wrench thread.