Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Make sure you hear the fuel pump running. If you are sure it's running, press on the air sensor plate and see if it has any resistance. If it does then your problem is most likely spark. Clean the connections on the white ballast resistor on the firewall. My bet is the fuel pump is not running. Most likely the RPM relay is bad. Jumper it and try again. Or the # 7 fuse is melted.
David Teitelbaum
I will look at#7. This car has a switch that turns on the fuel pump, on the consol...so when you turn on the car the pump goes on, if you turn the switch off it shuts off the pump, car dies. I started a new thread, as the Float issue has been solved... How do I test for voltage on the Ballast?
And... Thanks
Ok, just got the car, I drove it about a 1/2 mile, it started losing power...and died. It did not want to re-start, 5 min later it did start, and ran like a 1/4 mile and died again. The gas gauge read full, I took gas cap off, and shook the car, did not hear swishing... I put 2 gallons of gas in the car, and it started. I found the Float was stuck at the top, but it looked like more than 2 gallons of gas in the tank.. Next day It started, I moved it a few feet to do some clean up..Later it won't start.
It cranks great, I can smell fuel in the back.. What should I look at? What voltage should I get at the coil? Ballast? where to measure? Here is a pic, and Thanks....
Location: atlanta, ga, usa, earth, sol, milky way
Posts: 1,088
My VIN: 2072
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
How long was it sitting?
Sounds like bad gas and/or clogged injectors. I'd definitely drain the gas tank if it was sitting for any period of time and clean everything, then put in some fresh gas.
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
Well holy jumpin', 5 years later I finally found someone with the same erroneous ballast resistor wiring as I once had!!
Not sure if you can zoom in on the ballast picture, or take another one close up, but in a nutshell, that lower left pin is not supposed to have a wire on it. Instead the one on the upper right is supposed to have two. I'll see if I can scrounge up the wiring colours, but in the meantime, here are two pictures, before and after, of my car and the ballast resistor. I melted the one wire connector twice until I figured out where it was supposed to go... The car also coincidentally died when this happened. Once out on a road in town near my house... and the other time in the parking lot of an A&W cruise night.
Picture 1 (before)... notice the darker blue connector with the melty spots
IMG_2267.jpg
Picture 2 (after)... light blue new connectors, plus the double tabbed pin thingy that let's you connect both at the same time to the same post. You can find these at an Auto Parts store or something similar.
IMG_2312.jpg
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
Hey Craig,
I didn't see this thread until after I replied in your fuel capacity thread.
Maybe a moderator could move or copy my post to here?
Basically from what I see you have the wiring incorrect on the ballast resistor. Looks the same as I what I first had when I got my car. I explained more in the other post... with pictures
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Location: Purmerend, Netherlands
Posts: 747
My VIN: 06513
Club(s): (DCN)
This is the wiring setup for the resistor pack as refered to in a previous reply.
(Courtesy of John Hervey's).
resistor-original.jpg
Welmoed
Black D 1981-11 sold
Toyota Prius III 2009-07 (sold)
Mazda MX-30 (BEV) 2020-09