Is this the pin that needs to come out

[DMC5180]

I'm not sure how well the mineral spirits will penetrate the micro tolerances. But I'm sure using the B-12 chemtool will do the job.

[DMCMW Dave]

I'm not sure how well the mineral spirits will penetrate the micro tolerances. But I'm sure using the B-12 chemtool will do the job.

And do a fine job of dissolving the internal o-rings. I would be very careful with this.

[uhhair]

And do a fine job of dissolving the internal o-rings. I would be very careful with this.

Dave, what would you suggest?

[DMC5180]

Yeah , I was wondering if the O-rings would be effected by submerging it. Perhaps just brushing it on the outside and and pouring a little in the bore to allow it to penetrate around the piston would be better.

[Ron]

So it's OK to just drop the entire distributor in a bowl of mineral spirits?

I use P7 (by Polywater, NOT PB) if I'm worried about plastic or rubber (and for most anything electrical). It will not bother Nitrile and although Viton will absorb it, it doesn't make it swell/dissolve (even when soaked at 120F for days, IIRC). NAPA and others can order it if they don't stock it...

If you are not going to take it apart, just concentrate on the plunger. Patience is the key!
If you are going to take it apart (don't), drop it in acetone and ATF 50/50 mix.

[uhhair]

Thanks guys! I will try just getting some solvent down around the plunger and hoping it can work loose. Also, the brass ring surrounding the outside of the piston in the picture, is this where a rubber o-ring goes when I put the unit back on?

[Ron]

It goes against the base...looks like the old one may still be there in your pics...

[OverlandMan]

And do a fine job of dissolving the internal o-rings. I would be very careful with this.

Hey guys. I know this is an old thread but I never saw a response from anyone to what Dave S. said about using B-12 on the fuel dist. I'm still troubleshooting some starting issues and I'd like to attempt to clean/soak my fuel dist to see if that helps at all. Here's my thread re that whole ordeal: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11...ouble-starting

[WelmoedJ]

Hey guys. I know this is an old thread but I never saw a response from anyone to what Dave S. said about using B-12 on the fuel dist. I'm still troubleshooting some starting issues and I'd like to attempt to clean/soak my fuel dist to see if that helps at all. Here's my thread re that whole ordeal: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11...ouble-starting

As I do not know B-12 I haven't replied to judge it.

I however can add to my previous entry:
The nut securing the cylinder in place can also cause issues that show up as a very difficult movement of the piston.
This nut shoudl only be tightened enough to ensure a smoothly up and down running piston.
If the piston is stuck try slackening the nut a bit (after releasing the securing washer) and see if that improves the movement.

In some cases I noticed the too tightened nut causing the cylinder to no longer being exactly round and thus hindering the free movement of the piston.

[OverlandMan]

As I do not know B-12 I haven't replied to judge it.

I however can add to my previous entry:
The nut securing the cylinder in place can also cause issues that show up as a very difficult movement of the piston.
This nut shoudl only be tightened enough to ensure a smoothly up and down running piston.
If the piston is stuck try slackening the nut a bit (after releasing the securing washer) and see if that improves the movement.

In some cases I noticed the too tightened nut causing the cylinder to no longer being exactly round and thus hindering the free movement of the piston.

Thanks WelmoedJ. I should have been more specific. My piston is fine (to the extent is slides freely in the sleeve). My issue is pertaining to general fuel system starting problems and I thought maybe soaking the fuel dist in a chemical like Berryman's B-12 carb cleaner bath, acetone, or similar might do some good.