Is this the pin that needs to come out

[David T]

Thanks WelmoedJ. I should have been more specific. My piston is fine (to the extent is slides freely in the sleeve). My issue is pertaining to general fuel system starting problems and I thought maybe soaking the fuel dist in a chemical like Berryman's B-12 carb cleaner bath, acetone, or similar might do some good.

I would leave the fuel distributor alone and check the spray pattern and quantity of each fuel injector. You can try a can of Techron in the fuel. Very little to go bad in the fuel distributor. If the piston slides freely and your fuel pressures are good leave the fuel distributor alone.

[OverlandMan]

I would leave the fuel distributor alone and check the spray pattern and quantity of each fuel injector. You can try a can of Techron in the fuel. Very little to go bad in the fuel distributor. If the piston slides freely and your fuel pressures are good leave the fuel distributor alone.

Fuel pattern already checked multiple times as well as volume.

According to Dave S. there are about 20 different ways a fuel dist can fail so I'll argue that point with you.

Seeing as I have to hold the air plate down in order to get it to try and start (other than the brief CSV 1-2 second run time), and seeing as I've already replaced the WUR/CPR, this is my next culprit. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge/kit to test that with but have eliminated a kinked pickup hose in the tank.

• pump and tank components are all new
• accumulator newish (2013)
• fuel filter new

Those are the only components between the gasoline in the tank itself and the fuel dist.

I did have a stuck plunger earlier this year. I was able to get it free; however, that makes me think some other "gunk" may be in the fuel dist potentially causing this issue.

[David T]

Fuel pattern already checked multiple times as well as volume.

According to Dave S. there are about 20 different ways a fuel dist can fail so I'll argue that point with you.

Seeing as I have to hold the air plate down in order to get it to try and start (other than the brief CSV 1-2 second run time), and seeing as I've already replaced the WUR/CPR, this is my next culprit. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge/kit to test that with but have eliminated a kinked pickup hose in the tank.

• pump and tank components are all new
• accumulator newish (2013)
• fuel filter new

Those are the only components between the gasoline in the tank itself and the fuel dist.

I did have a stuck plunger earlier this year. I was able to get it free; however, that makes me think some other "gunk" may be in the fuel dist potentially causing this issue.

Rule out vacuum leaks. If the car ran well previous to this do not touch the mixture screw. Make sure the frequency valve is buzzing. Although the mixture unit can fail, it is rare. Other causes are more likely.

[WelmoedJ]

Fuel pattern already checked multiple times as well as volume.

According to Dave S. there are about 20 different ways a fuel dist can fail so I'll argue that point with you.

Seeing as I have to hold the air plate down in order to get it to try and start (other than the brief CSV 1-2 second run time), and seeing as I've already replaced the WUR/CPR, this is my next culprit. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge/kit to test that with but have eliminated a kinked pickup hose in the tank.

• pump and tank components are all new
• accumulator newish (2013)
• fuel filter new

Those are the only components between the gasoline in the tank itself and the fuel dist.

I did have a stuck plunger earlier this year. I was able to get it free; however, that makes me think some other "gunk" may be in the fuel dist potentially causing this issue.

I agree with Dave S.
Firstly check the injectors.
If you never have exchanged them and the car has been sitting for some - long - time the injectors may have acquired rust (making small pits in the nozzle's wall).
That causes leaking injectors with a bad spray pattern.
It will be clear that a non perfect spray pattern influences all kinds of behavior, including bad start and running.
If you have start problems it's also advisible to check the CSV injector and it's electrical system for proper operation.

Should there be gunk insde the FD chambers, if not totally solved by acetone, the gunk will clogg the screens to the piston.
Then you will have to clean the FD again until the screens are open again.
Mind that the filter screen around the piston also is fragile as the plastic it's contained in, is very brittle after 30+ years of duty.

[bfloyd]

Seeing as I have to hold the air plate down in order to get it to try and start

Same here. I've got to crack the metering plate just a little to get it to start. Once it does, it'll stay running.

[David T]

Same here. I've got to crack the metering plate just a little to get it to start. Once it does, it'll stay running.

Check that the cold start valve is working when starting cold and cranking. Always check for vacuum leaks, they are insidious. All of the rubber is getting old, hard, and brittle. Injector seals are a very common leak as is the "O" ring for the idle motor in the metering unit.