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Thread: Throw out bearing question

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2012

    Location:  Auburn, Alabama

    Posts:    16

    My VIN:    6060

    Throw out bearing question

    Hello, new to the site, and I have this issue that has been a problem since I bought the car. Its an 81 Vin 06060 and it has a squeaking throw out bearing. When you are not pushing in the clutch it is very noisy and loud squeaking. When the clutch is pressed in even an inch or so the noise stops. My first attempt to fix this was about 3 months ago and I had a new clutch, throw out bearing, fork, master and slave cylinders, and steal line installed. After about 2 weeks the noise came back. I am not sure how to go about fixing this. I am not sure if the shop installed something wrong, that I had the luck of having a bad throw out bearing installed, or if I should look some place else for the problem. Thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member Jacko's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Camden, Arkansas

    Posts:    347

    My VIN:    04915

    I was hoping someone would jump on this question with an answer. The exact thing was happening with 4915's throwout bearing which was the one thing that caused me to send her to DPI. I thought the throwout bearing would be completely at rest with the clutch out ... maybe it isn't disengaging completely. I don't know.
    Jack Skeens



  3. #3
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2012

    Location:  Auburn, Alabama

    Posts:    16

    My VIN:    6060

    I am glad that I am not the only one with this problem. I do hope someone can share some insight

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

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    My VIN:    10757 1st place Concourse 1998

    Sounds like an input bearing. I would pull the transmission and open it up. Check all of the bearings on the input shaft and make sure the nuts on the ends are nice and tight. Before even pulling the trans check the oil level. If it is very low put some in and maybe the noise will go away.
    David Teitelbaum

  5. #5
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

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    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    If it is the TOB the actual P/N is SKF 4040. Only PJ Grady sells them separate from the Clutch kits that I know of, if you do indeed need one. Did you replace the Pilot bearing? The pilot bearing only spins when the clutch pedal is pushed IN, which is opposite what you've described.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Jacko's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Camden, Arkansas

    Posts:    347

    My VIN:    04915

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    If it is the TOB the actual P/N is SKF 4040. Only PJ Grady sells them separate from the Clutch kits that I know of, if you do indeed need one. Did you replace the Pilot bearing? The pilot bearing only spins when the clutch pedal is pushed IN, which is opposite what you've described.
    Dennis, do you mean the throwout bearing only spins when the clutch pedal is pushed in? I thought the pilot bearing stayed pretty much static.
    Jack Skeens



  7. #7
    LS1 DMC Nicholas R's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Orlando, Florida

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    My VIN:    01643

    Club(s):   (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Jacko View Post
    Dennis, do you mean the throwout bearing only spins when the clutch pedal is pushed in? I thought the pilot bearing stayed pretty much static.
    The pilot bearing never changes or moves. It is inside the crankshaft and only serves as a support for the end of the transmission input shaft. It is not affected by clutch engagement and disengagement.

    Also, As far as I know, and in all the times I've changed clutches on DeLoreans and other cars, you want the throwout bearing lightly riding on the fingers of the pressure plate, even when disengaged. This holds the throwout bearing in place. If it isnt against the fingers, the throwout bearing and clutch fork have will vibrate and slide around on the input shaft while the clutch is disengaged.

  8. #8
    Junior Member Raphael's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  France

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    My VIN:    706

    I experience the same issue. The fact is the noise isn't related to RPM; it's the same whatever the gear and engine speed. in case you'd ask; YES my TOB is new, the fork pivot is greased and the noise is still there, anf it tends to appear at temperature. and it disappears as soon as I gently press the clutch.
    so it's not a bearing ( I had 2 bad TOB in the car's life and it's definitely different noise, that appears when you depress the clutch.)
    I suspect the clutch fork to vibrate at rest position and squeak. when I lean over the engine or under the car, it sounds like it comes from the above, from the fork area.
    When I keep the fork steady in my hand, the noise stops.
    I tried to attach a spring from the engine bay to the top of the fork but it didn't work.
    So now I plan to attach some sort of rubber bumper. maybe a piece of hose bent in u-shape. I will let you know

  9. #9
    Banned
    Join Date:  Aug 2012

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    Sealed bearings aren't worth 2 cents. You are totally at the mercy of whatever kind of grease, and however little, the nice Chinese people who make them put in. And the rubber seal is not moisture proof (in fact when you regrease them yourself that's how you know they are full -- grease squishes out around the seal).

    Buy a needle tip for your grease gun (smallest diameter possible). End of the tip is cut just like a phlebotomist needle. It will pierce the rubber seal, allow you to inject the bearing full of grease of your choice, then reseal the hole when you pull it back out.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidbrooks View Post
    Sealed bearings aren't worth 2 cents. You are totally at the mercy of whatever kind of grease, and however little, the nice Chinese people who make them put in. And the rubber seal is not moisture proof (in fact when you regrease them yourself that's how you know they are full -- grease squishes out around the seal).

    Buy a needle tip for your grease gun (smallest diameter possible). End of the tip is cut just like a phlebotomist needle. It will pierce the rubber seal, allow you to inject the bearing full of grease of your choice, then reseal the hole when you pull it back out.
    Have you ever done that? As far as I know rubber seals have metal on the back.


    LEVY
    I would work extra hard at whatever I was doing to become so good at it and that I would never have to kiss anyone's fanny to keep my job. And I never have and I never will.

    John Z. De Lorean

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